TR4/4A TR4A long block value?

[TR4A_IRS]

Any guesses as to the fair market value of a TR4A long block? I have the opportunity to pick one up, but I don't have a feel for how much I should be willing to pay.

I would like to do an engine rebuild, and like the idea of being able to drive my car while doing the work.

 

[TR3driver]

The block itself is practically worthless; in fact I tried to give one away last year and got no takers. A sound crank & head are worth perhaps $150 each, IMO, maybe a bit more if the crank has never been ground before (will clean up at .010" under). ISTR Larry was paying $60 for camshafts, and Joe was paying $20 for rear main seals.

So maybe $500 for the package. YMMV

 

[billspit]

Talk to the sellers wife. You will probably get it for free.

 

[TR4nut]

I agree with Randall on the component prices, but I'd say the really marketable parts are just the crank and the head. So if I were hunting for a long block probably $200-$300 is about as much as I'd go. Just like a car, the engine is worth more in parts than whole so bargain hunting is not out of line I think. All depends on timing and needs - they do show up for low money over time.

 

[TR4A_IRS]

I guess I should have been more specific. I have always thought of a long block as a complete engine with accessories (water pump, generator, etc.) and I think of a short block as the block and head, including all engine internals.

Thanks for the feedback so far. What I am looking at is a long block plus both manifolds and carbs. I am told it ran before pulled, albeit poorly.

 

[mallard]

I just sold a TR4 complete engine for $500.00.The engine would turn, but had no idea of the condition. I was surprised that I got asking price.

 

[Andrew Mace]

I don't know who's right, but I always thought of the short block as that relatively complete assembly BELOW the cylinder head (including crank, pistons, probably camshaft). The long block would be the above plus cylinder head and such. A "complete engine with accessories (water pump, generator, etc.)" is something I would describe as "a complete engine"! :laugh:

As for value of a wet-liner block itself, probably not much...unless you've got someone trying to find one that doesn't have cracks around the cylinder head stud holes, or other damage. THEN you might have something worth a few $$$.

 

[Marvin Gruber]

Short block has no head. I have a TR4a high port head engine I'm selling for $400. All disassembled, head magnafluxed. Those heads bring $300. A crank is worth $100/150, about the same as the short block.

Marv

 

[cheseroo]

I don't know who's right, but I always thought of the short block as that relatively complete assembly BELOW the cylinder head (including crank, pistons, probably camshaft). The long block would be the above plus cylinder head and such. A "complete engine with accessories (water pump, generator, etc.)" is something I would describe as "a complete engine"! :laugh:

That's my belief as well. If it's on OHV engine, a short block includes the cam otherwise no cam. It should include a pan but I've seen them advertised as such without it. A long block is a short block that includes the head (and cam and cam chain/belt stuff) and pan. It does not include any manifolds or accessories (incl water pump). A complete engine is just that, one ready to drop in (maybe less air cleaners). A short block requires the head and accessories installed to make it run. A long block requires accessories to run and a complete engine requires nothing to run.

It sounds to me like you want a complete engine although in the situation you describe, I would get a long block and transfer my accessories to it (I'd wouldn't share the water pump between the two though) and rebuild my original. If you are going whole hog, I'd send off my distro and carbs right before the rebuild was complete to minimize the downtime. Unless you feel the need to have stuff like spare exhaust and intake manifolds, I don't see it being cost effective to have a complete spare engine unless it doesn't cost any more than a long block.

 

[TR4A_IRS]

For futher clarity, what I looking at is a "complete engine" that includes just about everything.

I know I could swap over all the accessories, when the time comes, and I will probably do that, since mine are all in good working order. I won't be paying a premium for all the extras.

Thanks.

 

[TR3driver]

For futher clarity, what I looking at is a "complete engine" that includes just about everything.

In that case, the starter, generator, manifolds and carbs will add something to the value.

My point of view, a "long block" would probably include the water pump housing and might include the water pump; but not manifolds, starter & carbs.

I'm still trying to decide whether it is worth the extra effort to swap engines before the rebuild, so I can rebuild the original block. As I get older, I seem to value originality more than I used to, and yet since I don't plan to ever show the car, it really doesn't matter what numbers are on the side of the engine. And for sure I'm still going to install my "go fast" goodies, including hot cam, 89mm liners, 4-2-1 header, etc.

 

[Perrymip]

This will be a high figure, since it's a shop's charge, but I was intending to do the opposite of your plan, that is: having another motor rebuilt, while continuing to drive mine. Anyway, the shop's "core charge" was $750. I ended up not going this direction, but I'm guessing the figure is not far off standard.