TR2/3/3A Tr6 a type overdruve in my tr3 too long

[Got_All_4]

Just installed the engine and tranny in my TR3A and as you can see in the pics it too long. What's the solution? My 3 only had a 4 speed in it.

 

[charleyf]

You need to modify the lower plate under the transmission mount, by drilling two holes rear of the existing two. Apparently this is needed because the front flange on the transmission is thicker on the later transmissions. You will also need to use longer bolts for mounting it to the engine. You may also need to cut down the raised portion of the mounting bracket as it may well hit the bottom side of the transmission.
Charley

 

[sixtynine]

Not able to see your photo's. Is that a J type odrive?

 

[TR3driver]

Nope, it's an A-type. J-type mounting is totally different and the body of the OD passes through where the mount would be on an A-type.

Charleyf nailed it, but the extra length is due to the synchro on 1st gear. Even the TR4 box with the thin flange was roughly 3/8" longer than the 3 synchro box.

 

[Got_All_4]

So what do I do with the angled part of the plate? I thinking it's there to give it some extra strength. As you can see in the pic if I just drill the 2 holes and bolt it down then the rubber mount will hit the angled piece.

 

[GTP1960]

So what do I do with the angled part of the plate? I thinking it's there to give it some extra strength. As you can see in the pic if I just drill the 2 holes and bolt it down then the rubber mount will hit the angled piece.

I elongated the holes & flipped it over ( ground down the shorter flange a little & used a ridge cover for more protection, but that was probably unnecessary )

 

[CJD]

I slotted the upper holes in the mount, so I did not have to butcher the plate. That slides the mount forward so it all fits. Mounts are cheaper than the plate right now.

 

[TR3driver]

On my mount, there wasn't room to modify the upper plate. So I drilled the crossmember, and bent the back edge down (big Crescent wrench plus a BFH IIRC) so it would clear the mount.
I've lost track of long it's been that way, but the crossmember looked fine even after the accident that ruined the body (and some pretty aggressive driving including an autoX trophy).

 

[charleyf]

I cut the rear flange enough for the transmission to clear. That is very sturdy piece of metal. If something is going to fail it will be the welds at the frame. Which on one car I restored did have cracked welds on those mounts. I do believe that the car had been raced in a previous life. I also found weld cracks in the front suspension.
Charley

 

[Got_All_4]

Hear is what I did. Kind of a combination of all the ideas. I was concerned of loosing strength in the bracket by cutting it. Now with drilling 2 holes so close together that there could be the possibility of getting some stress cracking between the holes. So to fix the original holes and strengthen the bracket I took an old transmission mount that the rubber was missing, wacked the ends off then made a long cut about an inch wide down the length. Basically made a piece of angle iron. Clamped it to the bottom side of the bracket and made sure I covered the holes then plug welded the holes shut. Also ran a bead on each side of the angle iron to the bottom of the bracket. Still had to cut some of the back edge off and bend it down too a lot. Even more then in the pic.

 

[CJD]

You got all fancy on us! That'll work.