TR6 TR6 clutch line Q

[mrv8q]

There should be a metal washer and a circlip, in the mouth of the MC, to trap the pushrod against the piston.

Hmmph! Well, how did I miss that! My thanks, Randall! Are you going to the Woodley Park show next Saturday?

 

[davidk]

My '74 TR-6 does not have the circlip. If the pushrod is disconnected, the plunger can push right out.

 

[davidk]

Re-read the post. No circlip on the slave cylinder. Not sure about the master cylinder.

 

[TR3driver]

Right. No circlip on the slave.

I probably won't make Woodley, but anything is possible.

 

[mrv8q]

No circlip on the slave cylinder. Not sure about the master cylinder.

Yep, there's a circlip on the Master Cylinder.... After assembling everything, put it in last, not knowing about the pushrod having to be part of the assembly. That's what I get for following the dissasembly of the DPO's work.... D'oh!

BTW, the slaves pushrod is considerably longer, and there's no "mushroom" at the end of it. Rebuilding that is another on the list to do.....

 

[mrv8q]

Redid my clutch master cylinder today, following Randall's advice. Next time, I'll check the Bentley first, and not follow the DPO:

FWIW, next time I'll attach the clutch line to the master cylinder, and tighten it relatively tight, as opposed to mounting the M/C first, and then the clutch line. Hard to tighten the nut that way, w/ the brake servo in the way, even w/ flare wrenches. Once I saw how it all was routed, the former approach will be easier, as it allows getting a good snug fit on M/C line. This way though, the top bolt must be fitted, before the clutch line, as so:

Off for a spirited drive tomorrow in "Brownie"

 

[Brosky]

You need what is called a "crows foot wrench" attached to an extension bar to get down in there and tighten that easily. Otherwise, it can be a pain unless you have flare nut wrenches with the correct offset angle.