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As the outdoor projects wind down, I am looking at beginning to re-assemble the TR3 parts onto the Ratco frame. Does anyone have any experience with the new vertical links with negative camber, or with the three degree castor trunnions? They are available new from a number of suppliers but are quite pricey. Swapping in a used assembly from a TR4IRS or later model would be more economical, but is there enough improvement to be worth it?
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TR2/3/3A TR2/3 Front Suspension Upgrades
- Thread starter WiscTR
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- front suspension tr2 tr3
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Seems like if you were looking for a real suspension upgrade, a rack and pinion set up with the TR4A negative camber trunnion/vertical links would be nice on a TR3. Don't know if the TR3 Ratco frame would accommodate the rack and pinion, but worth looking into.
Dan
Dan
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The Ratco frame is powder coated and foam filled. No opportunity to practice welding on the frame -- I am saving that for the body panels �� I made the decision to not change to R&P steering before I purchased the frame.
The castor/camber change is being considered because of corrosion in the upper arms and bends in two of the three vertical links that I have available.
I just don't know how much improvement, if any, will result from these proposed changes. Obviously, originality is not a concern with the new frame.
The castor/camber change is being considered because of corrosion in the upper arms and bends in two of the three vertical links that I have available.
I just don't know how much improvement, if any, will result from these proposed changes. Obviously, originality is not a concern with the new frame.
TR4nut
Yoda
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Sorry for not chiming in earlier. On the TR3A project I recently sold I converted the TR3 setup to a late TR4 setup with the castor built in. Easy change, used later trunnions and then was able to use upper arms/balljoints for the late TR4-TR6. As to driving change, well, I never got that far!
Does your Ratco frame have a setup for the lower arms that lets you adjust camber, or is it just like a TR3/4 frame? If you haven't seen it, Tony Drews has a very good writeup on how to upgrade to TR6 parts here:
https://tonydrews.com/Front_Suspension/tr4_front_suspension_upgrade.htm
The vertical link is stouter so may be an improvement for you - I was considering doing the same thing. But note you may need to add spring spacers to the front to get the ride height you want, the vertical link change will lower the car.
Does your Ratco frame have a setup for the lower arms that lets you adjust camber, or is it just like a TR3/4 frame? If you haven't seen it, Tony Drews has a very good writeup on how to upgrade to TR6 parts here:
https://tonydrews.com/Front_Suspension/tr4_front_suspension_upgrade.htm
The vertical link is stouter so may be an improvement for you - I was considering doing the same thing. But note you may need to add spring spacers to the front to get the ride height you want, the vertical link change will lower the car.
Hi, Here are a couple more links that might help:
https://www.tr3a.info/Net.htm scroll this for a couple of good front and rear suspension discussions
www.tildentechnologies.com/downloads/TRsuspension.PDF
I have the Revington Upper Fulcrum Kit, (RTR3112K) on my TR-3a. If you go this route, read the Revington pdf sheets carefully. It can easily cost double with the parts that are needed to finish the job. In addition to what's listed on the sheets, added the TR-4A front brake lines because I am running the TR-6 15"x 6" wheels. The TR-3 brake line rubbed the tires with the new front end settings.
Good luck, Roy
https://www.tr3a.info/Net.htm scroll this for a couple of good front and rear suspension discussions
www.tildentechnologies.com/downloads/TRsuspension.PDF
I have the Revington Upper Fulcrum Kit, (RTR3112K) on my TR-3a. If you go this route, read the Revington pdf sheets carefully. It can easily cost double with the parts that are needed to finish the job. In addition to what's listed on the sheets, added the TR-4A front brake lines because I am running the TR-6 15"x 6" wheels. The TR-3 brake line rubbed the tires with the new front end settings.
Good luck, Roy
2long,
Thank you, I have a copy of 'More Bs about TRs' -- it's quite interesting. I met Bob Schaller in the 80's at a Triumph convention in St Charles, IL. Quite the character and he had many TR stories.
Didn't even look at the TR today -- must have been one the few days all year when the weather in WI was nearly as nice as the weather in HI��
Thank you, I have a copy of 'More Bs about TRs' -- it's quite interesting. I met Bob Schaller in the 80's at a Triumph convention in St Charles, IL. Quite the character and he had many TR stories.
Didn't even look at the TR today -- must have been one the few days all year when the weather in WI was nearly as nice as the weather in HI��
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TR4nut,
The Ratco frame is mostly a heavy duty copy of the TR frame, although I believe that Tony V. could make whatever you wanted -- might cost you a bit, though
Thanks a bunch for the Tony Drews link. It has all of the info you would want about making the change -- now, it is worth it?
The Ratco frame is mostly a heavy duty copy of the TR frame, although I believe that Tony V. could make whatever you wanted -- might cost you a bit, though
Thanks a bunch for the Tony Drews link. It has all of the info you would want about making the change -- now, it is worth it?
TR3-rg,
Thank you.
The Tilden Tech link is more than I can get into on a post Packer game evening��, but looks to have some good info.
Can't believe that I forgot about TerriAnn's NetNuggets.
The Revington kit is the one that is welded once you have everything sorted, isn't it? Will check it out. Man, Revington has a lot of really interesting stuff, don't they? Wish the budget was bigger -- or even that my connection was faster than DSL��
Thank you.
The Tilden Tech link is more than I can get into on a post Packer game evening��, but looks to have some good info.
Can't believe that I forgot about TerriAnn's NetNuggets.
The Revington kit is the one that is welded once you have everything sorted, isn't it? Will check it out. Man, Revington has a lot of really interesting stuff, don't they? Wish the budget was bigger -- or even that my connection was faster than DSL��
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I added to the "pockets" of the upper a arms, slotted the upper ball joint mounts and moved the ball joint inwards. Use washers between the bolts and a arms, weld the washers to the a arms when you have them adjusted to the desired camber. I can post some pictures when I get home if you like. I can also measure how far I moved the ball joints inwards, iirc (more doubtful as I get older) it was about 3/8".