• Hey Guest!
    British Car Forum has been supporting enthusiasts for over 25 years by providing a great place to share our love for British cars. You can support our efforts by upgrading your membership for less than the dues of most car clubs. There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Upgraded members don't see this banner, nor will you see the Google ads that appear on the site.)
  • When posting a classified ad, you MUST select a prefix from the drop-down next to the subject line. If you don't you will get an error and your ad will not be posted!
Tips
Tips

TR2/3/3A TR3B Turn Signal Switch

Share this page

af3683

af3683

Jedi Trainee
Country flag
Offline
I'm having a TR3B restored and have been told that my turn signal is not working on the right side and that I probably need a new blinker switch. I was wondering if there is any way to possibly fix the existing switch. I also happen to have an old spare switch which came with the car which I could probably use for parts. If I have to buy a new one from Moss, is it fairly easy to remove the old unit and install the new one since I'm thinking of doing it myself? Any help would be appreciated. Thank you.

Art
 
Thank you very much for the link. I guess purchasing a new control head might be the best way to go. I'm still not quite sure how to remove the control head from the steering wheel and then somehow thread the new wiring down the stator tube.

Art
 
It makes a fiddly job fiddlier, but one <span style="font-style: italic">can</span> disassemble and unwire the control head in place, leaving the wire harness in the tube. I've done it...
 
af3683 said:
I'm having a TR3B restored and have been told that my turn signal is not working on the right side and that I probably need a new blinker switch.
Click to expand...

Have you elininated all other culprits?

The control head would be far down the list of Easy Things First, Hard Things Later. Also far down the list of Cheap Things First, Expensive Things Later.
 
Twosheds said:
Have you elininated all other culprits?

The control head would be far down the list of Easy Things First, Hard Things Later. Also far down the list of Cheap Things First, Expensive Things Later.
Click to expand...
Yeah, that was my first thought as well, but it's tough to tell much from "have been told that my turn signal is not working on the right side and that I probably need a new blinker switch." (Not a criticism of you, Art!) Is there an obvious mechanical problem with the control head, i.e., does the lever not push to the right or flops over to the right and therefore isn't making contact...or is it just that the RH flasher lamps aren't lighting? The latter could be as simple as a bad ground; at worst, it could be a loose or disconnected wire from the control head.

"Easy Things First" is definitely my motto, too! :hammer:
 
My first question is: How solid is the control head? Does it keep its position as you turn the wheel, or is it loose and spins with the steering wheel. If it moves, then the stator tube id bad, and probably you have broken wires. wiring somewhere in the circuit is my first suspicion. those switches are dead simple inside, and more often than not, are not the issue.
I'd positively prove the switch bad before doing all that's involved in replacing one.
 
I agree entirely about making sure the switch is actually the problem before replacing it. There are just too many other things it might be.

One way to check the switch would be to temporarily connect the LH switch wire to the RH turn signals, and see if they work now. If not, the problem is somewhere else. Of course, if they do work now, the problem might still be in the wiring to the switch, but at least you've narrowed down the possibilities.

But IMO it would be foolish to do a restoration without disassembling the control head (which includes disassembling the turn switch) for cleaning and lubrication. Although not mentioned in the manuals, I feel this is a "normal maintenance" item that should be done every 10 years or so anyway.

And while it is certainly possible for the components to be badly worn or broken, generally cleaning and lubrication is all it takes. For me, at least, the periodic maintenance helps ensure that it won't get broken (I have broken one, trying to get the signals to stay on
grin.gif
)

Moses is right, of course, about it being possible to replace the head without removing the wires from the car, but I wouldn't recommend it, especially if you're not certain the switch is the problem. Those wires also get old and break sometimes, plus it is rather difficult and fiddly to connect them to the control head. IMO you should get new wires to go with your new control head (if you do go that way).

Removing the head is not very difficult, but you will need to disconnect the wires under the hood (if they aren't already) so that the harness can move at least partway through the tube. There are also 3 small 'grub' screws spaced around the back of the steering wheel hub that need to be loosened. After that, the head just pulls away from the wheel.

To reinstall the wires through the tube, first push a length of steel "handy wire" (aka baling wire to some of us) through the tube. Shape the end into a hook, and tape the wires to it. Some wire pulling lubricant will help too. Then you just alternate pulling on the steel wire, and helping the electrical wires into the other end.
 
