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Tips
Tips

TR2/3/3A TR3- New harness install, wiring questions.

Hopefully you got lucky, and it was only the in-line fuse that blew.

But the dimmer for the panel lamps is an unfortunate weak spot in the design. If it is set to dim the lights at all (or even just doesn't make good contact at the "full bright" position), it will usually not pass enough current to blow the in-line fuse (even with the right fuse installed), but will burn itself up.

Also the main headlight switch, ignition switch, and much of the wiring are not protected by the fuses.

One thing that I find helps when doing the "smoke test" is to temporarily connect an old headlight bulb or similar in series between the starter solenoid and the brown wire. It will pass some current, but not enough to damage the wires or switches. If the bulb comes on full bright, you know you've got a short or heavy load (something trying to draw more than just a few amps) somewhere.
 
Check out Brosky's site. Rheo I think he has a detailed "how to" on the Rheo rebuid.
It is a weak spot and many of us have removed ours.
 
Well, it looks like I worked my magic. No burnt fuses so I guess I fried the dimmer.... a item that has survived since the car was probably built and along comes me. It only took me a few minutes too.

I have to order new switches this week. Is it possible to delete the dimmer so I can continue working on the wiring? even temporarily would be good.

I am going to have to be more careful the next time.

Thanks
 
hermanmaire said:
Is it possible to delete the dimmer so I can continue working on the wiring?
Sure. You can just short across the two terminals, or connect all the wires together and remove the dimmer entirely.

Earlier TRs didn't even have a dimmer; instead they had a switch of the same type used for the (single speed) wiper switch. Installing a switch instead of the dimmer might be one way to go, but the switch shaft is a bit smaller and your panel will have the larger hole. You may need to use a flat washer behind the panel when installing a switch.

Someday, if I ever manage to run out of better things to do, I hope to build an electronic substitute for the dimmer that is protected against short circuit, etc. no matter what position it is in. But it's not likely to happen any time soon :frown:
 
Ok,

I have a spare New!! lucas switch, I'll hook that up.

I hope I got this right but at the "control box" with the deleted wires out of the way, it seems kinda empty so I get the feeling its not right. Heres what I have connected to it.

Large blue/brown tied together with large white/brown- connects to A or A1
F - not used
D- not used
E- black wires + ground to bulkhead.
 
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