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TR2/3/3A TR3 Steering Box Removal

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Hatman

Senior Member
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I'm in the process of removing the steering box/column on my '59 TR3 and wanted to run a couple of questions by the group before I proceed:

1) Manual says "using a suitable lever remove the centre tie-rod from the drop arm of the steering unit." Is it okay to use a tie-rod fork for this? I wouldn't think putting a lot of force into the steering box drop arm would be a good thing. Should I loosen or remove the bolts holding the steering box to the frame first so it has some "give"?

P2210065-600x448.jpg



2) As it appears I have a split column, am I correct in thinking I can simply loosen the lower pinch bolt and slide the box and the lower part of the column out, leave the upper part still attached to the car?

P2210067-600x448.jpg


Thanks in advance!
 
The "suitable lever" approach frequently doesn't work, as the center of the (probably broken) silentbloc just pulls out instead of breaking the taper joint loose. I find that this type of tool works better for me:
https://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/p-6985-tool-aid-61900.aspx

IMO, impact is the main thing that kills the steering box, it will actually handle lots of force if applied reasonably gradually. In other words, don't go pounding with a BFH if the force can be transmitted to the box, but prying against it is OK.

And yes, you can undo the coupling and leave the upper part of the column in place. Last time I did my 59, I didn't even remove the front apron, and still managed to get the box out and back in (although I did have to loosen the motor mounts and raise the motor a bit). But note that the bolt has to come completely out, it engages a groove on the shaft.
 
Hatman said:
am I correct in thinking I can simply loosen the lower pinch bolt and slide the box and the lower part of the column out, leave the upper part still attached to the car?
Click to expand...

Don't forget the stator tube doesn't split. It extends from the steering wheel through the coupler and out the bottom of the box.
 
Good point! You should definitely remove the control head & stator tube first.
 
Thanks Randall. I think I have one of those floating around somewhere in the shop. I'll give it a try one evening this week and see how it works out.

Thanks for the link, Kevin. I'd seen it before, and, unfortunately, the article begins with the steering box/column already out of the car. It was the getting it out part that I had questions around. Actually, I plan to take the steering box to Macy's for a rebuild once I have it out.

And yes, the control head and stator tube is already out.

Thanks for the help, gents!
 
Just an update: got the steering box and column(s) out of the car last night. Ordered the tool Randall recommended, but when it arrived it was much larger than I anticipated. I futzed around trying to get it to work in the tight confines and finally gave up on it. I went back to my tie-rod fork and found with just a little tapping and levering I was able to get the arm separated from the link.

Took me a bit of head scratching to figure out how to get the box and the lower column out at that point. Finally figured out what I thought was a metal "button" welded to the steering column was just a plastic plug. Popped that out and was able to slide the collar off and the assembly slid right out. :crazyeyes:

P2250011-600x448.jpg


With the cover off, the worm and peg don't look bad, and the bearings don't feel bad. Dropping it off at Macy's next week for a rebuild, so we'll see how it checks out.

Thanks again to everyone for the help.
 
TR3driver said:
The "suitable lever" approach frequently doesn't work, as the center of the (probably broken) silentbloc just pulls out instead of breaking the taper joint loose. I find that this type of tool works better for me:
https://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/p-6985-tool-aid-61900.aspx

IMO, impact is the main thing that kills the steering box, it will actually handle lots of force if applied reasonably gradually. In other words, don't go pounding with a BFH if the force can be transmitted to the box, but prying against it is OK.

And yes, you can undo the coupling and leave the upper part of the column in place. Last time I did my 59, I didn't even remove the front apron, and still managed to get the box out and back in (although I did have to loosen the motor mounts and raise the motor a bit). But note that the bolt has to come completely out, it engages a groove on the shaft.
Click to expand...

Hi Randall, you provided this link to show a suitable tool to separate the center tie rod from the drop arm. https://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/p-6985-tool-aid-61900.aspx The link no longer shows the tool you were referring to. Do you know the name of the tool?
 
I could swear my dentist used one of those on my last visit...
 
The most effective way that I have found to separate tapered joints (tie rod ends, ball joints, steering joint, etc.) is to use the power of the taper.

The concept is very simple. When you compress the part with the internal taper that compression then forces the external taper out.

In practice I back the retaining nut off about 3 turns. I then back/support one side of the joint with a very large weight (like a sledge hammer or large block of steel). I then firmly strike the opposite side of the joint with a 2 pound hammer.

I have more success with this technique than any fork or threaded pusher type tools. Plus this does not damage the boot or threads.

This link is a good reference on this technique. In contradiction to their comment I have successfully used it on aluminum parts. You just don't need to hit as hard.
https://www.instructables.com/id/Splitting-an-auto-ball-joint-taper/

Rusty
 
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