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I have purchased a new rubber seal that seals the trunk lid. Would someone be kind enough to send a photo of correct install? coinsunc1@aol.com It can obviously only go on one way. Option 1-With the lip folding inward to the trunk opening or Option 2-with the lip folding away from the trunk opening. I believe but am not sure it should fold inward toward the trunk opening. Thanks in adavance for your help. Tom
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TR2/3/3A TR-3A Trunk Rubber Seal
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Don Elliott
Obi Wan
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Mike - For your small-mouth TR3, you will have different seals for the boot lid than the ones shown in the photos above. My "early" 1958 TR3A and all TR2's, TR3s and TR3As up to TS 59999 have a seal thet fits down into a slot. These early cars also has square corners for the seals. Mine came new with one piece straight along the top (just below the fuel filler cap and the rest was a single separate piece that went down one side, across the bottom and up the other side to join with the one across the top. It was held into the slot with contact cement but since I did my restorsation in 1990, the new seals are not glued into place, They stay where they should down into the slots.
As an added point, the length of seal across the top has shrunk about 1/4" and the upper corners may not be as hermetic as they should be. But then, I rarely drive my TR in the rain. This top seal piece is down in the slot and the seal lip is facing towards the rear of the TR. But I can't say if this is correct or not, but I still have the original bits from when the TR was new and I wouldn't have knowingly reversed it.
The seal lip for the other piece is facing outwards on each side and, naturally still as one piece the lip extends outwards at the bottom towards the rear of the TR. On the RHS, this lip half covers the slotted hole for the boot lid stick.
As an added point, the length of seal across the top has shrunk about 1/4" and the upper corners may not be as hermetic as they should be. But then, I rarely drive my TR in the rain. This top seal piece is down in the slot and the seal lip is facing towards the rear of the TR. But I can't say if this is correct or not, but I still have the original bits from when the TR was new and I wouldn't have knowingly reversed it.
The seal lip for the other piece is facing outwards on each side and, naturally still as one piece the lip extends outwards at the bottom towards the rear of the TR. On the RHS, this lip half covers the slotted hole for the boot lid stick.
What Don said above about the two pieces for the the trunk seal was something I did not know. It does make sense though. While trial fitting my deck lid to the 56 TR3 the top part of the seal was to thick, and would not let the lid close. Don if you see this did you trim some off the bottom of the seal?
vivdownunder
Jedi Warrior
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Repro early trunk lid seals supplied in strip form are difficult to fit neatly at the corners. If just bent around the tight corners, lip out, the lip sits too high at the bottom and the lid won't close right down. I've had to trim a bit off the lip at the bottom corners with a craft knife. Next time I tried mitred joins which was a lot neater.
I've also had to cut some off the bottom of the seal, which is a tedious job. I ended up running around it with scissors, as the underside isn't seen once glued in. I like to glue the seal down with a silicone bead, then close the trunk lid so the seal finds its ideal level in the channel.
Cutting a single piece to go across the top like Don's car had originally, lip facing into the trunk, provides better water sealing around the upper hinge bolts. I always cut the surplus thread off the upper bolts. If the cut end offends, the threads can be turned around in the hinge.
Trunk seals are a much easier job on the later cars with just a turned up edge around the trunk for the seal and radiused corners.
Viv.
I've also had to cut some off the bottom of the seal, which is a tedious job. I ended up running around it with scissors, as the underside isn't seen once glued in. I like to glue the seal down with a silicone bead, then close the trunk lid so the seal finds its ideal level in the channel.
Cutting a single piece to go across the top like Don's car had originally, lip facing into the trunk, provides better water sealing around the upper hinge bolts. I always cut the surplus thread off the upper bolts. If the cut end offends, the threads can be turned around in the hinge.
Trunk seals are a much easier job on the later cars with just a turned up edge around the trunk for the seal and radiused corners.
Viv.
CJD
Yoda
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So, 7 years down the road I have seen both styles. The above is for the post 60k. Here is the "pre":
Note: You will note I did not glue the upper corners (actually they pulled apart after gluing). After a lot of input and study, I realized that water will not flow uphill! So as shown works fine. I never re-glued.
Note: You will note I did not glue the upper corners (actually they pulled apart after gluing). After a lot of input and study, I realized that water will not flow uphill! So as shown works fine. I never re-glued.
Interesting John, you did the tr2 Don Elliot style. I gots to say it looks right. I put mine in the channel one piece and not cut to length and did not glue it yet because I figured it might shrink. Now that I see that photo, I am going pull it and copycat. Don had great stuff to share!