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The trafficator cancelling ring in our BN7 (adjustable steering wheel) is not fixed to it's short upper portion of the stator tube. In other words, you can rotate it around the stator tube. It appears as though someone attempted to weld it in place, presumeably to prevent it from rotating. Not sure why. The electrical system works fine. But mechanically it's unreliable. Sometimes it won't cancel and you have to do it manually. Other times you can't get the trafficator to budge (rotating the steering wheel back and forth a few times corrects this problem). Yet before we reinstalled it after the rebuild we could get it to cancel just fine. What's going on in there?
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Trafficator cancelling ring question
- Thread starter Brakin80
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Keoke
Great Pumpkin
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Brakin80, remove the short upper section with the trafficator head. Look at it carefully and see if it has a well shaped bump on it that forms a keyway. Now using a good light look inside the steering tube at the remaining stator tube section and see if you can see a slot in the tube, when the keyway on the short upper section is properly located in the slot the two parts should be locked inplace. If the inner tube appears flared or split that can be your problem. Note; you may have to remove the inner tube to check its condition,if so do not forget to drain the steering box of its oil after the wiring has been removed.If all checks out OK make sure the slot is located a the 12:00 oclock position[wheels pointing straight forward] prior to mating the two parts-FWIW---Keoke
Keoke - in rebuilding the trafficator we also installed a new long section of stator tube. The fit between the long and short sections is good. So everything is good from there down. Back to my original question though, should the cancelling ring be fixed to the short stator tube, or should it rotate freely around it? Also, about the three tap screws on the steering wheel that hold the trafficator in place. How tight should they be, and do they serve any other purpose besides keeping the trafficator assembly from being pulled straight out of the wheel?
Keoke
Great Pumpkin
Offline
Brakin80
First the three tap screws should center the trafficator assy in the hub and be very tight.Then the short tube will function correctly. I replaced those three tap screws with ones having bristol/allen heads because those little slotted buggers break or scar up the wheel trying to tighten them. The pawl on the cancellation ring must be centered between the two cancellation pins and resides at the 6:00 oclock position in the hub. Then the cancellation ring and its pawl will move with the steering wheel.---Keoke
First the three tap screws should center the trafficator assy in the hub and be very tight.Then the short tube will function correctly. I replaced those three tap screws with ones having bristol/allen heads because those little slotted buggers break or scar up the wheel trying to tighten them. The pawl on the cancellation ring must be centered between the two cancellation pins and resides at the 6:00 oclock position in the hub. Then the cancellation ring and its pawl will move with the steering wheel.---Keoke