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TR2/3/3A Tr3 Gas pedal height from floor

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sp53

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Hi all, we had a nice day in the Seattle area today, so I dug out my 58 tr3 and took it for a drive. It had not been driven for some time. Anyway the 58 seems a lot different than the 61. I have only driven the 61 about 25 miles, but they seem so different. For example, the gas pedal is an inch and a half high up in the 58. If I take a straight edge across the brake and clutch pedal and measure down to the gas on the 58 it is 2 3/4 and 4 inches down on the 61. What I want to do is bend the pedal up on the 61 an inch or so, but I want to leave it in the car when I do it. Does anybody have any suggestions on how to hold the pedal and bend it up cold, better yet has anyone bent the pedal when it is in the car? This one of those things where experience is nice.
Steve
 
Don't you have any adjustment in the linkage that you could change, instead of bending the pedal?
 
sp53 said:
Hi all, we had a nice day in the Seattle area today, so I dug out my 58 tr3 and took it for a drive. It had not been driven for some time. Anyway the 58 seems a lot different than the 61. I have only driven the 61 about 25 miles, but they seem so different. For example, the gas pedal is an inch and a half high up in the 58. If I take a straight edge across the brake and clutch pedal and measure down to the gas on the 58 it is 2 3/4 and 4 inches down on the 61. What I want to do is bend the pedal up on the 61 an inch or so, but I want to leave it in the car when I do it. Does anybody have any suggestions on how to hold the pedal and bend it up cold, better yet has anyone bent the pedal when it is in the car? This one of those things where experience is nice.
Steve
Click to expand...

The rod to which the pedal is welded is not adjustable since it is pinned to the end of the cross shaft. Same thing with the lever which is pinned to the other end of the cross shaft. If these pins fell out at some time in the past the PO may have reattached them using another means such as drilling another hole or using a set screw. (I have seen both methods employed). This would have changed the intended alignment Another possibility is that the carb linkage rods have been mis-adjusted and need to be returned to their correct position. See diagram below.
linkage.jpg
 
Hi hear you Frank I had the shaft out when I sandblasted the tub and put new pins in the shaft. It looks like the pedal is just different/bent. I did purchase the vehicle in pieces with the engine out and whether the PO bent it I do not know. I looked at another shaft I have and it is difficult to compare with the others. Once the engine is in I find those shafts a hassle to take out because of all the bends. The reason I posted the problem was that I was hoping the problem was common, but? The linkage seems to work fine my fear is that when I get the carpet in the pedal will be a problem.
 
I agree, not a good thing to try to bend in the car. If you twist off one of those pins, you will not be happy!

First make sure that lever 47 is clamped to the throttle shaft 37 so that with the throttle closed it makes about a 45 degree angle to horizontal. Then set the short link 77, so the bellcrank 79 does the same. Then you can adjust pedal position (if still necessary) using the long link 78.

You might also want to examine the joint between 79 & 80 for wear. Mine was so badly worn that not only was it losing a lot of motion, but the bellcrank was dragging against the bolt head and causing the linkage to bind.

BTW, Frank's diagram shows TR2 carbs. But the linkage should be the same on your TR3.
 
Steve I can take some pictures of my pedal assembly on Sunday if you would like. You maybe able to see if they are bent the same, let me know. They are not in the car, they are hanging on the wall.
 
This is how I recall slightly adjusting the accel pedal for heal and toe driving back in the comp days.

A suitable width wedge of timber was inserted between the accel cross rod and the underside of the clutch/brake pedal pivot cover. This chocked the cross rod to take any pressure off the carby linkages.

Then we grabbed the top part of the accel pedal where the rod is welded on and pulled it gently forward.

Viv.
 
I like it Viv it appeals to the carpenter in me. I am going to check some of the angles that Randall talked about to see if it can be adjusted. The leakage I used was stuff I collected over the years and perhaps the long rod is too long or short or something, but I do not know if there would that much adjustment. Keith I was trying to find a way of establishing a method to see the bends, but there are just too many bends to correlate to establish what is bent and what is not.
Steve
 
Here's a shot of the linkage from TS39781LO. The bends above the pedal are no doubt from over-enthusiastic operation, but it was working fine before the car got wrecked. BTW, the pedal stop should stick through the carpet.

DSCF0003.jpg
 
TR3driver said:
The bends above the pedal are no doubt from over-enthusiastic operation, but it was working fine before the car got wrecked.
Click to expand...

The accelerator pedal in the TR3 racecar was too low for me to heel-and-toe when I bought the car. The arm was bent over the stop.

I can only imagine that the PO tried to go faster by pushing harder and harder on the pedal, bending it!

I took the whole assembly out and straightened it with a BFH so I could heel-and-toe.
 
Thanks Randall for the pic. The area between the pedal and the 90 that returns through the firewall is where I think there might be a problem with mine. Some place in there is where I might try a bend if I cannot adjust it out. There could have been some over enthusiastic driving there also. I check my linkage and the long rod is 14 and the short is 3 ½ and the clamp 47 is less than 45, but I think that would give it more pedal in the cab. I did notice that the bell crank could go in two ways, but I do not think it would make a difference.
steve
 
Speaking of gas pedals, the gas pedal in my 58TR3 is very, very stiff. I've gotten used to it, but anyone else who drives it comments on how clunky it feels.

Someone said it may be the return spring.

I think something needs to be lubricated. But I read somewhere there are some spots on the accelerator linkage that should not be lubricated.

Any guidance will be appreciated.
 
Ed, firstly check in the footwell that something like carpet isn't chafing the accel pedal rod. Check that nothing is binding on the accel rod where it crosses behind the engine.

Then try disconnecting the carby linkages from the accel pedal to locate which end of the gubbins has the problem.

A convenient place to do this is behind the rear carby. Unbolt the throttle rod linkage pin from its thread in the accel lever. I think it takes about a 3/8" AF spanner.

The long and short throttle rod swivel unions have to be free and lubed, as does the bell crank axle under the front carby.

The carby spindles have to rotate and return to their stops freely.

The accel pedal rod rotates via a nylon bush at each end, clamped between the mount brackets.

Regards,

Viv.
 
Some other problems I've had over the years:

1) The balls in the joints tend to wear oblong. If someone has tried to snug them up with the adjustments, they can bind at the limit of rotation. In my case, they were actually holding the throttles open slightly, making it impossible to get a consistent idle rpm. Replacement is the only reasonable solution (although there may be cheaper sources than the usual LBC suppliers).

2) If the RH motor mount is signficantly sagged, the long link can drag on the underside of the intake manifold. Took me a long time to find that one!

3) PO had replaced the mills pins with bolts, which had worn the holes and produced large amounts of play.

The nylon bushes should not need to be lubricated, but IMO it won't hurt, and a very small amount might help. All of the other joints do need to be lubed, and preferably disassembled and cleaned every decade or two IMO. Don't forget an occasional drop of oil on the throttle spindles themselves. For the front side, I just put a drop on top of the return spring, and rely on vacuum leakage to eventually pull it into the shaft/body joint.
 
All good advice and guidance. I will give all this a try and see if I can make the pedal operate smoothly. Many thanks, as usual,
 
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