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TR6 TR6 Oil Folter Removal

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fwtexasbj8

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I bought my wife a TR6 for Christmas last year and while I was changing the oil in my Healey yesterday, thought I would just take care of hers as well. What a pain and mess!

How do you get the dang filter cannister out??? It will not fit between the engine and frame from the bottom and is locked in by the fuel pump & filter, the distributor and what I suspect is the oil pressure line into the block. I have searched the forum and found lots of posts ablut converting to a spin on filter, which will be in the mail before I do that job again, but cannot see how to get it out to convert. Am I just stupid and missing something? Also, the Crosslands filter I installed was slightly different than the one I removed. The new one had one end closed with a perforated cover. I installed it on the engine side, but now am questioning that decision. Has anyone seen a filter like that and does it matter which way it is installed?

Thanks for your help,
Doug
 
It is a problem with LHD TR6's. I loosened the drive shaft; others remove the clutch slave.
If you just want to clean the sludge out the can, I'd work around it, but if you need to replace the seal around the bolt or better yet, replace it with a Mocal spin on adaptor then it needs to be removed
 
Steering shaft PB? :smile:

Cheers,
Tush
 
I used the original style filter for many years and was always able to remove it without moving anything else. It made a mess of the garage floor, but you just wipe it up. If I remember correctly you loosen the bolt to remove the can and then pull the can with the bolt still in it up and to the back of the car. Then the filter can drop out the bottom. With the filter out of the can you should be able to rotate the can up so you can clean it out. Remember to get a small hook and remove the o-ring that is in the block and replace with the new one.
 
"Steering shaft PB? "


:thankyousign: :crazy: Right. Steering shaft and not even all the way, just one bolt at the rubber coupling and swiveled it on the other looseed bolt.
 
poolboy said:
It is a problem with LHD TR6's. I loosened the drive shaft; others remove the clutch slave.
If you just want to clean the sludge out the can, I'd work around it, but if you need to replace the seal around the bolt or better yet, replace it with a Mocal spin on adaptor then it needs to be removed
Click to expand...

Poolboy... I too stilll have the original oil filter can. Can you supply a model number for the Mocal spin on? Where does it mount? Pics?
BTW, I had my drive shaft halfway out before I saw your correction :whistle:
 
grin.gif
You was kidding right ?
I got the Mocal spin on adaptor from British Parts Northwest.
It's the improved version according to their description.
It just replaces the canister as far as location, but just about everyone that I'm aware of installs it twisted slightly so the bottom of the actual filter does not touch the clutch slave cylinder.
Somewhere between 7 & 8 o'clock seems to do it.
As far as which filter, the NAPA Gold 1516 has a lot of followers and I use it most of the time, but I do like the Bosch filter that is the crossover part # for the NAPA.
Just as important as getting the old seal out of the block with the cannister is getting it out for the spin on adaptor as it seals in the same channel as the canister does.
 
Yes PB... I was just kidding :cheers:
I have yet to change my oil. This is only the second season I've had my car on the road. I had it changed at the end of last season by a garage. I hear it is a messy proposition to change without the spin-on adaptor. I will have to add that to my wish list!
Thanks for the info.
 
It's not that bad - don't remove the canister from
the car,just deal with it in the engine compartment.
There's also a hole in the fender to line up the
on the end of the canister with a socket.

- Doug
 
Doug,

As an FYI, not all 6's have that hole.

Cheers,
Tush
 
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