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Ticking from right side airbox

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equiprx

equiprx

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Someone suggested the Supplementary Air Valve is causing the
noise. Does noisy indicate imminent failure? I can't hear it
while driving. Only with the bonnet up and my head under the
hood. Could this be responsible for a FF 44 code.

The FF44 code refers to the O2 sensor failure. In the parts manual assembly drawing of the O2 sensor, the same page shows the power resistor. What is the relationship between the two?

I'm tired of replacing parts, at great expense, only
to get the same result, a persistently reoccurring error
code and a check engine light. I need to start thinking of
getting the car smogged in December or dump the car. I
should be putting money into getting the body work done and
painting it. All that would be a waste, if I can't continue
to drive the car because of a check engine light.
 
On several other forums, I have said (and been yelled at for so doing), unless you know the vehicle, the systems, and what exactly codes mean, all you've done by buying a code reader is to support the code reader manufacturer.

If you take it to a shop, THEY have a code reader, probably better than you can afford, with data stream capabilities.

You're going to have to take it to them anyway, so avoid the reader.

O2 sensor "failure" can be a rich injector(s), vacuum leak, corroded plug, all that and more.

At least it used to be.

If your reader says it has failed, period, okay. If you're just getting a code for O2, look further.
We used to have breakout boxes, pin outs, voltage readings at pins, all that stuff, kinda like a Sam's Photofact.

No idea on the clicking, but I did read that reply on the other forum.

Dave
 
TOC said:
On several other forums, I have said (and been yelled at for so doing), unless you know the vehicle, the systems, and what exactly codes mean, all you've done by buying a code reader is to support the code reader manufacturer.

If you take it to a shop, THEY have a code reader, probably better than you can afford, with data stream capabilities.

You're going to have to take it to them anyway, so avoid the reader.

O2 sensor "failure" can be a rich injector(s), vacuum leak, corroded plug, all that and more.

At least it used to be.

If your reader says it has failed, period, okay. If you're just getting a code for O2, look further.
We used to have breakout boxes, pin outs, voltage readings at pins, all that stuff, kinda like a Sam's Photofact.

No idea on the clicking, but I did read that reply on the other forum.

Dave
Click to expand...

Dave,
This is an OBD I system, so there are no readers other than the Jaguar PDU that the dealers used to have. However, I do have 'on board diagnostics' which gives me the error codes and I have the error code list to let me know what it means.
So far, I have changed out the O2 sensors, both cats, found some vacuum leaks, changed the plugs, wires and cap and rotor. I have installed a number of new ground straps and cleaned out the throttle bodies. The o2 sensors are working and I changed out the ECU. No where does it mention in any of the literature any relationship to the power resistors but they are on the same assembly drawing as the o2 sensors. That is what is puzzling me. What relationship, if any, do they have to the O2 sensor.
 
Power resistors.........memory banks.....used to be Injector related.
Had a bank of them, one per.
You changed the O2's, still have O2 failure readings?
 
TOC said:
.....
You changed the O2's, still have O2 failure readings?
Click to expand...
That is correct.
 
Okay, take your emissions analyzer, warm it up, place the probe in the tailpipe, and record the readings you get idling and at oh, 2500. This will tell us rich or lean, since the system you have doesn't seem to have data stream capabilities to read real-time data from the O2 sensors.

What you are looking for is low or high, as in way off the scale, that is outside the range of adjustment from the sensor.
I am guessing a 2003 works somewhat similar to the last EFI and computer systems I worked on, what, 12 years ago?
 
I don't have an emissions analyzer.
 
If we can't read data stream numbers on O2 levels, see the shift back and forth to know where the centre point of the sensors are, cannot read if lean or rich (actual) and by how much in the pipes, I suppose we are right back at throwing parts at it.
 
What model year and what model are we discussing?

On my 90 V-12 XJS, the auxillary air valve is a a 2" diameter solenoid valve that only works when the air conditioning is turned on. It adds air to raise the idle when the load from the compressor drags the idle down.

What does the noise sound like? If hissing, it is because air is sucked trough the 5/16" tube. Try listening with the air on, turn it off and see if the sound goes away.
 
It's a 94, XJS, 6.0 liter v12.
The noise sounds like tapping, coming from the passenger side air box, not from the air pump, head, cam covers or intake manifold, thankfully. I have not tried to see if the frequency changes with revs. I did pull the auxiliary air pump relay to disable the pump but that had no effect.
 
How about an exhaust leak at one of the manifolds??
 
Jesse,
I've thought about that, but it's ridiculous trying to get in there to check.
That is one of the things that would result in the FF 44 engine light code.
It would also fit in with my theory, that it was something the transmission mechanic did at the time it was rebuilt, since that was the first time it came up.
I can't see any obvious signs of leakage like a sooty connection.
Things are so tight down there I can barely get my hand to it let alone around it.
Will a standard leak detector react to an exhaust leak?
 
How about an emission machine? It sucks replacing exhaust manifolds and/or gaskets. I have plenty of 5.3 manifolds, not sure if they are the same... I use a short little Mercedes tool kit wrench to get to some of the bolts way in the back. There is so little room to manuver a wrench there, and that works OK.
 
I remember reading that some 6.0 engine have a ticking because the tappet gUide was a little oversize. The article said it wasn't something to be concerned about.
 
maynard said:
I remember reading that some 6.0 engine have a ticking because the tappet gUide was a little oversize. The article said it wasn't something to be concerned about.
Click to expand...

This noise is definitely on only one side. Does that still fit in with the tappet guide issue?

Went back under the hood to see if I can get more information.
The frequency of the noise changes with an increase in the revs.
The noise is more pronounced with the air cleaner off.
 
Pull the cover and filter from the right side air box. The Auxillary Air valve plugs into the R/H air box from the backside toward the front. There will be a hose running from the valve to the R/H intake manifold. There are two wires that connect to the valve.

Run the car with the air conditioning on. Is the clicking present?

Turn off the air conditioning. Is the clicking present?

Disconnect one of the two wires to the valve. Is the clicking present?

It is an electrical solenoid. When open, it adds enough air to overcome the amount of RPM drop that occurs when the air conditioning compressor is engaged during idle.

You can tell if it is open by placing your finger tip on the tube sticking into the air box.

What your problem sounds like to me is that the solenoid is rapidly opening and closing due to a poor connection or because the valve is failing. If that is what is happening, you should be able to feel the solenoid clicking.

Does the problem occur when the engine is cold, hot, or both?
 
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