Hi,
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/iagree.gif You most definitely need a special puller to remove the hubs and those are hard to find and a little tricky to use. More common hub "leg type" pullers usually don't work and really increase the possiblity of damaging the hub. Another method - having the hub pressed off at a machine shop - is an alternative, but this is also riskier than the original type of hub puller. A lot of hubs, and sometimes even axles, get damaged in the process.
And, you should be able to remove the studs without removing the hub from the car. However, if you do need to, you can remove the hub/axle assembly relatively easily without using a puller. The hub/axles can be removed as a set and are simply attached by 6 bolts behind each rear brake plate. There are tab-locking washers that should be replaced at the same time, and you need to be careful about the seal in the axle tube (might want to replace it) and handling the axle so that no splines are damaged. Also, there are shims behind the brake backing plate that set the axle end float and need to be carefully kept together as a set (might need some changing if there's some wear and end float has increased).
The rear studs on TR4 are screwed into the hub, then peened a little on the back side to help keep them from loosening. That's where some griinding is usually needed to remove them. Replacements are widely available and even longer ones can be ordered, if desirable (if using spacers and/or with some alloy wheels).
You didn't mention if you have wire wheels and adapters. If so, those use special *shorter* studs and special nuts.
If you order TR4 studs, hopefully they will send you the right thing. It's easy to check. TR4 and earlier studs should have a smooth shoulder on them right at the hub, that the brake drum fits snugly onto. In other words, the lug stud threads start outside the brake hub. TR6, for example, do not have that shoulder on the stud. They are the same diameter all the way to the hub. As a result, brake drums for TR6 are slightly different, with slightly smaller holes for the lug studs.
One consideration, if you have grease/oil inside the rear brake drums, that indicates the seals inside the hubs are failing. In that case, it might be worth going ahead and tracking down a puller or carefully having the hubs pressed off, which would give easy access to the broken stud at the same time. If you don't have grease/oil inside the rear brake drums, be sure to keep the bearings lubed to help keep everything in good condition (there's a grease zerk right beside the brake backing plate.... two or three strokes with a grease gun annually is usually all that's needed).
Hope this helps!
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