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Trans and Diff

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skystryd

skystryd

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Simple tasks no doubt. Except for several answers with each being slightly different.
Trans: drain bottom...fill passenger side. visible from engine bay but reachable? 1500's not fillable from the cockpit passenger side under carpet. only from under. square plug...size? Tips? 1500's use the 80-90. Bentley book has the 'data'. I like to get info from real people...the been there, done that approach.
Also since this Spridget is new to me (as are 1500's- others have been A types 1275.) … no idea when or if it was last changed. Comments on 'fill not flush N change'.
Diff similar questions.
Since I tend to write in short bullets I hope I have expanded enough.
Thanks in advance for any time, all efforts and advice.
-chuck
 
I forget the weight of oil but, two things.

1. Yes there is no access to a 1500 plug because they never bothered to change the access holes when they changed the engine to the 1500. IIRC I filled my transmission from the engine bay with a hose attached to the end of the oil bottle - slow but it worked.

2. Diff. It is easy to overfill. Oil will then flow along the axle and contaminate the brakes - don't ask me how I know. Best measure for oil height is the pinky test. If you stick your pinky in the fill hole, you should just be able to touch the oil.
 
Diffy plug can be a bear to find proper fitting "wrench". At least on mine its a 7/16" SQUARE. .. I cut a piece of 7/16" square stock. It fits perfectly into a 3/8" (IIRC) 12 point socket. Welded it in, used a grinder to blunt the corners and Bob's yer Uncle.
 
My 1/2" drive ratchet wrench works perfectly on it's own for the removal and replacement of the drain and fill plugs on a Spridget rear axle housing.

When I fill it, with the car sitting perfectly level I just wait for the oil to stop running out of the fill hole.
 
The Diff on the TR 6 has no drain plug and Owners book says fill as needed. This is why TR 's do not leak they just mark their parking spot. The diff all have a hole on the top some place to release any pressure build up that would add to leaks small with a cotter pin or the such but must be kept clean. As for oils some use motor oils others us straight weight non det. oil 30, 90, or heaver. Filling is the long hose and a pump and the wrench is what you find that works. I have never used any sealant on the plugs to many other leaks what's one more and then you can just add and not change. I would go with if you do not know the car change it ounce. So Welcome some may say I am all wrong but this is your car find your right way. Madflyer
 
Regards engine oils: I'm finishing up a case of Penrite, and then will probably start moving towards Shell Rotella (our diesel uses it; it has plenty of zinc; it's cheap). Non-specialist oils that I believe have adequate zinc are:
Shell Rotella T4 TP 15W-40 zinc = 1454 ppm

Castrol EDGE SAE 5W-50 zinc = 1252 ppm

Mobil 1 15-50 zinc = 1,133 ppm

VR-1 Racing Oil zinc = 1180 ppm
Doug
 
For our 3000 and Bugeye, we use the following other lubes:
gearbox: Redline MT-90-GL4
differential: Redline 75W90 GL-5 gear oil
BE steering rack: Royal Purple Maxgear with Synthetic 75W-140
I've got no particular recollection of why I'm using the Royal Purple for the steering rack; most of the comments here are keen on the cornhead grease. Pick your poison! Doug
 
Cornhead Grease stopped my leaky Rack from Leaking.
 
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