• Hey Guest!
    British Car Forum has been supporting enthusiasts for over 25 years by providing a great place to share our love for British cars. You can support our efforts by upgrading your membership for less than the dues of most car clubs. There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Upgraded members don't see this banner, nor will you see the Google ads that appear on the site.)
Tips
Tips

TR6 TR6 Crank Turning for Timing/Retard Unit

Share this page

Cain

Cain

Jedi Trainee
Offline
I'm trying to set the timing on my TR6. What's the easiest way to turn the crank when doing static timing? The first time I set it, I didn't have the fan on the engine yet and I could turn the crank with a wrench. I really don't want to remove the fan to do that again. I thought about putting the car in gear and rolling it, but it's only me and I don't want it to get away from me.

A question about the retard unit. I assume this is the thing on the right side of the distributor with the vacuum hose on it. (I have a late '71 TR6 distributor number 41352 so it has a retard unit, but no vacuum advance.) If the retard unit is not hooked up to the carb, will this increase the idle RPM? I've never had the vacuum hose hooked up to the carb because the hose fitting to hook to the carb is non-existant - the hose burned in half before I got the car. The only way I've found to be able to keep my car going is with a high idle (around 1300 RPM),and I wonder that if the vacuum hose was hooked up correctly that the idle wouldn't be so high.

I need to get a new vacuum hose for the retard unit, but when I do where does it hook to the carb? (I have stock dual ZS carbs.) I don't see where a hose fitting would fit on the carb. Also, do I hook it to the front carb or the rear carb?

While I'm at it, what is centrifugal advance? I assume that this is timing advance that occurs when the distributor is in operation. The faster it spins, the further it advances.

Thanks for your help.
 
The retard hooks into a fitting underneath the carb closest to the firewall (at least it does on my 73). I had the same melted pipe issue, and a few absent rubber connectors too.

Moss sell all the bits - as probably do the other two. I hooked it up via the thermostatic valve on the top of the rad and noticed no difference whatsoever, hot or cold, so I'm sure I messed something up. Mine will idle at 850 though...
 
Cain,
Most 71's had a double bellows distributor, vacumn advance and retard. Your distributor may have been changed out or indeed TR may have done a transition late in 71. Whatever. Why not go straight centrifugal advance by turning your distributor base so that the timing is set at 8 degrees BFTDC at 1000 rpm (using a timing light) and plug up any holes in your carbs that suck air while running.
I think you will find the car runs well enough like this. You can leave the bellows unplugged if you like or cap it off for neatness. There is probably some vacumn coming off your intake that runs the pollution stuff and your power brakes.


Bill
 
I appreciate your responses and ideas. Actually, my main concern is how to turn the crank pulley for static timing - or so that I can at least set the distributor correctly when I reinstall it.

Thanks
 
Hello Cain,
when I had the fan on the crank, (I just have an electric fan now) I would use that to turn the engine over (plugs out). To make it easier I would jog the engine on the starter first and fine position it with the fan
 
If you can't get enough leverage on the fan, or the belt slips, put the transmission in top gear, grab a front wheel & roll the car forward. Lot more leverage this way than trying to push the car. Actually very easy to control & you can watch the timing while jogging it. I used to think that this was silly until I tried it.
D
 
Cain: I have used the method that Dave describes for years (decades!) and it is really very easy. You can roll it forward or back, it won't matter since its not running. No need to remove the plugs either, although you may have to rock it a time or two to catch the point you want. Works great for valve adjustment too.
 
It is easy to leave the ignition switch on when setting the timing; BE Sure THE HIGH VOLTAGE LEAD FROM THE DIZZY IS UNPLUGED WHEN YOU ROCK THE CAR!
 
Thanks for all those that replied. Actually I ended up using piman's method. I didn't see the other responses until tonight.

I've owned this car a couple of years - most of that time it's been in the garage on jack stands. I have only recently got it out on the road, and I figured it was due a good timing adjustment. Also, I plan on tuning the carbs soon and I wanted to make sure that the timing was correct prior to touching the carbs.

I removed the distributor last night just to check and oil everything. Once I got everything back in place I ended up doing dynamic timing with a timing light and got the car idling at spec (4 degrees BTDC at 850 RPM). The car ran better than it ever has.

I ended up taking it over to the local LBC shop - he was having a workshop for local MG owners. I hung out there for an hour and when I went to start my TR6 it wouldn't start. At first, I figured it was something I had done with the timing, but with the help of three other guys (including Kurtis from this forum) we determined it was a fuel delivery problem. The fuel filter was clogged so I changed it and we blew out the fuel lines with compressed air. Anyway, we got it going and I drove it home with no problems. But, I'll need to reset the distributor again because I advanced it at the shop thinking that was the problem.

It was ironic because I've never had a problem starting the car. But, wouldn't you know it happens in front of all these guys at the LBC shop. Then again - what place would I rather it happen with all the help and knowledge around.
 
Back
Top