TR2/3/3A TR3A Wing beading

[mapleaf]

For the past ten years or so, the wing beading between the scuttle panel and front fender of my TR3A has been loose. So rather than continuing to push it down every time I pass I've decided to try to fix it. I would like to know the proper way for securing the wing beading tabs between the scuttle panel and fender? Any advice will be greatly appreciated.

 

[prb51]

I'm not sure exactly where your beading is popping out but some here have riveted there beading in place to the outer wing. They've used a small rivet on the tabs spaced evenly between the bolt patern.
This also make removing the apron easier as you don't have to worry about errant beading dangling in the air.

 

[Arrow]

I have three TR-3s I just looked and all three bee\adings are installed the same. Along the hood area the long sliver of steel sticking down is either pop rivited in orhas small screws into the fender. Behind the hood or just in front of the door the tabs stick down and are basically clamped between the fender and the cockpit. At the front the tabs are likewise squeezed between the front apron and fender. I suspect if you gave the slipping tab a slight twist it would add to the friction fit. Another solution would be to solder another sliver of steel to the tab making them slightly thicker.

 

[martx-5]

... Behind the hood or just in front of the door the tabs stick down and are basically clamped between the fender and the cockpit...

If this is the area you are refering to, there is a bolt (7/16" hex head) accessible from inside. There is a hole in the inner panel that you can stick a socket and extention through. You may be able to tighten that screw up and clamp the beading in place. You may have to peel back the interior trim to gain access to the hole if your trim does not have a hole in it. It's up pretty high on the panel.

 

[NickMorgan]

When you re-fit wings and beading you should aim to have the metal tabs just above the wing bolts. This will stop the tabs all sliding down to the bottom. You can always temporarily tape them in position until all of the bolts are in place.
As your wings are already in situ, you can either locate the metal tabs on the underside of the wings and bend them straight and re-bend them to tighten the beading, or alternatively, on one TR I had the tabs had been pulled down and then twisted. Although this is effective it created a lovely sharp edge to catch your hands on.

 

[Russ Austin]

Art is correct there is a hole on the inside that will give you access to a cage nut, check and see if you can tighten the bolt and that should get it.

 

[Don Elliott]

I MIG welded a 2" long bolt to the top of thr head of the normal last bolt near the door and stanchion base that secures the fender up behind the carpet in the sidewall of the footwell and this re-design makes it much easier to tighten the bolt plus washers because the second bolt is only just inside the hole and you can see it and easily fit a socket onto it to tighten it.

 

[mapleaf]

Thanks for info, guys. I removed the carpet from the side of the footwell and found that the bodyman apparently forgot to replace the fender bolts on both sides. Should be an easy fix now. I've also got the apron off the car to have the rad recored so the other wing beading tips will be helpful when I get around to putting it back together. Thanks again.