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Three questions - no search results

Ahhh, haaaaa. Maybe we can get out money back.

I go with hand snug with a 3/8 ratchet, bet it is about 15 to 20 lbs.

Gesh my (pub. 1990 says the same thing.

Darn we good.
 
That section of Haynes is split between 948, 1098, 1275 and 1500 all on different pages.
I personally verify anything that is in Haynes with other publications, I've been caught out a couple of times when trusting just that one source.
 
Guess I owe Doc a beer, he was right according to the book as well.

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
 
YEAH, Personally that's how I like to do it, use the old elbow-torque feeler! It's been years since I over-did it and busted something (Gaa!! I'm cursed, now you know what I WILL have to do!)Nah! Snug is good. If one checks things over often enough, if it is under-done you'll see it, hear it, or feel it.
 
Mains, rods, heads, and flywheel. Everything else is touchie feeley.
 
Go with the size and application: 20 ft/lb on those little (3/8" NF, IIRC) bolts is more than they should get even in a "hard" surface application. Smooshing a cork gasket between a piece of tin and a cast iron block, they are decidedly overloaded at 20 ft/lb... That *will* distort the pan fer sure.

Again, this is just my 2p bein' tossed out... and Nial: I use a sealant on 'em too. My rebuilds don't leak, either.
 
Doc, they are 1/4-28. A grade 5 fastener would only need 8 ft/lb at most depending on lubrication, etc.
 
I always use sealant. Nuttin' wrong with a little Permatex! I don't like leaks, AND I used to own an Italian car! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazyeyes.gif
 
Yea, I used a bit of form a Gasket as well. Just cause everything is so old and such. No leaks yet, she's got it sucked up.
 
Mehheh... That'n (the Alfa) don't leak either, Mike! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/jester.gif

THX Chris. I wasn't certain of size, wasn't gonna wind one out to check. Thought them smaller, obviously. Still stayin' with my 5~7 ft/lb for the application statement, too! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
 
O/T eye candy:

twincam1.jpg
 
Very pretty too!! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif Anything can be made MADE not to leak given the right attention!!! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thirsty.gif
 
Hi Jman! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif
[ QUOTE ]

1. In the VB catalog it says you need an oil cooler w/ the oil filter conversion kit, are they just trying sell a cooler or is this neccessary?

[/ QUOTE ]

Don't "need" an oil cooler for street motor.
[ QUOTE ]

2. is there a secret to getting the cork oil pan seals to seal or is there a better gasket to use? Mines newly rebuilt and dumping oil.

[/ QUOTE ]

Like others, I would suspect PCV. But to answer the "secret" question /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif: For the cork strips, soak in oil overnite before installing. Do NOT trim.

For the pan. I use a THIN film of black RTV on both side of gaskets. As has been mentioned, pan flange MUST be flat!! Also, you do need the elongated flat washers (see Moss Item #24 on External Engine page. I can get seperately. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif) Ref bolt torque: Factory says SIX foot/pounds!! After all, it IS a 1/4" bolt!! Ditto for timing cover 1/4" bolts with the others 12 lbs/ft.

[ QUOTE ]
[3. Is there an aftermarket fuel pump that I can run? my origional is leaking and makes a lot of noise. I am changing to neg. ground

[/ QUOTE ]

Why not just follow K.I.S.S. Rule and get new Neg. Grd. SU?? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif

Any further questions, please write me direct at ed@justbrits.com !

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
Ed
 
Wow, another tip. Soak the cork in oil overnite.

Good stuff today.
 
You know, I think I'll drop my sump again using that "secret", I got some new gaskets floating around and the car is somewhat stagnant right now.
 
Thanks for the help guys. I will give these ideas a try.

mores questions though. Is there any other parts that can go bad on the PCV besides the rubber bladder. and can I use a little perma seal on the fuel pump gasket? it still works and I don't think I necessarily need a new pump.

Jman
 
If it leaks, why not. If it does not leak, don't.
 
Watch what you use to seal fuel system parts - if fuel dissolves it it will fail and could require a carb cleaning too!
 
I don't pull the torque wrench for anything under 10 foot pounds, normally can cause more trouble than good. On the 1275s I order the more expensive Payen gasket sets which has the rubber pan seals, a much better deal, but almost impossible to find for a 948 or 1098. On the small bore motors (948/1098) when I have to use the cork end gaskets, I first make sure the gasket groove in the pan fit the cork gasket snug, if it is loose, I adjust grooove for the gasket to fit snug, I also use black RTV sparely around the edges. As mentioned above the cork gasket strips often comes to long and you you cut them shorter, make sure they stand just a little proud on the ends when installed, the factory meant for there to be a small bit of compression of the cork. Hope this helps.
 
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