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TR6 TR6 Differential Inner Shaft Seals

Aeroken

Senior Member
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In the process of preparing my TR6 for the diff mount repair, I found the differential seals leaking pretty significantly. After careful consideration (and determining that I have an early model diff with the solid spacer), I was able to fairly easily replace the pinion seal.

Now I'm going after the inner shaft seals. The shaft assembly came off the diff pretty easily and I removed the big nyloc nut and washer, but the drive flange won't let go of the shaft. I've tried heat and "gentle percussive persuasion", but it won't come off. Is a press typically needed to do this (Bentley just says "withdraw the flange, key, and oil seal), or should I just soak it in penetrant and try again?

Ken
 

swift6

Yoda
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Don't you just love it when the Bentley makes something sound so easy. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif

You need a press and some not so gentle hydraulic persuasion.

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
 

trboost

Jedi Trainee
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Ken,

There's no way you can seperate the axle from the flange by hand or puller. You need to bring it to a shop with a 20 ton press. Make sure they support the flange properly or it will distort.
To assemble you only need to slide together & torque the nut to spec.
 
OP
Aeroken

Aeroken

Senior Member
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Thanks for the advice! I initially thought a press would be required but Bentley led me down the easy path so I tried anyway. Also, what is the torque spec for the nut? Bentley does not list one.

Thanks again!
Ken
 

TR6oldtimer

Darth Vader
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I'm in the process of doing this as well. First go to a really good machine shop. Otherwise you will be looking for a replacement hub.

Bently on pg 06.3 sets the torque for a 5/8 nf bolt at 90-120

While I'm at it, I will be replacing the the axle bearing.

Any comments on a good supplier? The better known TR parts houses price these bearings from 29-75 dollars. The $75 is for
SKF or NTN. The lower priced bearings do not have a listed manufacturer.
 
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Aeroken

Aeroken

Senior Member
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The machine shop did the trick although his quote was "man, that was hard!". When it did not initially come right off, he even pulled a Bentley manual from the shelf and verified the procedure! The flange is not distorted and he even cleaned everything up nicely.

Anyway, I put everything back together tonight and no leaks so far. I did notice that there seems to be a slightly larger gap (maybe 1/16 or slightly more) between seal housing and the flange "stone guard" on the one side I've done. I measured from the housing to the flange on both sides and it is virtually identical. The slight step under the washer (between the shaft and the flange) looks the same as before and the same number of threads are showing outside of the nut so the flange seems to have gone back on the shaft OK. I did not disturb the bearing on the shaft so that spacing didn't change. Should I be worried about crud getting in there if I run it as it is or is there something else I should do?

Also, thanks for the tip on the torque chart up front in the Bentley manual, I'd never noticed that. I just saw the random torque listings in some procedures.

Thanks again!

Ken
 

TR6oldtimer

Darth Vader
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I have almost completed reassembling the rear inner axle and noticed the same increase in the gap between the hub and oil seal flange. I too was worried about this, but not from getting junk into the gap but concerned about the seal riding on a sufficient amount of the hub to do it's job. I determined the seal did have enough metal to ride on, so I was going to let it go. After your post, I took quick look at the axles on a TR250 dif I have and it was immediately apparent to me as to what was the problem. Seems they did not seat the bearing all the way down on the axle shaft. There is about a 1/16 inch gab between the bearing and the seat. As there is minimal wear on the hub, I will be tapping the bearing back out toward the hub to close the gap.

Oh, by the way, the question on $30 vs. $75 bearings was settled to my satisfaction. I bought the $30 bearings, which turned out to be made in England by RHP, a British company formed by the union of three bearing mfg's including Hoffmann, the original maker of the axle bearings.
 
OP
Aeroken

Aeroken

Senior Member
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I was initially concerned about where the seal was riding also, but I double checked and it seems fine. The bearing is properly positioned and was not disturbed. I think what happened is the that the stone guard got bent towards the flange during the press work because it looks much flatter than the un-worked side. That is the only thing that looks really different between the two sides. I was able to bend it back towards the seal and it looks quite a bit better now, but it appears that part of the tack weld that holds it on has broken loose. While I usually hate JB Weld, this seems like it might be a good place to use a bit to make sure the stone guard stays secure and can't foul the seal/housing. Thoughts?

Ken
 

TR6oldtimer

Darth Vader
Offline
Ken,
The shaft does not rotate at a high rpm, nor is there any stress, but I would take it in and have it welded or brazed for peace of mind. The machine shop I use has the necessary equipment for light welding or brazing jobs. You might want to check with your shop, after all they bent it, to see if they can do it before going to a welding shop. A little humble pie on their part might save you a couple of bucks.

Noelan
 
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