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TR2/3/3A Tr3 frame repairs recommendations

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So thanks everyone for chiming in and giving advise. I am going to attempt the repairs myself. I picked up some 16 gauge metal and took some measurements for bending up some metal. I made it longer then what I neede so I can adjust on the fly. I am trying to find a spot welder to borrow or I might fab it all up and take it to a shop to spot well, still deciding.
Here is how it came out:

34875953994_acb6ea22ec_z_d.jpg


I also had had another win with the rear front spring pin. I have been cleaning on the frame and spraying on these bolts for about two weeks. I finally reread the thread on pin removal and decided today was the day. I am happy to say they both came out with a little fight. A little buffing and Emory cloth and they slide quite nicely now. I have to pick up some anti seize for reinstall. Now to get a gas bottle.....money, money, money

note the d shaped cut out on the bolt

oh the picture.
34875958504_123560510a_z_d.jpg
 
Yes those D bolts can be a real pain=== glad to see you got them out because fixing a leaf spring is a real bummer if that D bolt is stuck. I think you are on the right track and are pretty close to doing it all yourself.. John is correct, it is very difficult to find a talented craftsman for anything less than top dollar.

Money money is the song, but I bought a nice MIG on Craigslist list for 200.00 and then had to buy a purge bottle separate for 100.00 with gauge and all. Welding is not that difficult. Everything has to be clean on both sides so you do not get crap in the weld that hurts the final outcome. I do not see any structural problems on your frame that stuff in front and towards the very front is more cosmetic than structural, so go for it.

steve
 
That patch will look very nice! You can also weld it with your MIG. Either drill holes and weld through the holes to the underlying metal, or just run a bead along the edge where they meet. You will be the only one who knows it was not an actual spot weld, and it will be just as strong if not stronger.
 
Yes plug welding would work perfect right there, just straighten out that one piece with clamp or big bar against floor or whatever works. Get everything thing shiny clean even the new metal, grind off the surface to shiny metal; drill some holes in workable spots fill in the holes with hot weld, and they will look like spot welds=== then move to the next headache/challenge and feel fulfilled, next.
 
Here is a little progress, I have picked up the proper size pig iron tubing to reinforce the body mounts and the rear spring mount. The rear mount is a 1" outside diameter 1/8 inch tubing wall piece. The body mounts take a 1.25 inch outside diameter 1/8 inch wall tubing ...still need to hunt down the piece to rebuild the lower control arm stop mount.
34926904584_91ee0fa38d_z_d.jpg
 
Hi JP,

The body mount outrigger is not necessary to reinforce unless you really want to...the rear tube is the important one.

Cheers
Tush
 
So the thread is on slight hold cuz I need to get the welding bottle but even worse is I am thoroughly frustrated with the garage setup right now. It is a cluster and I have to get a better handle on it. Total redesign going on and I am tossing a bunch of crap... be back soon
 
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