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Those who switched back to points from petronixx..

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The electronics that feed the coil on the 123 sound alot like what the XR-3000 does. Gotta love those curving options, too.
 
I never had problems with the points except they wear out. I think they are good for 10K miles? I changed to petronix because I wanted 40k+ volts gaping the spark plugs and creating more energy with a cleaner burn. Also, there was a little wobble in the dizzy shaft and I thought that may make the dwell less erratic. Now my engine performs: 85 hp at full throttle Ha! But it does start with reliability and I feel sure the plugs get a little more spark. Ill keep the electronic ignition until it fails and then maybe a little more expensive device. I bought my Petronix the same weekend I met Doc in Louisiana and paid just under $100 (no Doc was not selling them). Now all I have to do is put a drop of oil on the screw that holds the dizzy shaft together when ever I change the oil; I guess I don't have dwell problems (or checks any more) and I don't worry about dizzy wobble and I don't have to gap the points or file the tit off (never like that idea any way). I hope my current erratic motor problems is the by pass valve on one or both the carburetors and the bumping banging I hear when going over even slight bumps is a misaligned exhaust/muffler. I did covert to tube shocks too.
 
My understanding is you don't get any higher voltage advantage unless the spark plug gaps are opened up AND the ignition system is such that a high spark is possible.
 
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]and I don't have to gap the points or file the tit off (never like that idea any way)[/QUOTE]

So that's what that's called. I can remember the day I discarded that little file I carried (and used, regularly) for years.
 
More spark is one of the advantages over points as the electronic switching can handle a coil that draws more current and produces more voltage than points. I guess you could use a coil that draws more current (and have a greater out put) with the points but even if you could find a matching capacitor the points life would be reduced and the never ending adjustment for dwell and gap adjustment would prevail. I suppose the standard plug gap was a function of the comparatively lower secondary voltage of the standard ignition. The higher voltage does allow for the plugs to be adjusted to as much as 40% increase in gap. Ignition timing has to be adjusted to take advantage of the hotter spark too.
 
Pertronix has taken quite a beating, hasn't it.

I can only say I've had one in my TR3 for about 10 years now, no problem. Before that I had one in my 1275 Midget and I've also got one in the 1500 Midget.

By a happy coincidence, the one from the defunct, sob, 1275 is the same as in the Triumph, so I have a spare. The one in the 1500 is a different number. Anyone know why?

Cheers!
 
Just tried to fire my newly built engine tonight and theres no spark to the plugs>?< Car ran fine at the shop. Maybe have the ignition wire hooked to the wrong post on the coil, but not sure...it doesnt work no matter which post its hooked to. Supposedly, these distributors have a polarity fail safe that shuts it down so it wont burn up. I need a wiring diagram from petronix so I can figure out why I have 2 posts to hook my igniton wire to...never seen anything like that on a coil before...any help would be great!
Thanks!
 
should be black to neg and red to positive, and the white wire from Ingnition to positive, just hooked mine back up and it fired right up, you might replace your cap and rotor, I had a problem with those in the past

Hondo
 
Positive ground or negative ? Instructions are available at https://www.pertronix.com/support/manuals/default.aspx

Assuming you have a stock distributor with an Ignitor module installed, there is no protection against reverse polarity or even leaving the key on too long. Only the Ignitor II & III have protection, and they're not available for the original TR3 dizzy.
 

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Thanks guys! I think we hooked it up backwards, and the voltage we are getting from the battery to the coil drops to 10.5 when starting the car. So, we are gonna try a better battery first...then go from there.
 
Hi,

I installed the Pertronix about 5,000 miles ago. I have an original dizzy with a worn shaft and a very little play. The Pertronix really improved throttle response. So far, I really like it. Although, would like it if they produced an Ignitor II or Ignitor III for our cars.

If mine does eventually fail, it will probably be b/c for the first 3,000 miles I had the low ohm coil (1.5 ohm PN 40011) installed rather than the correct one (3.0 ohm coil PN 40511). My understanding is that the low ohm coil sends more (too much) juice to the ignition (I may be wrong about that).

Bill, regarding your voltage drop, I had a similar issue. First check voltage across the battery terminals. Then check it at the coil. You should see no more than a 0.5 volt drop. Originally I had 12.45v across the battery and 7.10v at the coil. Traced it back to horribly corroded connectors on my ammeter. Replaced those, applied dielectric grease. Result, 12.55v at battery and 12.45v at coil. Now she fires up instantly upon turning the ignition key.

Bob
 
Randall,

Good point. My numbers above were with the ignition on but, not while cranking the motor over.

Bob
 
Stick with the original points. I put an original distributer from McLean's Brit Bits back in my TR3A when I had the engine rebuilt. They're simpler almost foolproof and as has been mentioned, if you do have a problem you can replace them on the side of the road at night with a flashlight and get the car running again. I've done it(not with my current car but with the GT6 I owned). I haven't had a problem with them since I had my engine rebuilt 3 years ago, car starts right up and runs great.
 
No reason to use Pertronix.

Talk to Jeff Schlemmer and get some premium tungsten points and a nice red rotor and you're good.
 
I'll add my two cents about the petronics. Sitting on the side of the road.. on a sunday with everything closed... at the ATDI Cle @ Elum Wash in my 1962 TR3B... with no spark and a brand new petronics and flame thrower coil installed two months before. No points condenser or replacment coil onboard...I was a little preturbed. Thank goodness for the other TR members that carry such items or it could have been very costly indeed. I have gone back to points and condenser and thats the way I'm going to stay...
 
I have never had a problem with mine and I hope that I never do, but I do carry a breaker plate with points (preset in the distributor and removed as a unit) and condenser mounted to it, ready to drop in at a moments notice, should the Pertronix fail. I also have the new lead to go to the coil.
 
We were sold on the Petronix idea by the builder of our engine...not sure why he wanted to go that route. Based on what I have heard, they are prone to failure without notice.... So we may get another dizzy rebuilt with points and condenser just in case. Thnks for the info Gents..I'll let ya know if the new module does the trick.
 
BillJoBob said:
We were sold on the Petronix idea by the builder of our engine...not sure why he wanted to go that route. Based on what I have heard, they are prone to failure without notice.... So we may get another dizzy rebuilt with points and condenser just in case. Thnks for the info Gents..I'll let ya know if the new module does the trick.
Click to expand...

I agree with you BillJoBob, but isn't <span style="font-style: italic">EVERYTHING</span> on an LBC prone to failure without notice??? :lol:
 
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]but isn't EVERYTHING on an LBC prone to failure without notice???[/QUOTE]

Only if you leave them alone in the garage for too long...they get lonesome and throw hissy fits.....
 
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