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TR6 TR6 clutch bleeding woes

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tdskip

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OK - here is the situation

1) Rebuilt clutch MC, pretty sure I did it correctly
2) Existing clutch slave, which was working fine
3) I tried gravity bleeding, no dice
4) I tried convention bleeding, no dice
5) So I ordered up some speed bleeders. Wife misfiled those, so just found them this AM :smile:

Installed the speed bleeder this AM and, no dice.

Slave has resistance, I disconnected the clevis and when you push in on the rod it will push back out on it own.

Clutch MC fluid level will rise and fall when you press the clutch pedal, but when you do that the slave doesn't move at all.

I'm not getting fluid flowing through the speed bleeder at this point.
 
Tom,

Sounds like the seal at the end of the rod that seals off the reservoir isn't sealing. The fluid is rising when you press the pedal and falling when you release?

Scott
 
Hi Scott!

Yes, the fluid in the clutch mc will rise and fall when I press/release the clutch pedal.

I'm guessing that while there is enough of a seal there to move. The fluid in there I am not getting enough pressure to force fluid down the hard line/pipe.

If I back the bleeder out all the fluid will drain out. If I tighten the speed bleeder and then back it off slightly no fluid comes out of the bleeder and no resistance builds iin the system to a point where the slave responds.

I have the trans cover off and can see everything while I am doing this...

(MGC is being a pain too - grin)
 
tdskip said:
Yes, the fluid in the clutch mc will rise and fall when I press/release the clutch pedal.
Click to expand...
Then like Scott said, the valve is not sealing. Time to pull the MC apart again, see what you've done wrong.

My guess is that you left out the wavy washer.

This shot is from the brake MC (so the rod & spring are shorter, and the piston has a funny shape), but the foot valve is the same as the clutch:
MC11.JPG


Hmm, now that I look at it, that photo also shows the thimble in the wrong place. Imagine Nelson making a mistake like that!
 
Hi Randall - pulled it but haven't taken it apart. I did put the wavy washer in however, does direction of how it is installed matter?

Right - thimble goes up where the lip is (see, I'm paying attention). Ha!
 
:iagree: with the others here. The fluid should NOT rise in the reservoir when you depress the pedal. If it does, the little rubber seal to the far right of Randall's pic is not doing it's job. Therefore, the piston is pushing fluid into the reservoir instead of down the pipe, like it ought to.
 
tdskip said:
I did put the wavy washer in however, does direction of how it is installed matter?
Click to expand...
Nope, doesn't matter. But check that, if you compress the spring a bit by hand, the wavy washer pushes the rubber seal out past the edge of the 3-legged plastic thingy. Also inspect the surface inside the MC, around the hole, where the rubber seal seats to block off the passage back to the reservoir.

If still no joy, I guess I'd start trying to measure distances. The concept is that, when the pedal is released and the MC piston all the way out, the internal return spring pushes the plastic piece out against the end of the bore, and so lifts the rubber seal away from the end. As soon as the piston is moved into the MC, the rod moves and lets the wavy washer push the rod & seal up against the bore, to block off the passage.
 
Thanks guys - seal not forcing fluid down the pipe to actuate the slave makes total sense.

OK - pulled it.

This is how I had it assembled.

DSCN4787.jpg


DSCN4788.jpg
 
That could be your culprit. It must seal the fluid entrance. It's certainly a cheap enough part. I say "replace it."
 
:iagree:
Might just be the angle of the photo, but it also looks as though the rubber is too big in diameter to slide easily inside the plastic collar. Seems like it's just a poorly made part.
 
Tom,

Just curious since I'm out of touch with parts availability. Do you still get Girling rebuild kits?

Scott
 
Sorry, Tom, I'm unfamiliar with the manufacturer of the depicted car... :laugh:
 
OK - one new Moss clutch MC later and I have a working clutch.

BUT - the engagement is really stiff and pretty binary, very little travel, kind of on/off...
 
Hey - thanks for asking. Yes, got her sorted (if you can ever say such a thing) and the clutch engagement is pretty good now. Fingers crossed that she'll be good for some time now.

Now the car pictured above is putting up more of a fight...

Coming into great driving season in Atlanta soon, yes?
 
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