TR2/3/3A TR3 outer sill replacement

[mallard]

Right now I'm doing a pre panel fit test on the car, and getting ready to install the new outer sills.

Should the top of the sill be flat or should it have a slight downward angle? The botton of the door has a slight angle, should they be parallel with each other with this angle?

Right now I have a gap of 1/2" in between the bottom of the door and the top of the sill. Does this sound right, is that enough room to fit the bottom seal on the door? I don't have a new seal at this time.

I have a even door gap all around of 1/8", except at the top were it curves 3/16" Does this sound like the correct gaps?

The door opens fine without any problems even with this narrow gap.

 

[alfa33047]

Keith, you invited over to inspect any of my TR-3s. Bill C. Mesa, Az

 

[mrv8q]

Keith, I'm not a body guy, perhaps these pix will help:

 

[DougF]

The original rocker panels had a slight contour curve to match the door. The new panels are flat. You can can build up the rocker to match the door. Some people do, some don't.

 

[rlwhitetr3b]

You can build up the rocker to match the door. Some people do, some don't.

Do you body filler of something else?

 

[mallard]

Thanks Kevin for the pictures they do help. Is that an original sill on the car?

 

[DougF]

You can use body filler. Fit the door so you can match the contour.

 

[Don Elliott]

If the outer sill is not welded into place you can take a rubber mallett to the inside of the sill and "induce" a curve from end to end and a slight one from top to bttom so you don't need any bondo. That's the way I did two TR3As to get the uter silld to match the curves in the doors. The bottom of the sills should be even with the bottom of the rear quarter panel - providing it is "original" and not a botch-up be someone previously.

Here is mine done in 1989 on my 1958 TR3A. I do not use a rubber stip along the bottom. The gaps are all 1/8" front and back as well as all along the bottom. That's how it was when I bought it brand new in 1958. - but the original seal alog the bottom was there and the space for the seal was also adequate when new.

 

[Don Elliott]

And here you can see the gap and the sill on the late TR3A I finished in 2006.

 

[PatGalvin]

Hi Guys

How do you seal the sill to the quarterpanel. The outer sill is welded top and bottom and the horizontal seam at the base of the jamb is welded to the top flat surfae of the sill. But the vertical portion of the sill has a small gap where it meets the quarter panel. Maybe shoot a little seam sealer there, to fill that small gap? Also, how do you seal the front part of the sill where it tucks under the front wing? Water could find its way in there too and pool at bottom of outer sill. I can follow up with some pics tonight if that would better illustrate my questions.

Pat

 

[mallard]

Good question Pat, I just made sure the replacement sill was clean and sprayed with metal etch primer, and paint in those areas. There are drain holes in the bottom of the sill that will help drain any water that enters. I think a small gap should be left to help draining.

Don thanks for the pictures they do help. I'm glad that I have the same 1/8" gap that your car had when new. Why don't you use the bottom door seal? I know road noise is is not a concern.

 

[tdskip]

I'm planning on spraying a cavity wax into the sills once I get around to doing this on the TR3. Eastwood Heavy Duty AntiRust seems to work well...

 

[Don Elliott]

Keith - The new seals seem to have a larger cross-section and while you can use all those clips along the bottom to hold it in place, you will find you can't compress the rubber foam seal enough and the door won't close. Then you'll do as most TR owners do. They remove the rubber seal. I don't need it to keep water out as I rarely drive it in the rain, but if I do, I remove the seats, tracks and carpets to get it all dry again. If your doors rattle on rough roads, you can add a small felt bumper at the inside bottom of the door. These are what you might use on the bottom of chair legs to keep them from scratching your hard-wood floor.

Be careful on the clearance where the front of the door hinges inwards at the bottom. The relief profile is not enough and you should test that your door opens mounted on the hinges without squishing the bottom front corner of the door outwards because of this, Re-profile it here before you weld the sills into place.

The vertical gap at the rear end of the outer sill should have a small "V" indent to look original. The sills I bought in 1988 for my TR3A as well as the ones I bought for the later TR3A about 2003 were both short at the rear end and I had to add about 5/8" of new sheetmetal there with my MIG welder. A good seal-sealer will make it correct looking. I can't remember, but these vertical gaps may have been leaded to seal them. Body filler is also good, but flexing might crack the finish.

 

[mallard]

Don thanks for the reply. At this time I don't have time to get a picture but I do have a issue with the front bottom corner of the door wanting to touch the top of the sill in the step down area that has the small curve to it. I will get a picture of the problem on Wed. I raised the door on the left side but the gap is very small. The replacement sills that I got are from someone on ebay that says they are the best sills around. They are long enough but don't even come close to fitting. I worked with them for a few hours and I think I got them close. I'm wondering if a set from the big three that are short may have been the best route.

 

[PatGalvin]

I had to cut my EBay sills to shorten them and to achieve a reasonable fit with quarter panel. Here's a bunch of photos for your enjoyment.

Pat

 

[tinman58]

That looks so familar!