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Tips
Tips

TR2/3/3A TR3 windshield assembly sequence

griff

Senior Member
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Ok, I have a re-chromed windshield frame and stanchions along with new glass, and new TRF install rubber etc. Question is what is the proper assembly sequence (I don't want to get a large portion done to find I should have already done x.

Do I install glass into the two piece frame then attach to stanchions, then to car?

Or, Do I mount stanchions the attached the assembled windshield and frame?


I am also concerned about the two sliding "attachment bars" on the inside of WS frame. When how are they installed (assuming I can find the second one, it seems to be hiding from me).

Advice or tips greatly appreciated.

thanks,

Griff
 
The glass goes into the top 3/4 of the frame first, with the thin rubber/fabric between it and the frame. As I recall, you then put the two little angle pieces into the bottom rail, and install the rail onto the glass, then the 4 screws for the angle pieces.

Add the rubber top & bottom, then attach the stanchions & tenon plates. Be sure you get the right screws in the right holes, some of the screws are very slightly longer and can break the glass if they are put in the wrong hole.

Now you can add the two little curved plates that hold the bottom rubber seal to the stanchions; then mount the whole mess to the car.

It's a lot easier if you remember to install the rearview mirror and little bracket before installing the windshield.
 
And watch the slight curvature on the glass.....right way around or it usually breaks.

Often it is really hard to get the glass into the frame using the rubber sealer. Slippery dish detergent or talc powder can help. Or black windscreen silicone/sikaflex is an option, but messy if you aren't careful. If you go that way, let it dry then trim around the glass with a sharp blade. Sikaflex is harder to get off.

And check the fit of the glass to the frame before starting, as I've had to grind bottom corners of the glass, which were found to be slightly oversize.

Also check that the threads are OK in the frame for the fine screws that hold the staunchions to the frame. They need to grip properly, as there is a lot of pressure on a windscreen at speed.

Don't forget the tenon plate that goes between the staunchions and the glass frame. (sidescreens butt against this). Originally there was a thin rubber gasket between the tenon plate and the glass frame that isn't shown in parts manuals. This helps waterproof the windscreen. It's often left out, which leaves the staunchion screws too long, so they hit and break the glass.

You can make these from a strip or sheet of thin rubber...about 1/16" is OK.

Do this job when calm of mind, and only if you feel you are dextrous enough, as it's a stinker.

Viv.
 
Excellent question and feedback here, I have my windshield surround at the chromers and will be attempting a rebuild as well when it gets finished. I am concerned about the windshield gasket material - I bought some from TRF and it is a rubber roll which looks good but may be a little thick - would probably work great for the shim Viv mentions though. Anyone know if there is a supplier for the clothlike material that was in there originally (at least mine looked like cloth).
 
I echo Randy, this will go into my BCF Tips file. I will be on that project soon.

Thanks, Tinkerman
 
I recently did this project myself -- for this one, do a dry fit (without the glazing) of the glass in the two part frame to make sure the curves are good and that the lower L-brackets are lining up with the holes in the frame -- Also, make sure the two little steel bars on the sides of the upper frame half are installed and the holes are freshly tapped. Attach the stantions to figure how much play you have with the screws--if you feel tension and you know its not being caused by crud in the hole threads, then you're likely hitting the glass and the screw is too long. Keep in mind, your're going to loose a little bit of play when screwing it together because of of the width of the glazing, or at least that's what I was thinking I was putting mine together.

When installing the window glazing, I just taped it to each side of the windshield to hold it in place. The thickness of the glazing was fine, and I used the same TRF product. The big mistake I make was to use WD-40 as a lubricant -- DON"T DO THIS!! It began to dissolve the rubber glazing into a sticky tar like substance. What ever you use-sample the end of the strip to make sure you won't have any snafus like this one.
 
I installed my new glass as per the sequence of steps listed by Randall. But I used several layers of sticky black electric tape all around the glass instead of a rubber seal. It worked but the tape stretched too thin in some places and this let the rain in. So I took it all out again.

I wrote about his some time ago on this forum. I then used a roll of rubber tape that was exactly the right thickness that came from Moss. It worked fine.

BTW, if you change the pegs at the top of the chromed window frame, compare the length of the stud ends on the new ones to the ones you took out. The repros are made for an MG-TD and the stud is longer. If you use these repro studs, you will break your new glass windshield. Cut the studs back to the correct length if required.
 

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Some great instruction and tips. As soon as I find the second of the two steel bars, I will re-thread and start assembling the windscreen.

I will also take the advice to install the rear viw mirror first as well. Of course that delays me slightly because I have to replace the glass in it.

Thanks to all for such thorough rsponses.

Griff
 
griff said:
... As soon as I find the second of the two steel bars, I will re-thread and start assembling the windscreen.


Griff

What are you re-threading?? IIRC, the threads on the windscreen are NOT standard threads, they are BA (British Association).

I've run into a mess of BA threads on the TR3. The two sizes I've come across are 2BA and 4BA.

Info on BA threads
 
I wondered about that, too.

I think he means that he will start a new "thread" on BCF.
 
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