TR2/3/3A TR3B Turn Signal Switch

[af3683]

So if the control head can move while the steering wheel is stationary does that mean that I likely have 2 issues:

1) the stator tube is damaged either at the control head or the steering box and must be replaced?
2) some of the wire connections in the control head are loose or disconnected?

Also, I fortunately happen to have a spare original control head and stator tube assembly that I was tinkering around with this evening getting ready for when I get my car. I was trying to take the back off to check the wiring, but I couldn't get access to the 3 screws in the back. They seem to be partially covered by a flat thin piece of metal which appears to have 3 cut out sections which I think are supposed to go around the screws. However, the metal piece is rotated a bit so the screws are not totally accessible. A strayed a little lubricant on it and hope that I will be able to rotate it enough to get access to the screws. Is anyone familar with this?

Sorry for all the questions. Thank you.

Art

 

[TR3driver]

1) the stator tube is damaged either at the control head or the steering box and must be replaced?

It is possible that it is just loose at the steering box; but more likely that it is broken at the steering wheel end (right at the bottom of the slot).
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]2) some of the wire connections in the control head are loose or disconnected?
[/QUOTE]More likely, the wire itself is damaged and must be replaced. They don't last long once the control head starts working back and forth at every turn. And there really isn't room for a proper repair.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]Is anyone familar with this?[/QUOTE]
Sure. The metal plate should rotate fairly easily. Not spin loosely, but you should be able to just grab it with your hand and turn it, if the turn lever is centered.

But it's not too unusual for it to bind. In fact, that is usually what leads to the stator tube breaking. The plate (and the self-canceling mechanism it drives) binds, which forces the head to turn with the wheel and break the tube.

 

[af3683]

Thank you Randell. When I get my car home, hopefully today, I will check the connection at the steering box and try to check the wiring in the control head. As I mentioned I was sort of practicing last night on a spare control head and stator tube but could not get the backing plate off. The backing plate moves freely. However, when I attempted to line up the 3 holes in the plate with the screws, the screws are partiattly covered by this flat metal piece. I attempted to move it with a screw driver through one of the holes or even putting the crew drive underneath the backing plate. I was able to move it about 1/32 of an inch but it has to move about 1/2 inch. There is now way to get your finger on it. Thank you.

Art

 

[af3683]

I'm using the above link as a guide to the disassembly. This link does not mention this flat metal piece that is preventing me from removing the the 3 screws that hold the backing plate in place. This link also shows a control head with only 1 spring for the horn push. My control head has 3 springs. Any further help would be appreciated. Thanks.

Art

 

[TR3driver]

Any chance you could post a picture, Art? Your description sounds strange, making me wonder if perhaps the head you have is not an original TR3 unit.

Here's a shot that shows the back plate lined up with the holes

And here's one that shows the spring for the horn push:

I've had quite a few of these apart, and every one has looked like this (except for obvious damage, and the longer post found on the version for the 'adjustable' steering wheel).

 

[af3683]

Randell,

Thank you for the photo. I finally figured out how to get the backing plate off. The flat piece of metal covering the 3 screws under the backing plate has a little tab that you can pry up in order to move the plate in order to access the screws. My control head looks a bit different than yours. The backing plate has a few more holes in it and a small vertical piece of metal that sticks out. Also, the back of the control head is more exposed. I do not have what appears to be a back cover like you do and I can see the 2 small thin springs for the return?, the control lever, and the mechanism that moves around which I think shuts the turn signal off. Also, when I removed the screws holding the fron cover and horn push on, there were 3 springs for the horn push. I tried posting a photo but couldn't figure out how to do it.

Art

 

[Andrew Mace]

Barring a photo, can you give us a part number, such as the 32903B as seen in Randall's photo above? (Alternatively, 32930 [A] is the part number for the telescopic column/adjustable steering wheel).

 

[af3683]

Hi Andrew,

The number on the backing plate appears to be 32897D 6 59 or 32897D 6 69 .

Thank you.

Art

 

[TR3driver]

Sure sounds like the wrong switch then. There were several cars that used similar control heads, maybe Andy can identify which one your head came from.

Here's a shot of what you should see after removing those 3 screws through the holes

 

[mrv8q]

Cool pics! Never seen the insides of a trafficator before ...

 

[Andrew Mace]

32897D 6 59

Interestingly enough (but perhaps not too surprising, given their relative popularity in the US), that part number comes from the Nash (or Hudson or Austin) Metropolitan, 1957-60! Perhaps later today I can look deeper into this and see how much interchange there is between that and the "proper" TR3 control head.

 

[TR3driver]

Cool pics! Never seen the insides of a trafficator before ...

I've got quite a few at home, taken when I cleaned & lubed the head for the project TR3. My intention is to write a tech article on the process, but I haven't found one of those magic round tuits yet.