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TR4/4A tr4 rear hub problem

Pauly06

Freshman Member
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has anyone removed a rear hub on a tr4 do you need a puller? I am trying to replace a stud that has broken do they pull in from the back or are they pressed in from the front?
 

TR4

Jedi Knight
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You absolutely need a puller. Hopefully someone can tells us where to buy one. I have seen one and it is unique but I have lost that information. My studs are screwed in from the front and then pressed on the back side. I was able to get a grinder on the pressing and then simply screw it out. I did not end up having to pull the hub.
 
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Pauly06

Freshman Member
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thanks for the information I am picking up the stud today and now I understand what I am looking at. The hub has a key and a tappered end. It might not want to come off easily.
 

mgbmedic

Jedi Trainee
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you shoulsn't need to pull the hub if all your doing is relacing a wheel stud. i just repaced both rear hubs on my 72 TR6, it's not a difficult job if necessary. Is it a wheel stud? Just hammer it out(if it's broken flush with the hub, use a punch and hammer) to relace, just insert from the back, use several washers as spacers, use the chrome nut to tighten, and the stud will seat itself. you may need leverage to keep the wheel from turning as you seat the stud. Use a lever between two of the other studs to keep the wheel from turning,
 
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Pauly06

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yes it is a wheel stud I was think of replacing the rear studs with new but the hub wouldn't budge. One posting says the studs are threaded in and one says they are pressed in which is correct?
 

TR4nut

Yoda
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I haven't pulled a stud yet on my TR4, but there apparently are some 4's where the stud is screwed in instead of pressed in as I think Mr. TR4 said. You might want to examine if you can to see if you have to unscrew the broken stud out. Having said that, I only know of replacement studs that are the press in variety, Roadster Factory has a pretty good discount on them right now. If its pressed in, I'm pretty sure mgbmedic is right and you can just drive out and replace without pulling the hub.

Regardless of pressed vs. screwed in, I'd try to get the stud out before pulling the hub as it can be tightly on there and there is a good chance of damage with a simple puller. However, since you are in Madison and I'm a former Badger I know there is a guy around Green Bay with a good puller set up (for TR3, but its the same) - he offered to pull the hub for free if I got it to him. Might be worth a road trip when the snow melts up there - let me know if you want to pursue and I'll dig up contact info.

Good luck!
Randy
 

Alan_Myers

Luke Skywalker
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Hi,

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/iagree.gif You most definitely need a special puller to remove the hubs and those are hard to find and a little tricky to use. More common hub "leg type" pullers usually don't work and really increase the possiblity of damaging the hub. Another method - having the hub pressed off at a machine shop - is an alternative, but this is also riskier than the original type of hub puller. A lot of hubs, and sometimes even axles, get damaged in the process.

And, you should be able to remove the studs without removing the hub from the car. However, if you do need to, you can remove the hub/axle assembly relatively easily without using a puller. The hub/axles can be removed as a set and are simply attached by 6 bolts behind each rear brake plate. There are tab-locking washers that should be replaced at the same time, and you need to be careful about the seal in the axle tube (might want to replace it) and handling the axle so that no splines are damaged. Also, there are shims behind the brake backing plate that set the axle end float and need to be carefully kept together as a set (might need some changing if there's some wear and end float has increased).

The rear studs on TR4 are screwed into the hub, then peened a little on the back side to help keep them from loosening. That's where some griinding is usually needed to remove them. Replacements are widely available and even longer ones can be ordered, if desirable (if using spacers and/or with some alloy wheels).

You didn't mention if you have wire wheels and adapters. If so, those use special *shorter* studs and special nuts.

If you order TR4 studs, hopefully they will send you the right thing. It's easy to check. TR4 and earlier studs should have a smooth shoulder on them right at the hub, that the brake drum fits snugly onto. In other words, the lug stud threads start outside the brake hub. TR6, for example, do not have that shoulder on the stud. They are the same diameter all the way to the hub. As a result, brake drums for TR6 are slightly different, with slightly smaller holes for the lug studs.

