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TR2/3/3A Tr3 frame repairs recommendations

Tr3aguy

Jedi Knight
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So thanks to everybody helping me up until now getting the frame all disassembled. I have some spots that need repair and I need to reacquaint myself with welding. I am also looking at paint versus powered coating and the cost is a factor.

What I need are recommendations on what else needs to be done to the frame to keep it in great shape. I know I saw a reinforcing kit on the web somewhere for the rear shock mounts but can't find it now. What else should I look for??

thanks
JP
 

charleyf

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JP,
I don't claim to be an expert but in my restoration experience with TR3's and TR4's, I have only done a thurough inspection of the frames and repair of areas where I found cracks. I had no rusted out areas. I have never seen any need for additional support at the rear shock mounting. One TR 4 had apparently been used as a race car and I found cracks at the front suspension- frame area as well as the transmission mounts.
One other thing you might want to check is to make sure the frame is straight. If you have the shop workbook it gives you the information on how to do that.
Charley
 

sp53

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A frame is heavy enough that having someone else sandblast it would be ok, but tell them your fussy and be careful or do it yourself if you have the stuff or can get it/rent it. The first thing is to degrees the frame. A good sand blasting shop usually will not take a greasy frame. A pickup truck and a car wash and the high pressure stuff with some solvent and you are good to blast it. Then you will see more clearly any problems. It depends where the car lived. Like back east salting can ruin it where you better off getting a different one because they are hollow and open in spots. People love the west coast frames because we do not salt the roads. It just depends=== post some pics of the bad spots.
steve
 

TomMull

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I had cracks around the lower fulcrum pin attachments for the front suspension. Also might want to reinforce the outriggers. I used plain old enamel on mine. Powder coat is over restoring, in my opinion. Chassis black from Eastwood or similar might be another option.
Tom
 

M_Pied_Lourd

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Weld a pipe inside the tube for the rear pick up points for the leaf springs. Added protection in case your original mount cracks and fails...

Cheers
Tush
 
OP
Tr3aguy

Tr3aguy

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So here I got the frame to workable height and this picture shows some of the worst spots...

I think it looks fixable??


34706430773_6dae75982d_z_d.jpg
 

M_Pied_Lourd

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Yeah, you got this! Your frame looks pretty good. A little welding here and there and your golden.

Have fun.

Cheers
Tush
 

TomMull

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sp53

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Nice, I painted my car powder blue. The TS is the commission number of the car, like TS 27036 that is what I am working on now. As far as I know, the 58 and 59s had the colored frames whatever colors was in the paint gun at that moment then later they went all black. Not sure about the earlier stuff and if they had colored frames or not, but I am sure about the 58 and 59 and their odd colors.
steve
 

ghawk16

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After tearing my frame completely down and having it blasted then primed, I wish I had it powder coated. I thoroughly cleaned the primer of any grease, oil, dirt, etc and using Eastwood spray on paint it chips VERY easy. And that's after numerous coats and good wait times between coats. I'm kind of bummed because if I even hit a wrench on it, it chips. It won't last long to rocks flying up and the primer is gray so it shows really easy. As for welding, on my TR4 I had them straighten the frame and fix any crap welds around the front suspension. The frame had no rust damage so all was good there. Anyway, I would pay the extra and go powder coat like another member did. His cost was insanely low though since he is in the south.
 

sp53

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In my limited painting experience, it sounds like you used too much activator in the paint and those paints get so hard they chip regardless. I spent a lot of money and time restoring my diver years ago and painted the top ribs body color with the same paint to match the color of the car. That paint on those ribs chips very easily, taking the top off or hitting it with something by accident.

I have no experience with powder coating, but it sounds very durable and would be a good idea.

On the car I am restoring now, I used a single stage oil base paint with no hardener, the paint stays kinda soft and is easy to touch up. The paint I used is the stuff that industrial machinery is painted with, and I am cool with it plus=== it was 45.00 a gallon.

The body shop wants to sell a paint that is made special for frames and is for 50.00 a gallon and but it looks it. I believe it was single stage also, meaning you just paint it right out of the can without adding any catalyst chemicals.
steve
 
OP
Tr3aguy

Tr3aguy

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Well it is a bit worst than I imagined. I wire wheeled it up and it just crumbled. Looks exactly like the top is good which will help with keeping it aligned but not sure I have enough good metal to hold a weld. Since I am not the best welder do you think I should put in in a truck and take it to a metal shop??
Where is the best place to get the metal tubing the bolts run through?



35650844195_54ceda0bf7_z_d.jpg
 

malbaby

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I suggest taking the frame to a shop that is experienced in metal fabrication.....having the folders, welding and guillotine equipment.
 

CJD

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Google "discount steel supply", and you will likely find a metal supply in your area. Even better are the scrap metal dealers. They are much cheaper, but take some investigating to find your proper metal size.

It's really your call on the repairs. In my experience, you will either pay $200 an hour for a decent welder, or you will not be happy with the work they do. And that is why I don't trust anyone else doing my repairs. The frame is a great place to start, as it stays under the car, so any learning issues remain hidden...and it gets you the practice for the detail work later.

To do your frame repair, I would say that you will need, as a minimum:

MIG welder
14 or 16 gage steel strips, about 2-4 inches wide
A cheap Northern cut-off grinder with plenty of discs
A 4-1/2" body grinder

Of course other tools speed the job, but are not absolutely essential.
 
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