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TR2/3/3A TR3 gas tank

RonR

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Folks,

The current gas tank on my TR3 needs cleaned and sealed. It also has one of the baffles laying on the bottom of the tank. I have contacted the comnpany that gave a presentation on radiators and gas tanks at VTR last week and he says he can pop-rivit the baffle back in-place. I assume the sealer will seal around the rivits.

My question is, would it make more sense to just buy a new tank, which might cost $100 more? If so, does anyone have a preference between The Roadster Factory, Moss, or VB as a source for new tanks?

Thanks,
Ron
 
Ron,
I've purchased tanks for TR3 and MGA from "AngelheartPancho" via Ebay. If I remember correctly the guy's name is Jorge Cervasa. Nice guy and great product. He's in San Diego, Ca. I highly recommend him. He also makes new bumpers and overriders, amoung other things. PKPoole
 
I recently bought one of his late tr3 tanks in steel for $200+ shipping.Looks good,fit nice on trial fit.
Some of the sealers commonly used(Im most familiar with vintage motorcycle tanks) have issues with methanol,so I try to avoid them unless necessary ,say to save a rare or unreplaceable tank.
Tom
 
PK and Tom,

Did Jorge's tanks come with the correct fitting and thread for the fuel line outlet?
Are his tanks galvanized/zinc plated?
 
Ron,I retapped my outlet for 3/8 npt,because I am using swagelock compression and Stainless fuel lines.ISTR that the supplied thread is 5/8 nf,I think as original, which can be retapped to 3/8 npt by just running in the tap.I am going to just plug the vent with straight bolt and washer,and drill small hole inside cap,as per Randalls suggestion.
Tom
Tom
 
Ron,
Yes, his tanks are nearly identical to OEM dimension but the material is a bit heavier. The fuel tap, drain plug and vent are all as original. As I recall, you have to specify which version (RH/LH fuel line tap) which depends on the year model for your car. It installs as the original with little effort.

One little note: He will supply a new drain plug with a thick nylon/plastic washer and also a thick gasket (of the same material) for the gas gage cover. I found that the material tends to "squeeze" unevenly resulting in possible leakage. I use the standard (Moss) fiber washer and paper gasket. Good luck. PK
 
Folks,

As a follow up, I elected to purchase (for more money) a fuel tank from The Roadster Factory rather than angelheartpancho (Jorge Cervera) on ebay. Several Austin Healey people has strong negative opinions regarding the quality of the tanks he fabricates for their cars.

Jorge's attitude was horrible when it came to answering questions regarding the quality of the fuel tank and his return policy.

Ron
 
Ron,
Thanks for the feedback. I didn't have any problem with my tanks ('58 MGA and '60 TR3A) and I waited for his "Free Shipping" sale. Couldn't beat the price and I have no complaints about the quality. Pat
 
Folks,

Today I received the new TR3 fuel tank fromn The Roadster Factory.
The drain plug is not per the original design. Rather, it is a threaded steel plug without a fiber washer, similer to the transmission filler plug and similar to plugs used on steel plumbing pipes and gas pipes.

My question is, what type of sealant could I use on the plug threads that would be resistant to gasoline?

Thanks.
Ron
 
Gasoline thread sealer
Like this
TeflonPipeDope.jpg
and
TeflonPipeDope2.jpg


Courtesy of Bobby's site
 
Thanks for the help. I was able to find the Hercules brand at my nearby locally-owned-by-the-same-family-for-almost-100-years hardware store. I do know how lucky I am to have them so close.

On another fuel tank related question, I purchased the rubber grommet that goes in the opening in the rear shroud for the gas filler/gas gap. Assuming this is the correct part, I cannot get the thread of the gas cap through the grommet so that they can engage the giant nut thing/extension below the sheet metal. Is there a trick other than oiling the grommet and threads? Perhaps the grommet is the wrong part and all that is supposed to be there is a big rubber or fiber washer.

Ron
 
The rubber grommet is only for the later cap assembly without the threads. For the earlier cars, I believe there should be only a big fiber washer.
 
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