Three questions - no search results

[jlaird]

Ahhh, haaaaa. Maybe we can get out money back.

I go with hand snug with a 3/8 ratchet, bet it is about 15 to 20 lbs.

Gesh my (pub. 1990 says the same thing.

Darn we good.

 

[Baz]

That section of Haynes is split between 948, 1098, 1275 and 1500 all on different pages.
I personally verify anything that is in Haynes with other publications, I've been caught out a couple of times when trusting just that one source.

 

[jlaird]

Guess I owe Doc a beer, he was right according to the book as well.

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif

 

[bugimike]

YEAH, Personally that's how I like to do it, use the old elbow-torque feeler! It's been years since I over-did it and busted something (Gaa!! I'm cursed, now you know what I WILL have to do!)Nah! Snug is good. If one checks things over often enough, if it is under-done you'll see it, hear it, or feel it.

 

[jlaird]

Mains, rods, heads, and flywheel. Everything else is touchie feeley.

 

[DrEntropy]

Go with the size and application: 20 ft/lb on those little (3/8" NF, IIRC) bolts is more than they should get even in a "hard" surface application. Smooshing a cork gasket between a piece of tin and a cast iron block, they are decidedly overloaded at 20 ft/lb... That *will* distort the pan fer sure.

Again, this is just my 2p bein' tossed out... and Nial: I use a sealant on 'em too. My rebuilds don't leak, either.

 

[ChrisS]

Doc, they are 1/4-28. A grade 5 fastener would only need 8 ft/lb at most depending on lubrication, etc.

 

[bugimike]

I always use sealant. Nuttin' wrong with a little Permatex! I don't like leaks, AND I used to own an Italian car! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazyeyes.gif

 

[jlaird]

Yea, I used a bit of form a Gasket as well. Just cause everything is so old and such. No leaks yet, she's got it sucked up.

 

[DrEntropy]

Mehheh... That'n (the Alfa) don't leak either, Mike! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/jester.gif

THX Chris. I wasn't certain of size, wasn't gonna wind one out to check. Thought them smaller, obviously. Still stayin' with my 5~7 ft/lb for the application statement, too! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

 

[DrEntropy]

O/T eye candy:

 

[bugimike]

Very pretty too!! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif Anything can be made MADE not to leak given the right attention!!! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thirsty.gif

 

[Ed Kaler]

Hi Jman! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif
[ QUOTE ]

1. In the VB catalog it says you need an oil cooler w/ the oil filter conversion kit, are they just trying sell a cooler or is this neccessary?

[/ QUOTE ]

Don't "need" an oil cooler for street motor.
[ QUOTE ]

2. is there a secret to getting the cork oil pan seals to seal or is there a better gasket to use? Mines newly rebuilt and dumping oil.

[/ QUOTE ]

Like others, I would suspect PCV. But to answer the "secret" question /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif: For the cork strips, soak in oil overnite before installing. Do NOT trim.

For the pan. I use a THIN film of black RTV on both side of gaskets. As has been mentioned, pan flange MUST be flat!! Also, you do need the elongated flat washers (see Moss Item #24 on External Engine page. I can get seperately. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif) Ref bolt torque: Factory says SIX foot/pounds!! After all, it IS a 1/4" bolt!! Ditto for timing cover 1/4" bolts with the others 12 lbs/ft.

[ QUOTE ]
[3. Is there an aftermarket fuel pump that I can run? my origional is leaking and makes a lot of noise. I am changing to neg. ground

[/ QUOTE ]

Why not just follow K.I.S.S. Rule and get new Neg. Grd. SU?? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif

Any further questions, please write me direct at ed@justbrits.com !

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
Ed

 

[jlaird]

Wow, another tip. Soak the cork in oil overnite.

Good stuff today.

 

[Baz]

You know, I think I'll drop my sump again using that "secret", I got some new gaskets floating around and the car is somewhat stagnant right now.

 

[Jman]

Thanks for the help guys. I will give these ideas a try.

mores questions though. Is there any other parts that can go bad on the PCV besides the rubber bladder. and can I use a little perma seal on the fuel pump gasket? it still works and I don't think I necessarily need a new pump.

Jman

 

[jlaird]

If it leaks, why not. If it does not leak, don't.

 

[bugimike]

Watch what you use to seal fuel system parts - if fuel dissolves it it will fail and could require a carb cleaning too!

 

[Hap Waldrop]

I don't pull the torque wrench for anything under 10 foot pounds, normally can cause more trouble than good. On the 1275s I order the more expensive Payen gasket sets which has the rubber pan seals, a much better deal, but almost impossible to find for a 948 or 1098. On the small bore motors (948/1098) when I have to use the cork end gaskets, I first make sure the gasket groove in the pan fit the cork gasket snug, if it is loose, I adjust grooove for the gasket to fit snug, I also use black RTV sparely around the edges. As mentioned above the cork gasket strips often comes to long and you you cut them shorter, make sure they stand just a little proud on the ends when installed, the factory meant for there to be a small bit of compression of the cork. Hope this helps.