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TR2/3/3A TR3/4 Oil Pan Gasket

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Baxter's ,not familiar with that store and you live in the same state.
Is that an O'Reilly's sub?
 
Say's my local O,Reilly's has it
Never seen it there
85249c.jpg
 
They actually say on the site that mine has it in stock.
Is this a bait and switch?
 
I checked the stores in your area. They say to call.
Mine says in stock
 
DNK said:
Baxter's ,not familiar with that store and you live in the same state.
Is that an O'Reilly's sub?
Click to expand...

I don't think so, O'Reilly's took over the Shucks around here, but I think Baxter is independent.

I checked their web site, they have a few stores as far north as Tacoma, but most are in the Portland area (and a few in Northern CA).
 
George:

Once again I thank you most warmly for your offer of help. I have never removed the oil pan myself, so if you could send me a photo of what I should expect to see therein, I would be mighty grateful indeed. I really would like to try replacing the gasket. (I think I can do a better job than the shops simply because I spend much more time on these "simple" projects than it is economical for them to spend. Time -- I have plenty of.)

I don't know why the shop left off the lock washers under the bolts (screws)when putting a new gasket on my oil pan, but I definitely will take your advice and put some on. However, I'm not sure I understand the procedure you recommend for tightening the bolts: "back and forth working from the center of the pan outward". I just can't picture it in my mind. Can you be a little more specific? Some have said that I should tighten them criss-cross method. That, too, somewhat escapes me. I assume these recommendations are like the procedure for tightening lugs on a wheel: tighten opposite lugs, etc.

BTW. When I ordered new bolts (screws) for the oil pan from Moss last year, they sent bolts but no lockwashers. The bolts and the lockwashers are shown on p.6 of their catalog, but only the bolts (screws) are referenced (#44) and there is no reference or price for the lockwashers. The Triumph Spare Parts catalogue shows the screw (#37) but no lockwasher. You are right , as usual, the gasket is available. Also, with the Moss bolts (screws), they were all the same length, although Randall points out that one should be shorter (?) and two are longer (?) Can someone pinpoint for me where the oddball screws are used?

On my present oil pan, one screw (bolt)has a lockwasher. I am wondering now if this was done by the shop guys in order to make it "shorter."


Randall: I have discovered my mistake in searching for the TRF gasket. When I entered the proper part number, I entered into the search for the Magic Carpet Factory Complete Catalog ONLINE and not the "Parts Database. My mistake! One more question. The TRF catalog shows 2 gaskets as required. Why 2 and not one?
 
LexTR3 said:
However, I'm not sure I understand the procedure you recommend for tightening the bolts: "back and forth working from the center of the pan outward". I just can't picture it in my mind. Can you be a little more specific?
Click to expand...
I'm not Geo, but maybe this will help: First, install all the bolts finger-tight. Then torque the center bolt on the LH side, followed by the center bolt on the RH side. Now the bolt just forward of center on the LH side, followed by it's mate on the RH side. Then the bolt just rear of center on the LH side, followed by it's mate on the RH side. Lather, rinse, repeat.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]
Some have said that I should tighten them criss-cross method.[/QUOTE]Same thing, close enough. I'm not actually convinced it makes much difference, since the pan is just sheet metal and the torque is so small. But it certainly won't hurt anything to do it that way.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]The Triumph Spare Parts catalogue shows the screw (#37) but no lockwasher.[/QUOTE]
As always, the illustrations are not always complete or correct. However the lockwashers are listed in the text (as "spring" washers, visible at the bottom of the image I pasted above).

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]Can someone pinpoint for me where the oddball screws are used?[/QUOTE]
The short one goes at the front center of the pan. The two extra-long ones go on the LH side, the two nearest the back of the pan as I recall, where extra things go under the head. One is the stiffening rod (brace) for the clutch slave; the other is the support for the road draft tube.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]
On my present oil pan, one screw (bolt)has a lockwasher. I am wondering now if this was done by the shop guys in order to make it "shorter."
[/QUOTE]
Could be. That is why I mentioned checking the length of all of them. (Or you could reasonably just replace all of them.) The 16 "regular" bolts should be 3/4" from the tip to the bottom of the head. The 'short' one in front is 5/8" (which you will have to buy as either a specialty item from an LBC supplier, or cut down yourself from a longer bolt). The 'longer' ones are fully threaded 1-1/4" (which may also be a bit hard to find in the hardware store).

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]One more question. The TRF catalog shows 2 gaskets as required. Why 2 and not one?
[/QUOTE]
Where do you see that?
 
Hi, Randall,

Very, very helpful. Thank you for making this clearer for me.

I'll see what I can do with the oddball bolts. For the shorter ones, perhaps I can take a regular bolt and add a couple of washers until I get the right length, as I suspect the shop guys did. I may have to "wing" it on the longer one, unless I am lucky enough to find one.


As for the 2 gaskets, when I call up the item in the "parts database" for purchase, the box marked "number required" comes up with 2. Don't know why. Perhaps they know me too well and figure that I'll screw one up before I get it right!
 
LexTR3 said:
...I'll see what I can do with the oddball bolts. For the shorter ones, perhaps I can take a regular bolt and add a couple of washers until I get the right length, as I suspect the shop guys did. I may have to "wing" it on the longer one, unless I am lucky enough to find one...
Click to expand...

Got a 1-1/4" (5/16 28 tpi) bolt just today at Ace hardware - about 25 cents.

For the shorter one, one way is to thread a nut on a longer bolt (say 3/4") then hacksaw or grind it down to the length needed. Dress the end a bit with a file, then unthread the nut. Taking the nut off after you have messed with the threads should clean them up enough for it to work. Of course if you have a 5/16" 28 die that would be the best way to clean up the threads of a cut bolt.
 