One consideration, if you have grease/oil inside the rear brake drums, that indicates the seals inside the hubs are failing. In that case, it might be worth going ahead and tracking down a puller or carefully having the hubs pressed off, which would give easy access to the broken stud at the same time. If you don't have grease/oil inside the rear brake drums, be sure to keep the bearings lubed to help keep everything in good condition (there's a grease zerk right beside the brake backing plate.... two or three strokes with a grease gun annually is usually all that's needed).

Hope this helps!

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
 

PeterK

Yoda
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just to be clear and to keep you from trying to pound out the rear studs, the TR4-$A is unlike the TR6 in this respect ...

On a TR4-4A, the REAR studs screw in and the bit that screws all the way through the hub is then peened all the way around to keep them from coming loose. To remove them, you must grind the peening away and then use two 7/16-20 nuts locked together to unscrew the stud. It is a royal PIA to grind the peening off with the hub on but can be done. I used the appropriate size large drill on a bare hub using my drill press cut cut away the old peening cleanly. But it can be done on the car.

The FRONT studs however, can be tapped out of their knurled holes from the outside with a a few taps from BFH and are easily replaced. Just line up the knurls of the new stud with the hole and pull them in with a large washer and a lugnut.
 
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Pauly06

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Mine spun in the hub and came out still in the rim with the shoulder on one side and the lug nut on the other. I had to cut the nut off with a four inch cutoff wheel. I may need to put a little tack weld on the backside if the threads are mucked up inthe hub.
 

TR4nut

Yoda
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I didn't realize this threaded lug carried all the way through to the 4A - which means my 4 has threads too. Side question I have is, even if the stud can be extracted with the hub on the car, I don't see any easy way to reattach - peening it would be difficult, maybe the tack weld? If you pull the whole axle assembly can you get good access to the backside of those studs?

I know I didn't start this thread, but I've been thinking of swapping the short studs on my wire wheeled car for longer studs with wheel spacers but this sounds like a real headache..
 

Alan_Myers

Luke Skywalker
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[ QUOTE ]
Mine spun in the hub and came out still in the rim with the shoulder on one side and the lug nut on the other. I had to cut the nut off with a four inch cutoff wheel. I may need to put a little tack weld on the backside if the threads are mucked up inthe hub.

[/ QUOTE ]

Ahhh, that's a different situation all together. FYI, Revington TR in England offers special replacement studs for just this sort of repair. They are the only ones offering them AFAIK, and the studs have larger diameter threads to fit at the hub. The old stripped hub threads are drilled out and then hole is re-tapped oversize (tap is provided in the kit). Not cheap, but likely your best method of saving the hub. At least it's a small item, so shipping from England wouldn't be too pricey. www.revingtontr.com is their website, in case you are interested.

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
 

PeterK

Yoda
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When I changed my rear studs, I really changed them out...to use GM studs with a knurled neck. I had the hubs drilled out at a machine shop to fit the new studs and then pressed in the new studs. They're longer and now easier to replace if needed. Drilling and grinding the peening was such a pain that alone convinced me to do it.

Has anyone found a slightly longer front stud that fits the existing hub?
 

derickson

Member
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Alan,
I need two of the oversize rear studs (for disc wheels) you mention that revington sells- I couldn't find them on their website. I sent them a note, but haven't gotten a response. Can you give more detail about where to find them?
Thanks,
 

Geo Hahn

Yoda
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[ QUOTE ]
...If you pull the whole axle assembly can you get good access to the backside of those studs?

[/ QUOTE ]

If you pull the assembly and then pull the hub you will have access. If those hubs have never been separated than that step is likely where you will lose your religion. They can be a real beast to get apart w/o something bad happening. Probably many threads in the archive on this topic.
 

derickson

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so I got the hubs out tonight, and replaced the damaged studs, and decided to replace the inner oil seals as well (the outer ones sound too difficult). So far, all I've been able to do is damage the inner oil seal. Any hints for getting it out? See the picture.
 

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TR4nut

Yoda
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Some have had luck drilling a hole on the face of the seal, putting in a sheet metal screw, and prying on the screw. You might still have the same problem if it is really stuck on there.

Worst case, you can take a small screwdriver and carefully drive between the seal and the case, then bend it out of there. Just take your time and nothing should be ruined other than that old seal.

Good luck,
Randy
 
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