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TR2/3/3A TR3A Conversion to Rack-&-Pinion Steering

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Ahh, I did not know that. I guess I ought to check and see if I still have an aperture before spending money on a crank. If the aperture is open, can I assume that it is an original radiator or one that retains the crank aperture?

I've seen you on another forum, Viv. You get around. :-D
 
You will want to eyeball the opening (if there is one) -- you should see the crank bolt centered in the hole. That bolt has a dog on the end for engaging the crank.

Be aware that there are different cranks -- at least 3 that I know of -- for TR2s, TR3As and early TR4s. The difference is the placement of the boss that rides in the cast metal guide.

With care and some practice crank starting can be 'safe & effective'.

crank-it.JPG
 
Geo Hahn said:
You will want to eyeball the opening (if there is one) -- you should see the crank bolt centered in the hole. That bolt has a dog on the end for engaging the crank.

Be aware that there are different cranks -- at least 3 that I know of -- for TR2s, TR3As and early TR4s. The difference is the placement of the boss that rides in the cast metal guide.

With care and some practice crank starting can be 'safe & effective'.
Click to expand...
My radiator has a square hole and I can see a round hole beyond it with a smaller hole in the center of that. I surmise that I have an original radiator (or original-style) and that all I need now is to find the right crank. Anyone want to sell me one?
 
In 1966, I stalled my 1960 TR3 in the middle of a busy 5 way intersection in Chicago. My starter, of course, was junk. Just as the impatient drivers at all 5 stoplights were about to get on their horns, I jumped out of the car, hand crank in hand, stuffed it in the guide in front, brought it up on compression and gave it a quick snap. She lit up instantly ( I had done this before ) I jumped back in and proceeded to drive off to a melody of hoots, beeps and applause. THAT is why I've scrapped (sold) a perfectly good R&P. I was 18 at the time.
 
While the engagement dog on the front crankshaft bolt is the same pattern on all sidescreen cars, there were two crank handles.

You need a TR3A/3B specific handle. The boss on the crank handle that mates with the guide in the nose is in a different position on the small mouthed TR2/3 cars.

Viv.
 
Anyone have the measurements for the different handles? I've got a couple of them, but it's difficult to compare them with the car (since it has no support or radiator hole).
 
Thanks, everyone, for all the helpful hints. I just ordered a crank from a Jag restorer on the other coast of Florida. It looks like the right one for my car and I'll know soon enough.
 
TR3driver said:
Anyone have the measurements for the different handles? I've got a couple of them, but it's difficult to compare them with the car (since it has no support or radiator hole).
Click to expand...

This (I believe) is a TR2 crank:

crank-short.jpg


And this is definitely a TR3A crank:

crank-long.jpg


The latter is the one I bought off eBay & use. That pegboard in the second photo has holes 1" on center so easy to gauge the measurments, i.e. there is about 5.5" of shaft between the boss and the dog.

When purchaing a crank it is advisable to inspect the condition of the tip to assure the 'ears' are in good shape for proper engagement.

CrankTip.jpg


Viv may very well be right that there are only 2 styles -- I never got a good look at the TR4 crank so perhaps it is the same as the TR3A.
 
Below is the tip of the one I just ordered on eBay. The seller will take it back if it doesn't fit. What do you guys think? Am I golden?
Crank.jpg
 
Geo Hahn said:
Be aware that there are different cranks -- at least 3 that I know of -- for TR2s, TR3As and early TR4s. The difference is the placement of the boss that rides in the cast metal guide.
Click to expand...

Had to go look for the part numbers.

TR2/TR3 107863 (1 to 22013)
TR3A/3B 118366 (22014 on)
TR4 131818 (Needs radiator 134456 with starting handle hole)

Interestingly the Roadster Factory lists the TR4 one as current for only $23.95. I wonder if that's a mistake in their database.

Scott
 
I was about to order Moss's conversion kit when I thought to look here and was reminded that I hadn't checked tire pressure in like, forever, so once I upped it from under 20PSI to 32-34, the nearly impossibly stiff steering when parking is now history. Thanks for saving me a ton of money and the relocation of horn and trafficator!
 
Recently working on a TR3 that been done grd up, I experienced hard steering and a rubber squeaking noise. The new nylon bushing and fulcrum pin were binding. I removed it and lubed with antiseize, no more noise, did the other side just in case. Car steers much better.

Marv
 
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