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Jman

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Hey, I'm new here, I have a '66 AH sprite and have some questions that have probably been answered before but I could not seem to find them in exactly the way I need to know.

1. In the VB catalog it says you need an oil cooler w/ the oil filter conversion kit, are they just trying sell a cooler or is this neccessary?

2. is there a secret to getting the cork oil pan seals to seal or is there a better gasket to use? Mines newly rebuilt and dumping oil.

3. Is there an aftermarket fuel pump that I can run? my origional is leaking and makes a lot of noise. I am changing to neg. ground.

Anyways, it seems like this is a really informative website and I'll probably be bugging you alot more untill mines up and running.

Thanks
Jman
 
I can answer the cork pan seal question for you, but not the others, you have to work that puppy in tight. The semicircular seals look bigger than the gap it has to go into and cut off any excess at the ends, maybe about 1/4 of an inch total.
Are VB referring to the spin-on filter conversion?
Welcome to the forum by the way.
Got any pics?
 
Yeah Baz, The spin on type oil filter conversion

Will the cork seals seat in with time or is a leak just a leak?

just got it back from paint, and have been installing parts. I will try to post some pics soon.

Thanks for the reply by the way.
 
I have no leaks, yet.
 
Shouldn't leak at all.
It may have become twisted as the pan was bolted back on.
Is it the front or rear seal?
 
O'Riley autoparts sells a 3.5 lb fuel pump. About 40 bucks.

Someone else here had a link to Pep Boys who has the same pump as in the Moss cat Page 24, again for about 40 bucks.

Make sure it is only about 3.5 pounds pressure.
 
I bought a low-pressure pump from Napa just a couple of days ago, p/n 610-1051. I have installed it in place of a moribund SU AUF305 but have not powered it up yet, still trying to iron out some other issues.

It was $43 or a bit more I forget exactly how much.
 
An oil cooler is an option. You don't need it but it doesn't hurt.

Does you car have a PCV system? It may be building pressure and blowing oil out of the rear. That little flat top gizmo on the intake piped to the timing cover or lifter cover draws out excess crankcase pressure and you NEED it.

There are a few generic fuel pumps out there. Those little square jobs are noisey and never shut up. Look for the transistorized round one, low pressure, 3-5 MAX, it around $50 at NAPA or CarQuest.
 
Thanks for the info guys, I really appreciate it.

Spritenut: I do have the PCV gizmo but I don't know for sure if its working. I just installed the little rubber piece in it the other day. Yesterday was the first time in a couple of months that I had fired it up and it seemed like the oil leak was alot worse than it was before. not sure though. How do I know if the PCV is working properly?

Baz: it's the rear seal. could it be possible that I just need to tighten the oil pan bolts?

Jman
 
Think the good book says 20 lbs on the pan bolts Jman.
 
For PAN BOLTS?!?! YIKES! Check the book again, Jack. INCH pounds mebbe... If the gasket has been squeezed too much it can 'squirm' around and cause a leak. 5~7 ft/lb would be more like a proper torque on those.

May not be the pan leaking. Isn't the rear seal one of the 'scroll' variety on this engine? I think I'd be looking there, instead.

Just my 2p worth.
 
It is a scroll, no seal on the rear.

Oil sump to block 20 lbs. I remembered correctly. Wheeee, I win.
 
FT/LB's? WOW. Hat's off to ya.
 
Per my Haynes manual it is 20 lbs. Page 31, Oil sump to block 20 lbf ft. 22ed line down under Torque wrench settings.

In fact I see nothing at 6 lbs.

Rocker ped to cyl head is 2
Fan is 9
Everything else is up from there.
 
I see 6lbs, under 'sump retaining bolts'. page 31 of Haynes is for 1500 motor.
Nevertheless, Jman has a leak, what else is back there that's fragile? Thrust washer, bearings etc, could it be any of them....
 
Noop, gota be the pan. Or the rear, nothing else there, but misc connections and timeing chain cover.

Wow, our books are different, no fooling.
 
The oil pans can get a "drapery effect" after numerous refittings. Be sure it's truly flat along the gasket area. You can flatten it against a hard, flat surface using a 1" wooden dowel and a hammer. I also use a bit of gasket sealer, but others may disagree with this.

As Frank says, the breather is important. My 1500 race car leaked like crazy until I go that squared away. Now it doesn't ooze a drop, even in a 4-Hour race.

Most of the little square-body fuel pumps mentioned above are made by "Facet". Cheap and very reliable but, as mentioned, very noisy (not a bother to me, with a helmet on).
But even the low-pressure unit may be overkill for our cars and may cause minor flooding or rich conditions. Mine (rated at 3.5 lbs) was a bit too much, so I added a fuel pressure regulator. I race at 2.5 lbs, which is plenty.

An oil cooler may be useful for some racing, but I do not see it as really needed for most street cars.
I do not use one on my race car: less weight and one less thing to break or leak.
Also, they're almost impossible to clean out if crud gets in them. A friend of mine rebuilds his race 1275 every two years and he throws away the oil cooler and buys a new one.
 
My elec pump is also rated at 3.5. Maybe that's partialy why I had a few leak problems. All good now though.
 
Jack, I have a Haynes (publ.1982) which does list sump retaining bolts at 6ft/lb under the heading "Torque wrench settings" on page 28 in the begining of the "Engine" chapter & then on page 31 there is another listing for torque wrench settings, and THERE it says... are you ready?... 20ft/lb.

Which is right?

My old Chilton's (1970) says 6ft/lbs! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazyeyes.gif
 
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