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TR6 TR6 trailing arm stud upgrade?
- Thread starter ichthos
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T
Tinster
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BobbyD-
I kinda got lost in this thread.
Is your process to be used AFTER helicoils have pulled out?
Or AFTER the 5/16" fine thread T/A studs have pulled out?
Or is this a new process to be used with factory 5/16"
still in place and nothing stripped out or ruined?
The circular plate in your final "how to" photo-
is that the finished T/A upgrade plate ? If not, do
you have a photo of an upgraged T/A, in place,
in the car you could post.
I was told that once my helicoils had all stripped out
that the T/A was then useless and to trashcan it. I did.
But I was real tempted to thrubolt it.
Thanks
I kinda got lost in this thread.
Is your process to be used AFTER helicoils have pulled out?
Or AFTER the 5/16" fine thread T/A studs have pulled out?
Or is this a new process to be used with factory 5/16"
still in place and nothing stripped out or ruined?
The circular plate in your final "how to" photo-
is that the finished T/A upgrade plate ? If not, do
you have a photo of an upgraged T/A, in place,
in the car you could post.
I was told that once my helicoils had all stripped out
that the T/A was then useless and to trashcan it. I did.
But I was real tempted to thrubolt it.
Thanks
Brosky
Great Pumpkin
Offline
That will probably be the final look of the plate Dale, but this is still in development. I'm sure that Bobby will post some pictures of his completed T/A's soon, since it's going to rain for the next two days and you don't need a snowblower in the rain.
Of course he'll probably have some lame excuse like Christmas or some holiday getting in the way, but Bill and I are still optimistic about seeing the tools from Rick by March.
I suppose you could sat that this will work with the KeenSerts as long as the hole(s) has not gone beyond the .397" diameter that the "X" drill makes for the tapping of the 7/16" threads.
Of course he'll probably have some lame excuse like Christmas or some holiday getting in the way, but Bill and I are still optimistic about seeing the tools from Rick by March.
I suppose you could sat that this will work with the KeenSerts as long as the hole(s) has not gone beyond the .397" diameter that the "X" drill makes for the tapping of the 7/16" threads.
BobbyD
Jedi Knight
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Dale..... this process is for use after the Heli-coils have pulled, the wheel has flown off..........taking out a number of innocent by-standers........and the memorial service has been held for those riding in the car. Pedro will use this kit to repair the car for the next innocent victum and resell it at a substantial profit. Ho Ho Ho.........Santa is watching.
Paul ..... my excuse is that my 85 & 87 year old in-laws have invited a friend to Xmas eve dinner at our house who doesn't eat seafood.........after I've, yes me. has bought and prepared the seafood dinner. So tomorrow morning, I'm off to Stop & Shop for more F@#&ing food! I love my in-laws.
Merry Christmas everyone!
Paul ..... my excuse is that my 85 & 87 year old in-laws have invited a friend to Xmas eve dinner at our house who doesn't eat seafood.........after I've, yes me. has bought and prepared the seafood dinner. So tomorrow morning, I'm off to Stop & Shop for more F@#&ing food! I love my in-laws.
Merry Christmas everyone!
crj7driver
Jedi Trainee
Offline
I finally talked myself into purchasing one as well. The further I go in this project the more I find I need to reinforce or theoretically make better. That along with the 300+ RWHP I am throwing at this thing has me doing a lot of "just to be one the safe side measures". Now if I can assemble this thing with my eyes closed I might not see anything else that needs a "little improving".
T
Tinster
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BobbyD-
I am wondering if your upgrade will increase the shear values as well.
My helicoils not only pulled out of the aluminum T/A
and stripped the threads; there was also some shear
failure of the aluminum that broke off chunks of the aluminum.
I still take road bends like an old lady for fear
I'll have another rear wheel pop off.
d
I am wondering if your upgrade will increase the shear values as well.
My helicoils not only pulled out of the aluminum T/A
and stripped the threads; there was also some shear
failure of the aluminum that broke off chunks of the aluminum.
I still take road bends like an old lady for fear
I'll have another rear wheel pop off.
d
Brosky
Great Pumpkin
Offline
Dale,
I would think that putting a locking steel insert into the aluminum casting with the coarse threads can only help the original design, but without some sort of a full blown stress analysis, we'd only be guessing, right? They company claims that you can shear off a grade 8 bolt in the insert without having it move from it's locked in position, so it's really all we have to go on.
How would you go about actually measuring that value without having a fully destructive test of the insert and the affected area? Or is there a way to do it in a non destructive process?
I would think that putting a locking steel insert into the aluminum casting with the coarse threads can only help the original design, but without some sort of a full blown stress analysis, we'd only be guessing, right? They company claims that you can shear off a grade 8 bolt in the insert without having it move from it's locked in position, so it's really all we have to go on.
How would you go about actually measuring that value without having a fully destructive test of the insert and the affected area? Or is there a way to do it in a non destructive process?
T
Tinster
Guest
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Paul, as T/A stud...........destructive test, I'm afraid.
It's like a steel telephone pole sunk into the earth.
The taller the pole, the deeper it must be sunk
or a huge mass of concrete poured as a footing.
Tie a steel cable to the top of the telephone pole,
hook the other end it to a D-10 Cat and a strain
gauge and pull. You are attempting to "overturn"
the pole.
The T/A aluminum is like the soil- softer than the steel.
In theory, a wider/taller T/A steel stud requires addition
depth sunk into the aluminum for overturn moment.
In hundreds of field "pull" tests, I always got much higher
results from finer threads. Wood, steel aluminum, concrete,
brick- it did not seem to matter. The finer threads were
always more difficult to "pull" to failure.
just my 2 cents on pull testing,
d
d
It's like a steel telephone pole sunk into the earth.
The taller the pole, the deeper it must be sunk
or a huge mass of concrete poured as a footing.
Tie a steel cable to the top of the telephone pole,
hook the other end it to a D-10 Cat and a strain
gauge and pull. You are attempting to "overturn"
the pole.
The T/A aluminum is like the soil- softer than the steel.
In theory, a wider/taller T/A steel stud requires addition
depth sunk into the aluminum for overturn moment.
In hundreds of field "pull" tests, I always got much higher
results from finer threads. Wood, steel aluminum, concrete,
brick- it did not seem to matter. The finer threads were
always more difficult to "pull" to failure.
just my 2 cents on pull testing,
d
d