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TR4/4A Three Questions: Distributors, Idling, Turn Signal Flasher

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Hmm, come to think of it, many years ago the family wagon didn't want to idle even though it ran OK at higher rpm. In that case, the problem did turn out to be points adjustment. Apparently I had wiped off the point cam with solvent during a tune-up, then forgotten to relube it. The dry cam had worn the rubbing block until the points almost didn't open at all.

Also, when I was having trouble with valve recession on the 3A, that was the symptom that said it was time to run the valves again. The engine would first idle rough and then just refuse to idle even though it ran well enough at higher rpm.

Neither of those seem particularly likely here, just thought I'd mention them as possibilities. Easy enough to check.
 
No one is getting excited about the empty fuel filter. OK, I won't get too worried either, but should I try putting my spare fuel pump on just to check? I'll look at the points first. Is there an easy way to rule out the coil? What about the condenser? That little thing always puzzles me--because I have no idea what it does.
 
Only sure way to rule out the coil & condenser is to swap in ones that you know are good.
 
I was going to suggest a spare fuel pump, but didn't know if you had one, yes, if I had a spare I would definitely swap it out, same with coil and condenser as well to test them.
 
In case I haven't mentioned this recently, one of the little Facet electric pumps makes a good spare to have around. It can be pressed into service even on the side of the road (if you carry some hose, clamps and clip leads with it), and occasionally comes in handy for transferring fuel between cars or emptying the tank so you can work on it. I even used mine when changing the fuel pump on the Buick (which involves removing the fuel tank).

Used ones show up on flea-bay from time to time, but be sure to get the right pressure. Most American carbs take 7 psi, which will overpower the float valve in a Weber, SU or ZS carb.
 
err ... didn't we suggest swapping out the coil already?

I thought sure you had replaced the points and condenser already too. Is that when the problem started?

Seems if the carb bowls still have fuel when the engine dies, then the fuel pump can be ruled out.
 
NutmegCT said:
err ... didn't we suggest swapping out the coil already?

I thought sure you had replaced the points and condenser already too. Is that when the problem started?

Seems if the carb bowls still have fuel when the engine dies, then the fuel pump can be ruled out.
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I'm heading to the man cave soon. I don't have a spare coil, but I'll see what I can check out there. Yes, I have new points and condenser but I've heard things around here about defective ones. To me, the pump seems weak but probably OK; my issue was seeing the filter so empty. I'll check it all out and be back here again soon.
 
KVH said:
Here's the situation: Both fuel bowls at the HS6 carbs are just a little more than one-third full. In other words, when I remove the float and lid, there's about one inch of fuel inside each bowl, maybe a little more. The front bowl is actually a bit lower than the rear. My fuel filter is empty which seems odd since in my other TR4A it's about half full. Does any of that indicate a pump problem? The symptom I'm having is that my idle will never stay steady, and almost always declines over a few minutes, often to a stall. Thanks for the help.
Click to expand...

Ahh, but it appears to me that if the float bowls are ONLY one third full, they may be low enough to render them the same as empty. Even though the fuel does go out the bottom of the bowl to the jet, the fuel level needs to be to the same level as very near the top of the jet. And one third of the bowl even with the float in there does not sound like it is going to reach the appropriate height. How about dropping a float in the float bowl and see how high the fuel comes up.
Charley
 
An easier way to test it, if you have a hand primer on the pump you should be able to tell when the bowls fill up and the needle valves close. If you do it right after the car is stalling out if one or two pumps and the noise/resistance changes, that is probably OK, if more than that your bowls are most certainly low and you aren't getting enough gas, easy enough to try.
 
KVH said:
I'm heading to the man cave soon. I don't have a spare coil, but I'll see what I can check out there. Yes, I have new points and condenser but I've heard things around here about defective ones. To me, the pump seems weak but probably OK; my issue was seeing the filter so empty. I'll check it all out and be back here again soon.
Click to expand...

So - what's the status?

Any improvement when you swapped out the coil and condenser?

Tom
 
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