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TR2/3/3A TR3 No Start...Again. Help?

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bnw said:
The wider plug gap will force the coil to produce a hotter spark. Most modern coils can handle that. Back in the day, the stock Lucas coil probably couldn't. Keep in mind the HEI GM ignition systems of the 70s and 80s. High energy ignition, .080 plug gaps. Hotter spark, more complete ignition, lower emissions, etc.
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The spark temperature remains the same: ridiculously hot. The wider gap just makes a longer spark. It does help reduce emissions, particularly when the mixture is too lean. But IMO you won't see any improvement in mileage or power.
And you will see an increase in problems with other components like rotor, cap, and wires (which GM also upgraded for their HEI).
 
So is the consensus that I should keep them at .025" then?
 
Consensus is tough to get on a web forum!

But I'd keep them at .025 - at least until you get your starting problem figured out. After that, the tweaking begins!

Tom M.
 
NutmegCT said:
Consensus is tough to get on a web forum!

But I'd keep them at .025 - at least until you get your starting problem figured out. After that, the tweaking begins!

Tom M.
Click to expand...

Makes sense, and what I figured I would end up doing. Thanks Tom.
 
You replaced the condenser too?
 
Good grief - I admire your patience!

OK - your first post:

"Changed the oil on Friday and now she won't start. Verified fuel in carbs and verified spark by pulling a wire and using a screwdriver to jump gap to car body."

So it was cranking, firing, and idling until after you changed the oil.

Now it cranks - but doesn't fire at all.

You've verified you're getting spark at the plugs with that screwdriver test.

Is there any way the four plug wires might have got mixed up? And/or the timing screwed up?

Like the distributor somehow got rotated on its shaft, or the plug wires aren't in the right order, etc.

Tom M.
Edit: and you've checked that your new points are gapped correctly, and opening properly - and there are no loose wires inside, or attached to the distributor?

 
Well, I'm trying to force myself to learn some things, so that's why the patience. I'll have my intro up soon that will explain a lot.

I was having some issues about a year ago but then it seemed to start anytime I wanted it to once I got it down to NC and replaced the leaky fuel line.

I'm new down here so I don't know anyone that can come help...which at this point I'm ready to call in. A neighbor mentioned he knew somebody. I'll work on tracking him down tomorrow.

I verified all wires are correct and secure.
 
You have no idea how I wish I lived near Concord NC! I'd love to poke around and try to locate *a loose wire*! (or something ...)

You've got fuel (fresh?) and air going into the cylinders.
You've got high voltage spark at the plugs.
You've got compression.
You've got all new ignition parts (wires, plugs, points, etc.)

Now all I can think of is timing. Yeesh ...

I think what I'd do at this point, is contact the president of a North Carolina classic car clulb, explain the issue, and ask for a member to come take a look.

https://www.ncmgcarclub.org/

Contact: https://www.ncmgcarclub.org/contact-us/

Tom M.
 
Well don't give up ! You're probably close . Sorting out the weird stuff is all part of it and a TR3 is a great car to learn on, its all basic stuff.
 
Air / fuel/ spark ratio. Make sure the hood is down, perhaps your air ratio is out of balance w/ hood open. Sounds crazy but I have seen it before.
 
You need to see spark at the plug. Just grab any old plug then unplug one of yours and plug that one in. “all the other plugs can remain in the car” now put some gloves on and hold the tip off the plug against the head or any engine bare metal and crank the car. You want to have spark right at the gap of the plug. If you do, then pull your plugs and take a picture or a good look. They are probably fouled out. it happens a lot with these cars
 
Did that with the old plugs and again with the new ones. Observed good spark both times.
 
I would loosen the distributor pull the choke so that you can see at least a ÂĽ inch of the needle seat has pulled down(stick something in outside both carbs to hold jets open I use a small piece of 1/4 bent U shaped sheet metal) spray so some starter fluid in and turn the distributor towards the driver fender. It should start!!!
 
OK, here's an update. I let the car sit for a few days and decided to give it another go. Someone suggested spraying starter fluid in before turning the engine over (I spray fluid while turning over after reading an article years ago about that being better for the engine...whether that's totally valid or not who knows). Anyway, it started and stayed running. It didn't idle fast like it normally would on full choke and was thinking about stalling (I attribute this to it just being cold...and it did stop wanting to stall once it warmed up some).

I figured maybe I had turned the corner so I went out and picked up some gas. Came back home, filled up the tank and went to start it...no go. I sprayed some fluid in and tried it again. Still no start.

So, I have spark, verified by testing plugs and it firing. I have fuel as it kept running once started. What the heck is going on here???

Am I having some sort of weird flooding issue?

It fired after sitting and starter sprayed before it was turned over.

VS

All times previously spraying fluid while engine already turning over (albeit briefly before spraying). And then trying again about a hour later after it ran to start with out fluid and having no start...then spraying fluid and trying again and it wouldn't start.
 
Dan, run that jumper from the neg lead on the battery to the neg or switch side of the coil. You need to eliminate trouble with the ignition switch, as they will play up just like yours. If that doesn't work we need to set a time for me to come down to your place.

Wayne
 
Got it started again but running a little rough. Wants to stall and has if I put the choke back in or don't keep the rpm's up. This is the same issue I was having a year ago. Black smoke too. So I'm going to lean the mixture out first and see what that does.

Wayne, I'll try that and let you know what I find.
 
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