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TR2/3/3A TR-3 SCUTTLE VENT ROD INSTALLATION?

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Bob_Burt

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While removing my '58 TR-3A dash rail for recovering, I inadvertenty pulled the vent rod all the way out (knob + rod). Anyone have any idea on how to reattach the wire to the vent control arm?

Thanks, Bob Burt
 
The wire is attached with a set screw -- sort of down low on the articulated arm.

You may have to undo the hinge pin on the arm and slip out the 2 springs to get the flap open far enough to work down there.

It's been several years since I had mine all apart so I do not remember for sure the assembly order but I think that wire would be the first thing you would hook up, then everything else.
 
That's good news. I had visions of removing a panel below the dash (including the heater) to get at it. I'll try it.
Thanks, Bob
 
Aloha Bob,

As Geo said the rod is secured with a set screw. Saying it is the easy part. Open the scuttle vent with your fingers if it isn't open already. There is a flat bar link that is attached to the scuttle (this end may be riveted) and the opening mechanism at the other end with a machine screw and nut. I find that if I disconnect this bar I can open the vent much wider and get better access to where the rod connects. The pull/push rod is insert through a a hole through a brass cylinder that goes across the bottom of the opening mechanism. There are additional piece added to mechanism to create a "Y" wide enough for the rod to pass between the legs of the "Y". The brass cylinder has a set screw at one end to clamp the rod to it and rod between the "Y" keeps the cylinder from falling out of the hole. The opening mechanism rotates around the brass cylinder as you open and close the scuttle. An off set screw driver and a small wrench are the tools needed, but a good flash light and a helper to fiddle with the knob would be helpful.
 
If you know any 3 year olds with small hands and good 'small motor skills' (My wife the kindergarten teacher taught me that term), that would sure help. I've had to reconnect that rod a couple of times. When you get it back together add some locktite or something to keep it from coming loose again.
 
Thank you all for the help. Dave, you were right on with your description. It took me about 2 hours(by myself) to figure out all the geometry and get the rod attached. I ended up:

1. Removing the spring (only one on my '58).
2. Unscrewing the vent hinge plates to get enough access.
3. Pulling the whole mechanism out to see how it worked.
4. Removing and cleaning up the cylinder.
5. Loosly reattached the hinge plates.
6. Feeding the rod back in, tighing everything up and reinstalling the spring.

The hardest part was to get the hole in the cylinder aligned with the rod. Look, try, turn it a little, try again, etc. GREAT PLEASURE when it went in!

The recovered dash rail (I used black everflex) is on and what an improvement! And the scuttle vent opens and closes!
 
Couple months ago my 1 year old Moss Motors pull rod disintegrated, with me holding the knob and one part of the rod in one hand and the car holding the remainder of the rod neatly hidden away within the scuttle.

Not a high priority issue, so I wasn't too concerned. But the part came in the other day.

This thread was very fortuitous. (Yes, my son is studying for the SAT, how did you know?)
 
Depending upon were the knob separated from the rod, you may be able get it to reappear by opening the vent by lifting up on it. I've used super glue to reattach the knob to the rod in the past.
 
Re-opening this thread to see if anyone may have a photo or part number of the "brass cylinder" needed to attach the rod.
Is the part even available or is it something I will need to try to make myself?
 
Here is a photo of the mechanism ...

P1040125.jpg


The part kind of reminds me of the stop that is on my TR6 hood opening cable....


https://trf.zeni.net/TR6-TR250GB/327.php

RFK 836


Cheers
Tush
 
Let me try to describe the drawing I made: A 1/4" dia. X 5/16" long brass rod. With a # 36 drill, drill the length of the rod and tap with a 6-32 NF tap. Next , drill a 1/8" hole cross-wise in the center. Your rod goes thru the 1/8" hole and you need a 6-32X1/4 HEX HEAD screw to grip the rod. Hex head is a lot easier to tighten than a slot and screw driver arrangement. on the other end of the tapped hole put another short screw, good only as a means of keeping the bugger installed on the fork. Any help? Le
 
Much help, thanks. I have several feet of 1/4 in. Brass rod from an old curtain rod that will give me plenty of
material to ruin several, as is my custom.
Thanks again LE & Tush
 
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