trafficator/control head rebuild

[Roberte]

considering the cost of a new control head assembly for a BJ7 does anyone know where I might get mine rebuilt? My left hand position switch is non functional.

 

[Randy Forbes]

In *most* cases, the unit ceases to function because the works get all gummed up with old oils and greases. The unit can be taken apart and cleaned easily enough, but I should caution you if you decide to do so, as there are several springs, and other little bits that are dying to catapult themselves around your shop.

I've got some pictures of one being disassembled/assembled, but if you absolutely don't want to work on it yourself, I can have a go at it. Unless some of the vital components are damaged beyond use, it'll still be a fair sight less expensive than an entire control unit.

Pictures starting on this album page: https://www.spcarsplus.com/gallery3/index.php/reMKIII/electrical_work

Cleaned and ready to *sparingly* lubricate and assemble:

 

[Patrick67BJ8]

In *most* cases, the unit ceases to function because the works get all gummed up with old oils and greases. The unit can be taken apart and cleaned easily enough, but I should caution you if you decide to do so, as there are several springs, and other little bits that are dying to catapult themselves around your shop.

I've got some pictures of one being disassembled/assembled, but if you absolutely don't want to work on it yourself, I can have a go at it. Unless some of the vital components are damaged beyond use, it'll still be a fair sight less expensive than an entire control unit.

Pictures starting on this album page: https://www.spcarsplus.com/gallery3/index.php/reMKIII/electrical_work

Cleaned and ready to *sparingly* lubricate and assemble:

How did the engine oil get into it?

 

[Healey Nut]

Think of all the years of greasy dirty fingers turning those indicators on and off ,and dirt get into all those liitle cracks n crevisis.. I rebuilt mine . Make sure you have a clean surface and put a light coloured towel or cloth on the surface you are working on . Be ready for some frustration and it will test your patience but it can be done . Take pictures take notes and dont do it if the kids are around , its something you need to have time for .

 

[Bob_Spidell]

Curt Arndt rebuilds them: cnaarndt@gmail.com

 

[andrewss]

Roberte,

Have a look at this link...
https://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/trafficator.html

Is the problem mechanical or possibly electrical. Are the horn and right indicator working ? From experience most problems on a trafficator are electrical and relate to one or more of the wires in the trafficator tube being broken and/or twisted.. Please be a little more precise on the problem and i'm sure someone can save you time and money...

 

[Roberte]

the right turn signals, the running lights and horn work. When checking the flasher for right turn the left and center terminal flashes and the right is lit (with a tester). In the left position the left and right terminal are lit but no flash.

On the flasher relay in left position #1 and 8 are lit, in right position #8 is lit and #7, 1, and 6 flash.

 

[andrewss]

Roberto,

Start from the front and work back... Check the bulb in the front left indicator... if its not that check the trafficator cable connections to the main wiring harness located behind and under the the radiator (often attached to the cross arms (X shape) located behind the radiator).... if its not that next step take out the flasher relay on the left hand side of the engine bay hidden slightly by the conduit tube for the fresh air... Check for faulty connections.... if its not that open up the relay and check for corrosion of the tabs inside..... if its not that next step is to follow the guidelines posted in my response and check for twisting in the cable in the trafficator tube.... if its not that check the connection of the wires on the turn signal unit.... check the continuity between the green/yellow wire on the trafficator and the right hand bulb wire connection..... if ALL that fails then its a mechanical problem and follow Randy Forbes advice... Good luck

 

[andrewss]

sorry meant left hand bulb wire connection...

 

[esussman]

I too have a "sticky" trafficator. Signals work when engaged but either side often does not return to center after a turn. Is there an easy fix or do I have to break down the entire assembly?

Thanks,

Eric

 

[57_BN4]

Eric- that is a fairly common situation where it works fine and cancels the flashing light ok but doesn't return the lever to the centre click position fully. That's what mine does about half of the time.

The two tiny cancelling pegs that stick out are made of some sort of zinc/pot metal (see Randy's third pic) and the angled tips wear down so they can no longer push the lever all the way back to centre. The rotating plate they strike against to cancel (not shown in Randy's pics) also wears and can be bent a very small amount to compensate but that isn't entirely successful as it is almost touching the bakelite parts anyway.

The second problem is that the lever is supported by a bakelite bearing surface on both sides, the top in the big cover section and the bottom in the terminal block section and these wear which allows the lever arm to rub against the cover section. This increases the friction and makes it harder for the little pegs to return it to the centre.

I tried building up the back of a spare cancel peg with zinc filler rod which worked to make it cancel but now the peg sticks out enough to make a click sound each turn of the wheel. Next test is to try building up the worn front angled part of the cancel peg (the back was easier as it is flat) which I'll try this week.

Today I'm going to lathe out the worn centre bearing and make up a bushing out of plastic to reclaim the switch block which will centralise the lever again.

Andy.

[edit]
You can see the centre hole is worn oval in this pic, that is what I'll be reclaiming today