TR3driver said:
...it is certainly possible for the components to be badly worn or broken...
Click to expand...
Yeah, typically cheap Lucas components. I mean, I had one parts car that couldn't have been completely open to the elements for more than 10-12 years; doggone chrome lever on the control head broke right off one day. Geesh! In fairness, though, I've another parts car exposed for nearly that long now, and the lever still functions. :laugh:
 
Since you're having the car "RESTORED" apparently by some one else,I would question the level of their restoration skills on a TR3 if they cannot help you with this question.Not knowing the level of your mechanical skills,you might be better to find someone in your area with actual TR experience as this problem could be a multitude of causes.It could be very simple,such as a bad ground,or someone having hacked you wiring into a nightmare.Go carefully and remember some so-called restorers love to throw new parts at a problem,if it's someone elses money.
 
The RHS blinker stopped working one time on my 1958 TR3A. It was the bulb.

Another time it was the blinker relay which was losing smoke from inside. I replaced it.

My left turn will not cancel. It's on my list for this winter. For over a year now I have had to turn it off manually with my finger on the flicker on the control head.

These are what the guys above talk about being "not expensive" along with their other good suggestions.
 
Don Elliott said:
The RHS blinker stopped working one time on my 1958 TR3A. It was the bulb.

Another time it was the blinker relay which was losing smoke from inside. I replaced it.

My left turn will not cancel. It's on my list for this winter. For over a year now I have had to turn it off manually with my finger on the flicker on the control head.

These are what the guys above talk about being "not expensive" along with their other good suggestions.
Click to expand...

Don, I for one look forward to your solution to the non-cancellation problem.
 
Frank, Often on the TR2-3 control heads the grease around the little cancel mechanism fingers gets dried up and they stick. Simply taking it apart and cleaning everything out usually takes care of it.
 
Thank you all for your help. I really appreciate it. The place doing the restoration is certainly willing and able to trouble shoot the right turn signal issue, but since they know that I am a bit handy (and have spent enough money as it is) they are simply try to save me some money. I checked the car out today, and the control head lever moves fine. The mechanic said he checked the connections, where the control head wires connect to the wiring harness under the hood, and they are fine. However, he did not check the wiring at the control head. Maybe that is where the problem is. Again, he will do whatever I ask him to do. I was planning on picking the car up tomorrow or Saturday and would like to get some driving in before the cooler weather comes.

I bought this car back in 1993, never drove it, and did a little restoration work myself. Then last year my wife surprised me and made arrangements with a restoration shop to restore the car.

Art
 
Art
WOW
How lucky are you to have a wife that not only understands all this LBC stuff, but arranges restorations too!!! She must be a saint.........just like mine.
Motor on!
Gordon
 
Art, My question was, does the entire control head move with the wheel? If the stator tube it mounts to is good, the control head should not turn. Often the cancel mechanism inside gets sticky, and drags on the head until it breaks the stator tube. The symptom is that the head will turn back and forth with the wheel. It should not turn at all. If it does, it puts a ton of strain on the wires in the tube, and eventually they give out (usually right behind the control head)
That turn signal switch should always point to the 12:00 position (Tipped to one side or another when activated)
 
Thanks again for your help. Unfortunately, when I saw the car today I did not pay attention as to whether the control head moved with the steering wheel. I did move the control head, with the steering wheel stationary, and it appeared to move a few inches. The mechanic said that this movement is normal in order to accommodate the return. I'm not sure if this info helps in any way.
 
The control head/ stator tube is fixed and shouldn't turn at all. Mine is presently broke. I have that on my winter project list an will hopefully be able to repair the stator tube by welding it.
 
Yup. I agree. A few inches is too much. the control head should not move at all.
Good possibility that is where your problem lies.
 
Just finished doing the A/H3000. Same deal, control head turning. Pulled stator tube out. Cut a 6" long slot in the upper end for the control head to slide in and out of. Had an old stator tube, so cut and welded a piece on this one to make it long enough again. Back together and wired up. I did check control head wiring while it was out. I was lucky that it was working. SW is pretty much the same as the TR3. Have one of those to fix as well.

Good luck

Marv
 
Back
Top