I am curious what you did with the old bolts Ed. My experience has been do not through anything away. The original bolts are usually embossed with “auto R” on the head and will work on several applications on that vehicle, plus they give things that original look. In fact, I will bet the old bolts would work fine and perhaps be a better quality than you would get from Moss. Sure replace the lock washer, but this application is low torque.
Steve
 
Geo Hahn said:
Got a 1-1/4" (5/16 28 tpi) bolt just today at Ace hardware - about 25 cents.
Click to expand...
Fully threaded ? The ones I've seen have unthreaded shanks. Oh, and just for clarity, the pan bolts are all 18 tpi (which is probably what you meant).
 
LexTR3 said:
I may have to "wing" it on the longer one, unless I am lucky enough to find one.
Click to expand...
Hopefully this is obvious, but they are all available from TRF.
 
While the oil pan is off ,does anyone know of a good method to repair a hole in the oil pump screen? Seems every screen I've seen has a bole worn in it from vibration!
 
Many thanks.!

Steve: As for the old bolts, the shop that replaced my gasket probably threw them away when they put new bolts on (but not lock washers). As I remember the old bolts, however, they were a hodge-podge of bolts put on by some former owner. Some were in poor shape, some were put on with three or four washers, etc. Looks like someone just picked up whatever bolts were lying around their shop and put them in.

The bolts in there now were put in by my shop guys. I gave them 16 bolts from Moss, but they may have used their own.

The torque given for these bolts is 14 to 16 ft. lbs. Does that sound right to you? Another guy who has written about this procedure says that he guesses it is 7 to 10 ft. lbs. I have been using 15 ft. lbs.

George: Good recommendation for making the bolts shorter. And I will go to the hardware store to see if I can find the proper 1 1/4" bolt.

Let's see: instead of 15/16 28 tpi, I need a 15/16 18 tpi bolt. Is that right?
 
TR3driver said:
Geo Hahn said:
Got a 1-1/4" (5/16 28 tpi) bolt just today at Ace hardware - about 25 cents.
Click to expand...
Fully threaded ? The ones I've seen have unthreaded shanks. Oh, and just for clarity, the pan bolts are all 18 tpi (which is probably what you meant).
Click to expand...

Boy, did I ever make a dog's breakfast of that.

What I actually bought was a 1" x 5/16 18 tpi. Thus it was fully threaded.

I had one old bolt that was longer and it was 1" so I got a second one to match that. Looks to me like 1" will work fine as that's an extra 1/4" and that is equal to the thickness added by the slave bracket support.
 
I was able to order the following bolts from BoltDepot by the piece (very reasonably priced):


Stainless steel hex 5/16 18tpi x 3/4"
Stainless steel hex 5/16 l8tpi x 5/8"
Stainless settel hex 5/16 18tpi x 1 1/4" fully threaded

these bolts are also available from TRF "parts database":
16 100749
1 HU.855
2 105220

I asked about gaskets. Moss has a paper gasket (no cork available) and TRF has a rubberized card stock gasket (no cork available).
 
Bear with me, please. I need to revisit the placement of bolts holding the oil pan on.

I have checked everymanual that I own, and none speak of some of the bolts being shorter or longer. The assumption is that all of them are the same size.

But in this thread mention has been made to three lengths:
16 are 3/4"
One is 5/8"
and two are 1 1/4"

I will go what has been said in this thread (19 bolts; two long, and one short).

But where to place them is still not entirely clear to me -- or at least I just need confirmation. No mention at all in any of the manuals. Randall has written "The short one goes at the front center of the pan. The two extra long ones go on the LH side, the two nearest the back of the pan as I recall." I will put the two longest bolts into the last two holes in the LH side, just before the turn of the cover.

It's a mystery to me why the manuals don't mention this variation of bolt sizes:
Service Instruction Manual, Haynes Owners Workshop Manual, Autobooks Owner's Workshop Manual, etc. This just underscores how important this Forum is.
 
karls59tr said:
While the oil pan is off ,does anyone know of a good method to repair a hole in the oil pump screen? Seems every screen I've seen has a bole worn in it from vibration!
Click to expand...
I assume you are talking about the classic problem, where the screen wires break right at the surface of the solder joint between the screen and the end of the pickup tube ?

I took some bare, solid copper wire (20 AWG IIRC) and laced it in through the screen and over the tube, then twisted the ends (like safety wire) so it held a bit of the screen outside the solder joint to the tube. Repeated that 3 or 4 times as I recall, maybe 3/16" or 1/4" apart.
Then I cleaned up the original screen with a wire brush and some Tarn-X, and soldered the broken ends to the existing solder blob.

That seemed to work well for several years, but I didn't really trust it, so I later replaced the screen with a new one (TRF had a sale) and added the wires as above for reinforcements. Someday when I've nothing better to do, I'll have to pull that engine apart and check my handiwork :smile:

ISTR I got the suggestion from Ken G. at BFE, but I can't lay my hands on the note at the moment. It might have been in "Tech Talk" (a 3-volume collection of tech tips from the TRSC newsletter that has been NLA for many years) (the collection, not the newsletter).

Hmmm, it's been a long time and the club has not done anything (AFAIK) about making "Tech Talk" vol 1-3 available again. Last I heard, the orignal plates had gotten lost somehow. Maybe I should ask permission to copy them and release as PDF files. Much of the information is out of date, but some of it is still applicable.

The wire trick might also be in one of Kas Kastner's new books (but I don't have them handy to check either).
 
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