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TR6 TR6 Distributor problem...........................

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veale001

veale001

Senior Member
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I was messing with the timing and I ran into a problem. Bare with me, my vocabulary is limited. :crazy:

If I am looking at the distributor from the driver side of the car (US) at the bolt at the 1 to 2 o'clock position of the dist. near the block, hope you can follow that, it will not tighten anymore?! It is what I believed you loosened to advance or retard the timing from the distributor? Was I wrong?

I pulled the bolt and cleaned the threading and it still will not tighten!? Is it somehow striped on the female side?!

What is the deal? Anyone had this problem and hopefully found a solution?

Thanks in advance,
W
 
If I understand you, the thread appears to be striped in the mounting point for the distributor? Was it properly tight when you removed it?
 
Re: TR6 Distributor problem.......................

W,

It sounds like you are doing this correctly, but let's see if this will help.

The bolt that goes through the clamp around the distributor base needs to be loosened to allow the distributor to move freely. It should NOT be over tightened to lock it down or it may distort the housing.

The clamp is the part at the bottom of this distributor with the bolt through it and one bolt hole in it to hold it down to the block securely.

Does this help you?

newengine 177 (Small).jpg
 
Re: TR6 Distributor problem.......................

Warren,

Now that I've re-read your post, you may have stripped threads in this part that fits below the distributor. The hold down bolt for the distributor clamp would go in the right rear hole in this picture. I'm pretty sure that you can rotate it 180 degrees and use the threads on the opposite side to hold the clamp down correctly.

You will have to carefully mark the position of the rotor to insure that you replace the distributor in the proper position.

newengine 306 (Small).jpg
 
Re: TR6 Distributor problem.......................

Thanks Paul.

The hole on the right in the second picture is what I was refering to. You think I can rotate the distributor 180 degrees?

Thanks again
w
 
Re: TR6 Distributor problem.......................

A better solution IMO would be to take the part to a local machine shop and have them install a Helicoil for you.
 
Re: TR6 Distributor problem.......................

Warren,

I did not make make myself clear and I apologize. That metal part or what I will now call the base plate, that you are referring to above, is what I thought could be rotated 180 degrees, not the distributor.

Also, as Randall states, the same base plate could be removed and a heli-coil installed if you wish.

Please note that there are gaskets under that base plate that determine the height of it in relation to the block and gear down below and they must be replaced with the exact same thickness replacements, or carefully removed so as to be able to be reused when you reinstall the plate again.
 
Re: TR6 Distributor problem.......................

Thanks again. I was scratching my head at first.
 
Re: TR6 Distributor problem.......................

Of all the material I try to digest, I can't find the easiest way to find TDC, or for that matter ATDC? I know this is the ultimate dumbass question.

Does anyone have a link on the proper technique. Like the distributor, I am retarded.
 
Re: TR6 Distributor problem.......................

Are you trying to find the exact mark for TDC, or the top of the compression stroke (so your distributor is not 180 degrees out)?

About 40 years of doing this in shops, remove all plugs.
Either a remote starter or if your solenoid has a button to engage use that.
Ignition OFF.

Place finger over (not into) #1 plug hole, and crank.
When it goes "POOF!" and pops your finger up off the hole, IMMEDIATELY release the starter.

Look at you timing marks, and you should be very close.
Depending on how fast you react (and I would suggest you do this several times), with crank roll-on, you may have passed the mark a bit, and have to roll crank backwards a bit to fully align marks.

You will learn as soon as you feel pressure coming up, release button, and the marks will be VERY close.

If you are trying to determine if the marks are dead-on TDC, that is a little more difficult, but not that hard, and does NOT require removing valve cover, head, timing cover or any other such nonsense.

Dave
 
Re: TR6 Distributor problem.......................

thank you sooo much for taking the time to help me.
 
Re: TR6 Distributor problem.......................

You'll probably see 2 notches on the perimeter of the crankshft pulley.
When you line the one on the left (as you face the windshield) up with the pointer on the timing chain cover, both the #1 and the # 6 piston will be at TDC. However that's not good enough; you want #1 not only to be at TDC, but also in the firing position which means both the intake and exhaust valves are closed.
I'd take the valve cover off and see that they are. There should be a .010 clearence between the valve stem head and the rocker arm when the valves are closed
If the #1 piston is not in this position, rotate the engine until the notch and the pointer line up again and that should be TDC for #1 in firing position.
 
Re: TR6 Distributor problem.......................

veale001 said:
Like the distributor, I am retarded.
Click to expand...

HAHA! Thats great! I'm going to quote this!
 
Re: TR6 Distributor problem.......................

Oh, I nearly forgot.

Welcome to the forum Warren.
 
Re: TR6 Distributor problem.......................

Thanks Paul.

Guys what is the easiest/best way to advance the crankshaft to line up the notches? Do I have to loosen the bolt on the other side of the fan to rotate the crankshaft?
 
Re: TR6 Distributor problem.......................

I used to just grab a fan blade and pull it. When all the spark plugs are in there's a lot of compression to deal with. so pull hard. The fan blades are kind a sharp, so you might wear a glove or have a rag around the blade.
There's other ways, probably better, like putting a socket or wrench on the alternator's fan/pulley nut and turning the engine with the fan belt.
Taking some or all of the spark plugs out really does make turning the engine easier.
Since this is your first attempt, you might go that route to make it easy as possible.

I forgot to mention that the transmissiom is in NEUTRAL.
 
Re: TR6 Distributor problem.......................

NEUTRAL!!! That's whats been holding me up! Thank you soo much for your time.

:cheers:
w
 
Re: TR6 Distributor problem.......................

veale001 said:
NEUTRAL!!! That's whats been holding me up! Thank you soo much for your time.

:cheers:
w
Click to expand...

Actually, 4th gear is even better. Just roll the whole car and the engine will turn turn over. Just grab onto the front wheel and give it a good turn. That way you can easily take a look at the engine and see if you need to go a bit further.
 
Re: TR6 Distributor problem.......................

:iagree: Plugs out, fourth gear, roll it forward SLOWLY and line up the marks. Turning by hand use poolboy's suggestion of a glove or other padding on the fan blade. Sometimes putting a bit of pressure on the belt between pulleys will help keep the fan pulley from slipping, too.
 
Re: TR6 Distributor problem.......................

I never think about the 4th gear roll because I work on the gravel driveway most of the time, but if you got a slab to roll on, go for it.
 
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