Hi tr3 people I was wonder if anybody has installed an original rear main seal lately. I understand that crankshaft has the oil deflector built in. However, I do not want to minimize the installation of the aluminum seal. Some of the literature I have suggests:
1. Check that the two halves of the rear seal bear the same number. These are machined as a mated pair and failure to observe this instruction may result in oil leakage. Shellac the top half of the upper oil seal and attach it loosely to the cylinder block by its four bolts and lock washers. Shellac and similarly fit the lower half of the oil seal to the rear bearing cap. Ensuring that the crankshaft mandrel is clean lay it in the rear bearing housing (without the shell bearing). Fit the bearing cap and tighten down sufficiently to nip the mandrel. Tighten the eight bolts to secure the oil seal to the cylinder block and bearing cap (torque loading of 8-10 lbs.). Remove bearing cap from block.
2. Fit the upper half of the main bearing to the cylinder block; thoroughly clean and lubricate; place the crankshaft in position.
3. Fit the lower halves of the main bearing to the bearing caps, and lubricate.
4. Thread the two top hales of the thrust washers at the side of the center main bearing between the crankshaft and the cylinder block.
It is essential that the white metal side is towards the crankshaft.
Fit the trust washers, one either side, to the center bearing cap and lightly secure with the two bolts and lock washers to the cylinder block. Fit the two remaining caps to the cylinder block with two bolts and two lock washers each.
5. Commencing from the front of the engine tighten the bearing cap bolts to the correct torque (see data). On tightening the rear bearing cap tap the oil seal lightly so that the joint between the two halves is flush.
In the absence of a crankcase mandrel the oil seal attachment bolts will still be loose at this juncture. They should now be tightened to a torque loading 8-10 lbs. ft. The bearing cap must be tightened down so that the oil seal division is flush.
I know this is kinda drawn out, but my questions are what would work best for the Shellac? How important is the mandrel tool?
Regards George
1. Check that the two halves of the rear seal bear the same number. These are machined as a mated pair and failure to observe this instruction may result in oil leakage. Shellac the top half of the upper oil seal and attach it loosely to the cylinder block by its four bolts and lock washers. Shellac and similarly fit the lower half of the oil seal to the rear bearing cap. Ensuring that the crankshaft mandrel is clean lay it in the rear bearing housing (without the shell bearing). Fit the bearing cap and tighten down sufficiently to nip the mandrel. Tighten the eight bolts to secure the oil seal to the cylinder block and bearing cap (torque loading of 8-10 lbs.). Remove bearing cap from block.
2. Fit the upper half of the main bearing to the cylinder block; thoroughly clean and lubricate; place the crankshaft in position.
3. Fit the lower halves of the main bearing to the bearing caps, and lubricate.
4. Thread the two top hales of the thrust washers at the side of the center main bearing between the crankshaft and the cylinder block.
It is essential that the white metal side is towards the crankshaft.
Fit the trust washers, one either side, to the center bearing cap and lightly secure with the two bolts and lock washers to the cylinder block. Fit the two remaining caps to the cylinder block with two bolts and two lock washers each.
5. Commencing from the front of the engine tighten the bearing cap bolts to the correct torque (see data). On tightening the rear bearing cap tap the oil seal lightly so that the joint between the two halves is flush.
In the absence of a crankcase mandrel the oil seal attachment bolts will still be loose at this juncture. They should now be tightened to a torque loading 8-10 lbs. ft. The bearing cap must be tightened down so that the oil seal division is flush.
I know this is kinda drawn out, but my questions are what would work best for the Shellac? How important is the mandrel tool?
Regards George
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smilie in place of the real @
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