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TR6 TR6 not running

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bigbadbluetr6

bigbadbluetr6

Jedi Trainee
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Hey,
The other day I went to WalMart and came out and my car wouldn't run. Push started it and then it ran and then started to run real bad. Had to push start it 4 times and didn't even make it home 1.5 miles. Replaced the starter solenoid and still couldn't get the car to start. The solenoid had power but wouldn't turn over the starter. I got a starter from my friend and still not starting. What would cause my car to not start? It was running fine before it started acting up. Thanks for the help.
Eric
 
When in gear, while pushing the car, does the engine feel tighter than it was before having the problem?
What is the history of the engine? Recent rebuild or tired, somewhere in between?
Any noises or other symptoms when runs?
Has there been any work done to the engine recently?
Are the connections clean from the battery to the starter?
Any other information you can provide would be helpful.
 
What happens when you turn the key to the run position? Clicking, grinding, nothing? I just had a starter fail and the tests I did are in the 2nd paragraph here https://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/Starter.htm
When you took your old starter out, did you connect your battery to it to see if the starter gear popped up and spun? We need more info to help you out.
 
Well if it's dying when running, then the starter's obviously not the (biggest) problem...

Just a matter of starting at the beginning. Gas, compression, timing and spark.
 
Eric....
We need more info, in fact we're starving for it.
Is the engine tight/seized?
Is the starter engaging the ring gear and not turning it over?
Is it just all dead, no sounds at all?
 
...has the vehicle been driven in Puerto Rico?
 
I had a battery that went completely dead while I was driving once. The engine would stop unless you kept it above idle (it was running on the alternator).
 
It could be a bad alternator, that killed the battery. Thus, not enough voltage to make the ignition system spark the plugs.
 
Get a voltmeter if you don't already have one, and troubleshoot the starter problem rather than just replacing components.

One of these will do just fine :
https://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=90899
(I recommend that all old car owners keep one with them, for those inevitable roadside tech sessions.)

Start at the battery, what's it's voltage ? Should be around 12.6 with the engine not running; if it's much lower than that then the battery may be run down. If so, charge it and repeat the test.

Flip on the headlights and check it again. If it droops more than 0.1 volt, the battery is discharged or defective. Have it tested at your local car parts place (WalMart will do it).
 
Sorry guys i've been out of town for the last couple of days visiting family.
the engine is old. i've had the head plained and shorter pushrods and that is it.
I just hooked up a new battery and and the starter is starting to click. what does that mean?
i turned the lights on and then the ignition and the same click. ?????
thanks guys
eric
 
I'd check things in this order....

1)Battery, sub in a fresh or known good charged one

2)Take a booster cable direct from battery +ve to the big connection wire/nut on the starter and see if it turns over, caution, pull the HT wire out of the coil so it won't start and make darn sure it's out of gear!

3)Starter, pull it and bench test it, make sure it turns under power and that the pinion shoots out and back in, use a multimeter to check for shorts and opens in the windings.

I'm sure it will be one of these things, if you've still got problems then it could be ignition switch/wiring.

The click you are hearing is the solenoid inside the starter doing it's thing, which likely means the battery is knackered or the solenoid switch is defunct.
 
the only advise I can offer is check the simple things first and take the battery to like auto zone and have it checked, I charged a battery every day for a month. switched out a starter, finally had the battery checked and it was bad. It was a spiral cell battery and I was told if they discharge really low they dont come back like a lead acid battery. but was also told the newer spiral cells do recover, guess I bought a first generation.
 
Well I got the car running. I didn't have a good ground. I didn't realize that was one of the first few posts. My car now starts but only runs for a period of time and then dies. What is causing this? Thanks Eric
 
Eric what ever you did recently to the distributor should be re-checked.Does it still have spark when it quits???
MD(mad dog)
 
Eric: Does it start running ratty before it dies, or does it just shut off like you turned the ignition off?

Are you running it on the first battery, or the repacement "good" battery?

When it dies, will it restart?
If so, then what happens?
If not, do you hear the solenoid click in?
Have you measured the battery voltage when it dies?

Do you get any warning in the way of an alternator light?

Have you tried changing the distributor rotor and the condenser, since these are notorious problem components lately?

Keep us posted on symptoms.
Good luck

Tom
 
Tom,
I have to use the choke to get it started. It runs fine on choke then I take the choke off and then it starts running normal and then kinda struggles to run and then dies. After a few starts just like described I still have to use the choke to get it started where it should just start right up without the choke.

I have got a replacement battery so that is no worry.

It will restart after dying but I need to use the choke.

I don't have my dash done so there isn't really any lights that work.

I haven't replaced the rotor which is kinda old and could be bad. I don't think I should have to replace the condenser because I'm running petronix. I guess it could go bad.

My dad might think it is a carb issue and not getting gas. I don't really know if that could be an issue.

Could it be a bad fuel filter?
Eric
 
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