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TR2/3/3A TR3 Clutch Master Cylinder

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mrv8q

mrv8q

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Looks like I'll be spending some time w/ my clutch hydraulics:

IMG_1246.jpg


What's led to this waxy buildup?
 
Kevin
Do you have a fitting (adapter) between your brake/clutch line nut and the master cylinder? I don't see one but may not be visible in the photo.
Pat
 
I'd guess the waxy buildup is leftover "brake grease" from when they were last serviced. The special grease (which used to come in a little sachet with the rebuild kit) turns hard over time.

Or it might be corrosion from not changing the fluid often enough
DSCF0002_cropped.jpg


Pat, the adapters were only to fit later replacement cylinders; not used with original cylinders. Here's a shot by Don Elliott, showing off his correct early MCs with the straight fittings. Later cylinders had angled outlets, but still no adapters.

115391.jpg
 
What's funny (to me) is that the clutch side is crusty, while the brake side is fine. No matter, I'll go thru both brake and clutch systems; I'm eager to investigate Randall's brass brake juncture.
 
While on this topic, I was wondering if the 2 master cylinders aree the same? They sure look it to me.

I see an aftermarket supplier on eBay who sells them from $35.00 - there are 2 different part numbers for them however.
 
So does my official Standard Triumph parts book. They are identical.
 
:iagree: as fitted to the TR3. But nearly identical cylinders were available in different sizes and used on other cars.
 
Is it possible that the internal spring might be different between the clutch master cylinder and the brake master cylinder. For the last 20 years (103,000 miles) I have different springs inside mine. I can't remember which has which.
 
Apple Hydraulics will charge $10.00 more for one than the other. I think it was the brake cylinder. They said it had to do with a valve of some kind. They did both of mine and they look the same. I did not take them apart though. If you do have the cylinders with the staight up fittings make sure they rebuild yours. They are getting hard to find. The person I talked to did not even know about the straight up connections.
 
I have recently taken my original master cylinders apart and can see no difference in internals,confirmed by pn 310660 Girling on both,unless some PO changed one.
Tom
 
Don Elliott said:
Is it possible that the internal spring might be different between the clutch master cylinder and the brake master cylinder.
Click to expand...
As Moses said, the SPC literally has one listing for both brake and clutch. I can only guess that one of your springs was replaced at some point and the other was not.

The spring isn't too critical anyway. As long as it doesn't run into coil bind at full stroke, and is strong enough to overcome the wavy washer, it should work fine. The replacement I got from Moss (which they list only for a TR4 MC) worked just fine, but was somewhat thicker wire than the original.
 
It's easy to criticize vendors for poor quality parts and I have been vocal about this issue. So, I thought it would be important to provide positive feedback when a vendor does something good. It's only fair.

Check this out for authentic reproduction of brake/clutch master cylinders. Unlike earlier units, these do not require the in-line conversion fitting. I compared the casting to an old original and they are identical. The price is reasonable, also. Two of these are going in the 'Lady' this weekend!

https://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=92822
 
Cool! Now if they would only reproduce the original cylinders for the first 19k or so TR3s with Girling brakes (as shown above) :laugh:
 
Frank,

Thanks for the first hand information on those! I agree that price seems *very* reasonable. So how long do hydraulic parts last on the shelf since I'm probably a couple years from starting on mine? :smile:

Scott
 
HerronScott said:
Frank,

Thanks for the first hand information on those! I agree that price seems *very* reasonable. So how long do hydraulic parts last on the shelf since I'm probably a couple years from starting on mine? :smile:

Scott
Click to expand...

I don't know what the shelf life should be, but I was impressed by the quality. They didn't even have much white mold release on them, like someone actually bothered to clean it off. I would think that 2 years would not be a problem - just my intuition.
 
Well, none of them "require" it, as it's not that big a deal to bend the pipes to accommodate the angled port version. And I don't know how many of those roughly 19000 TR3s that had the straight port originally still exist; but there are at least a few around ... Don's & mine if nothing else.

But I probably wouldn't buy repros from Moss anyway, as I still want to try my hand at resleeving them. Someday ...
 
When I originally bought TS23677 back in about 1985, it had one straight ported cylinder, and one angled, which also had the adaptor fitting on it. I assumed that the angled one was changed along the way. Since it was on the brake master side, I rebuilt that one (as the bore and piston was in very good shape) and used it for the clutch master and bought a new master for the brakes. Both of these cylinders now have the angled fitting with the adaptor.


Unfortunately, the day I decided to put a post 60k body on TS23677, all ideas of originality went up in smoke. :laugh:
 
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