TR2/3/3A TR3 not starting - Slow/Weak Starter

[TR3B_guy]

It could be connector issues. Sometimes the connector will come loose, so you might just check that all your wires are nice and solidly connected to the connectors without any play.

 

[Jim_Stevens]

If you need a modern hi torque starter AND you’ve got a press-on ring gear, I can sell you mine… almost new. (I reverted back to my Lucas). jim

 

[CJD]

The horns are "tunable". They can be taken apart, cleaned, and tuned. There is a small rod in the horn that tends to get sticky, causing a sickly sounding horn. It's a good afternoon project. The manual then discusses how to tune them for minimum power and maximum sound.

Also, I would not mess with the trafficator until you test the horn and turn contacts at the node behind the left horn. Break the connectors and test that the wires to the trafficator are going to ground when you push the horn button or move the turn lever. That will determine if its trafficator or systems.

 

[sp53]

+1 with John

 

[sp53]

Hi Jim could you look at your hi torque starter--- if you find time--- and count the teeth on the drive gear. I am uncertain how many teeth are on the hi Torque for the press on fly wheel.

Thanks Steve

 

[Hamish Racing]

This is my powerlite hi torque starter on my 1959 post TS 61*** car bolt on ring.
If it helps
But I see that revington say that the press on ring uses a 9 tooth starter

MOTOR STARTER GEARED TR2-3

9 Tooth Pinion used with early shrunk on 91 tooth Ring Gear. For later cars with a bolt on ring gear please see RTR8201K

www.revingtontr.com

 

[sp53]

Thanks Hamish I could not find that information. The one I got on Craigslist has 10 teeth. My bet it is for a later 3 or 4. I wonder if I could just put the 9 teeth gear on mine and have back up. Any idea where I could get a 9 tooth or if gear comes off easily with a puller?

steve

 

[Hamish Racing]

I can only talk about my powerlite type.
I had a securing clip break and they sent me a kit.
I made a plate to make the job easier
An alternate gear should be available from your starter manufacturer
Don’t use a puller hold the shaft out and push back the cog on the spring and you should see the retaining clips and collars

 

[sp53]

Thanks Hamish so much for the nice linear picture layout.

The British used the same type clip on the early starters. It took me a long time before I figured out how to get the early type apart. The parts for the early starters have been difficult to find for over twenty years. There was a time when the rubber sleeves where not even available at all. I guess my next move would be to go Hi Torque with the starter.

I would like to ask if you think the parts for the early starters might be available over in England in some rare hidden auto motive store perhaps hidden in Scotland, ha ha. I did find a tractor starter manufacture on line with new starters that might work out, but again I would to see the starter in person.

Thanks steve

 

[LarryK]

Ebay.uk is a favorite of mine. I was looking for an oil filter set up for a 56 chevy 6cyl. Here in US were $250-$300. Found one in Germany for $40, bought and found it was shipped from Fla. Being ebay and paypal I still watch for near 100% sellers. Find a lot of parts for my Jags, Rovers and Triumph in the UK. My 64 Valiant made right here it St. Louis got it's parts from om UK and Mexico. You never know, it just takes time to look.

 

[Batgirl63]

Battery is brand new and tested with multimeter. 12.7V+/-. Lights come on and are strong. Horn problem may be the control head contacts in the steering wheel. I took off all the ground straps and starter cables... sanded and cleaned the connections (except for the crazy one by on the engine block that I can't get a wrench on the nut side of it at the moment)

Tried the suggestions of bypassing the body ground with a jumper cable from ground to block... no change in result.

That pretty much leaves me with a dead starter. What's the best way to take it out and what should I replace it with? Hi-Torque or rebuilt or new?

Car is up on jacks for now, so I do have bottom side access.

Thanks for the advice!
Rich

I had the same problem with my 72 Spitfire and it was the starter solenoid. I replaced it and it started right up.
KBJ

 

[Hamish Racing]

Thanks Hamish so much for the nice linear picture layout.

The British used the same type clip on the early starters. It took me a long time before I figured out how to get the early type apart. The parts for the early starters have been difficult to find for over twenty years. There was a time when the rubber sleeves where not even available at all. I guess my next move would be to go Hi Torque with the starter.

I would like to ask if you think the parts for the early starters might be available over in England in some rare hidden auto motive store perhaps hidden in Scotland, ha ha. I did find a tractor starter manufacture on line with new starters that might work out, but again I would to see the starter in person.

Thanks steve

Steve
I think these guys are a popular go to for starter service

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londonessexautoelectrics.co.uk

They may need persuading to deal parts in North America ???
Sorry can’t help more I went with a high torque - I still needed spares but they were readily available

 

[Jim_Stevens]

Hi Jim could you look at your hi torque starter--- if you find time--- and count the teeth on the drive gear. I am uncertain how many teeth are on the hi Torque for the press on fly wheel.

Thanks Steve

Sorry for the delay— I didn’t see this til now. Nine.

 

[RichB4493]

Sorry for the delay— I didn’t see this til now. Nine.

So after two or 3 rebuilds of the starter, I finally broke down and bought one from www.britishstarters.com. It installed perfectly and starts nicely.