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TR2/3/3A TR3A Engine

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DavidApp

Yoda
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Hello All

Starting to take the engine of my TR3A apart and am not sure if the big bolt that holds the fan and water pump pulley to the crankshaft is Left hand thread or Right hand thread. The manual I have does not mention it but looking at the Hand crank dog I would assume Left hand thread.
Hate to bang on it too much till I am sure that I am going in the correct direction.

David
 
Right hand thread. I usually loosen with either and impact wrench (if apron is off or engine is out) or by bracing a breaker bar on the frame and bumping the starter.
 
Best to use a 6 point socket too, since the corners are pre-rounded.
 
Thank You.

The engine is on a stand so I will have to secure the flywheel end then have a go with my impact wrench.

David
 
With a decent impact gun, you shouldn't need to worry about securing the flywheel. The impact will just work against the inertia of the crank & flywheel.
 
Got it off. I did not have a socket that size so I put a jack under the sump so that I was not straining on the 4 bolts holding the engine to the stand. Then with a wrench I could apply enough pressure to loosen the bolt.

On another subject are crank handles hard to find? Always found it handy in my old 1955 TR2. My first car in 1969. Batteries would die slowly in those days so a starting handle was handy.

David
 
DavidApp said:
...On another subject are crank handles hard to find?...
Click to expand...

I had no trouble finding one on eBay -- but be aware there were at least 3 different sizes/specs. As I recall there were variants for the various locations of the front crank support on the TR2/3, the TR3A and the TR4. They all look quite similar in photos and eBay sellers often don't really know what they have.

I believe this photo is a 3A crank shown on a pegboard with holes @ 1" squares:

crank-long.jpg


Before you buy one you should probably inspect a photo of the tip to assure the teeth are fairly sharp - some cranks have been abused to the point where they might have trouble engaging well:

CrankTip.jpg


I once lost the starter on day one of a seven-day trip. Was glad to have the crank (though I still parked on a hill when I could):

crank-it_zps13ad6aba.jpg


My friends supported me 100% (emotionally that is).
 
Geo Hahn said:
I once lost the starter on day one of a seven-day trip. Was glad to have the crank (though I still parked on a hill when I could):

crank-it_zps13ad6aba.jpg


My friends supported me 100% (emotionally that is).
Click to expand...

You shoulda just had you friends give you a push instead of standing around watching. :glee:
 
Like George, I blew my starter while we were in Stowe VT one on day one of a 6 day trip. Gots a lot of looks when I brought out the crank but she worked most of the time. Cold starting seemed to be better than hot. By the way, mine is chromed (came that way) and I have been tuned up by a few for too much bling. It should be black.

Frank D........
 
Oooooh... a chrome crank sounds nice. I don't mind bling if it isn't always on display.

It is my experience too that a crank start is easiest on a cold or nearly cold engine.

Cranking to start is always a crowd pleaser at local shows as most casual observers have never seen it done. If the engine is in a good state of tune it is a treat to see and hear as there is no real drama or noise -- one moment the engine is still and the next it is running.
 
I got a crank off ebay too, and it's not chrome. The guide lines up with the "bearing" and the edges are pointed and provide good grip to the dog bolt. I have positioned the dog bolt orientation as the good book suggests. The engine in my TR3 definitely starts quicker when cold than warm (especially if I give it a little snort of starting spray), but I have yet to use the crank handle. I've never seen one started by hand. All I lack is nerve. I don't think I can get that off ebay. -At least I have ambition.
 
I was always told to hold the handle with my thumb on the same side as my fingers in case of kick back. That way no broken thumb.

David
 
TexasKnucklehead said:
I got a crank off ebay too, and it's not chrome. The guide lines up with the "bearing" and the edges are pointed and provide good grip to the dog bolt. I have positioned the dog bolt orientation as the good book suggests. The engine in my TR3 definitely starts quicker when cold than warm (especially if I give it a little snort of starting spray), but I have yet to use the crank handle. I've never seen one started by hand. All I lack is nerve. I don't think I can get that off ebay. -At least I have ambition.
Click to expand...

So the shims I found on the bolt are for positioning the dogs? A wealth of information on this site.

David
 
Yes the shims can be used so that the handle is in the 7 o'clock position against compression , then pull up smartly to 12 o'clock. Never push down !
 
Got the head off with some effort. One stud had some corrosion around it which made removal difficult. The bores look good with no visible wear or scoring.
I am hoping to be able to keep the liners and just run a glaze breaker down the bores. I will check the crank and hopefully only have to replace the bearings. Also the oil seal.
Have not looked at the head yet.
The car came with a collection of gaskets but it looks like they go to other cars. Probable British.

Having to work out of town at the moment so the TR has come to a bit of a halt.
 
The engine completely dismantled now. The bores and crank looked very good. I am having the block cleaned and they will hone the liners.
The shop will check the head and do what is necessary. If the seats are too far gone I will have them replace the seats with hardened seats.
The crank is good so they will check it and polish the journals.

Hope to have it back together next week.

David
 
Just my opinion but... I would go with hardened seats irrespective of how the valves look. Of course this may depend on how you plan to drive the car - but in my experience long fast road trips may result in significant valve recession sooner rather then later.
 
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