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Timing for fun and economy - can it be done?

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vping said:
Try contacting Jeff at https://www.advanceddistributors.com/. real nice & helpful. There is a curve worksheet to fill out & send to him for your needs & his prices are good. I just sent my TD dizzy out on Monday but I'm hoping it can be saved as it was a mess.
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Rick, do yourself a favor and contact Jeff at Advanced Distributors. Tell him what you have and he'll set up the proper dizzy, with the right numbers, just for your engine. You don't even have to send him a core. He will also give you the benefits or pitfalls between points and electronic ignition on your setup. In some cases, points are better. I personally would not put electronic ignition in my car. It ran 30 odd years with points and I'm sure it will run 30 more. Jeff will recurve the dizzy just for your engine for max. performance. As I said in a previous post, after installing a rebuilt dizzy from Jeff, my engine runs better than it ever did since I've had it and I bought it over 20 years ago.JMHO. PJ
 
Thanks Paul, I have sent Jeff a message.
This sounds like the best thing I can do for my car, I'm sure it needs this.
 
I think I would save the 99 bucks and redo the rockers.
 
Jack, how long (or how many miles) should a new set last?
The PO did this with the head rebuild not too many miles ago.
I have not made any inspection of them whatsoever, other than driving.
 
For our life time as long as they are getting good lube.
 
jlaird said:
For our life time as long as they are getting good lube.
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I agree with Jack Rick! If they were rebuilt not that long ago and if their getting lubed well, they should last until the next complete head rebuild. That's a long time!. JMHO. PJ


Hey Jack! Where's Niceville? I can't seem to find it anywhere.
happy0148.gif
 
PAUL161 said:
jlaird said:
For our life time as long as they are getting good lube.
Click to expand...

I agree with Jack Rick! If they were rebuilt not that long ago and if their getting lubed well, they should last until the next complete head rebuild. That's a long time!. JMHO. PJ


Hey Jack! Where's Niceville? I can't seem to find it anywhere.
happy0148.gif
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That's where Miss Agatha lives. Must be a really nice place!

I just did a deal with Jeff, he plans to get a unit done for me tomorrow. WooHoo! /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/banana.gif
 
Niceville is just across the bay, north, from Destin. Half way between P'cola and Panama City.
 
I'm a little confused (that's an improvement, eh?)if the rockers should last a life time, then wouldn't the dizzy be the better investment? Also Moss lists the rocker assembly as NA, so that would mean piecemeal replacement correct? I am reading up on this and one important point that keeps being stressed is that the engine and car really is to be considered as a unit and to think that boosting one part of the engine's peformance isn't going to impact the other parts is dangerous at best.
I still haven't even done a compression test on mine, but am always listening to get max performance/fun out of it.
 
19_again said:
I'm a little confused (that's an improvement, eh?)if the rockers should last a life time, then wouldn't the dizzy be the better investment? Also Moss lists the rocker assembly as NA, so that would mean piecemeal replacement correct? I am reading up on this and one important point that keeps being stressed is that the engine and car really is to be considered as a unit and to think that boosting one part of the engine's peformance isn't going to impact the other parts is dangerous at best.
I still haven't even done a compression test on mine, but am always listening to get max performance/fun out of it.
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Agreed - the whole car has to be considered.
But I like to break problems up into smaller units that I can handle. That's just the way I have always done it. So I work on one area, then work on another and so on.
Sometimes work on one area leads directly to work on another. Like carburettor adjustments can lead to valve clearance questions and timing and distributors etc...
I have found that if I attack one thing at a time until there's no question about it that leaves me free to focus on the next thing. There's always "the next thing".
 
Let me be a bit clearer, I think I would save the money spent on a electronics dizzy and have the old one rebuilt stock, I would also consider this for the rockers and shaft.

https://www.rockerarms.com/Austin.htm

and as previously mentioned this for the dizzy, back to stock.

https://www.advanceddistributors.com/

Now you good for the rest of your life time and maybe the next guy as well.
 
Thanks Jack- Thats what I am doing with Jeff & the dizzy.
Since I am using this car every day I am buying a rebuilt unit from him, then sending my old one in.
 
I'll take a good look at the rockers when it warms up a bit.
Too dang cold out there in January!
 
Have no clue what condition my Duzy springs are in but all else seems like new and I have had it all apart.

Still, I would feel better if it was looked over on an old Sun machine.
 
I pulled out my timing light for the first time in 20 years and guess what? It doesn't work any more. (shocking!!) /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/eek.gif

Any suggestions on what to get to replace it?
 
Rick, I got a flyer from Moss yesterday with free gifts if you buy so much in parts, one of the free gifts was a timing light. There may be info on their site, haven't checked. BTW, cold is New England. Zero and below last two nights, course we don't get 10' snow at a whack like you guys.
 
Thanks, I got that one too.
However I think I would spend less on a light than I would on the order to get a free one! Not that making a nice fat order wouldn't be fun...

I lived in Anchorage for a while, and had the opportunity to make trips to the north slope to make electrical repairs on the living quarters.

It was cold up there. Every where else I've ever been where it was "cold" just couldn't compare.
 
Hi Rick,

I would buy a Craftsman adjustable unit with inductive pickup. ( Traditional Sears timing light or cool new-fangled timing light)
The dial allows you to decide where the timing s/b at any RPM and all you have to do is look for the 0-deg. mark to show up because the light corrects advance. You can also use it see where your ALL-IN timing is or, for that matter, any timing that is over the 15 or 20 degrees the pointers the engine has.

I bought mine at a garage sale for $8 (They threw in a dwell meter and remmote starter!) and I use it all the time.
 
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