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Those who switched back to points from petronixx..

karls59tr

Obi Wan
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My Tr3 is running a little rough and I've checked the usual fuel and ignition issues. Was wondering what the symptoms were to cause people to go back to points?
 
In the interest of Full Disclosure, I'm still running points on my TR6.

I think people convert to Pertronix because,
1) More consistent/powerful spark
2) Worn out distributors are more tolerant of electronic ignition than points

I think some switch back because,
1) They left the ignition on while the engine wasn't running and fried the petronix.
2) Points are generally quite reliable and can be fixed on the side of the road
3) Purists wanting to keep the car original
 
In my case, the main thing that prompted me to switch back was that the engine frequently would simply not start while cranking from cold. After running the battery down several times, I finally noticed that it would only fire just AFTER releasing the start button. After I got tired of having to let go the button and hope it caught this time, I swapped the points back in.

With the new points, it would fire almost instantly, every time. I've still got a float bowl gasket that drips a bit, so it won't always stay running after it fires, but it generally starts and stays running on the second try, which is still far quicker than it would ever start with the Pertronix.

It also seems to run better with points. Don't need the choke as long after starting; throttle response seems crisper, etc.

Now that I've got several thousand miles on them, I can tell that the points are getting 'tired' and should be changed soon. But it's still nowhere near as bad as it was with the Pertronix.

PS, I switched to the Pertronix in the first place mostly out of curiosity. I was running a Crane XR3000 on the TR3A before, and while it would match 'new' points, I never felt it offered any improvement over them except for being consistent. Once I got it set up right, I drove nearly 50,000 miles without having to touch it again. But lots of folks seem to prefer the Pertronix, so I thought I'd try it myself.

If I run out of better things to do, I might also try using the Pertronix module to trigger a MSD 6 module. I ran a MSD 6 for many years, and it did give significantly better performance than points, IMO.
 
I've got several distributors, with slightly different curves. Two have points and one is Pertronix. I have the Pertronix in the car with the new engine, because it was the latest and was curved for the new engine. After 2,000 miles, I can say that is no better or worse than the points. But all of mine are rebuilt, so I have an advantage of working with all new parts.

I do keep a complete plate, with re-gapped points and condenser mounted to it, ready to be replaced by removing the two screws and dropping it into place, should the Pertronix ever fail. Jeff made that up for me when he converted the last distributor over to Pertronix, just in case.
 

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Brosky said:
I've got several distributors, with slightly different curves. Two have points and one is Pertronix. I have the Pertronix in the car with the new engine, because it was the latest and was curved for the new engine. After 2,000 miles, I can say that is no better or worse than the points. But all of mine are rebuilt, so I have an advantage of working with all new parts.

I do keep a complete plate, with re-gapped points and condenser mounted to it, ready to be replaced by removing the two screws and dropping it into place, should the Pertronix ever fail. Jeff made that up for me when he converted the last distributor over to Pertronix, just in case.

Ditto, exactly (exceept I only have one dizzy)!

I actually prefer points. The only reason I have been running the last 20,000 miles with a Pertronix is that the components for the point system were such poor quality. Had one new condenser only last 20 miles. And had other similar problems. From the lack of complaints in the forums over the last year or two the quality of parts must be improved.
 
When the wave of goofy iggy parts hit the shore and was identified, I started getting points and condensors from NAPA for the shop. "Standard" ignition parts. LU-"XXX" part numbers, different from dizzy to dizzy applications.

All of the personal LBC's were 25D units so, no problems with availability.
 
previous owner of my TR6 put in a crane cams electronic ignition close to 15 years ago, and it's been running on it ever since without any tuning / adjustments, and it runs great. I've had nothing but good things with it thus far
 
Doc,

Standard Ignition parts and Blue Streak, have always been quality manufacturers and I would use their points and condensers in a heartbeat.
 
I'm a glutton for punishment, I've got a dual point Mallory in the TR3. Twice as many headaches... Hey, it was brand new at a killer price off ebay! It even has a vacuum advance on it. :laugh:
 
Brosky said:
Doc,

Standard Ignition parts and Blue Streak, have always been quality manufacturers and I would use their points and condensers in a heartbeat.

Yup. Still do, Paul.

When the second or third car came back on a hook shortly after we'd done a points/plugs/condensor R&R and found the condensor had gone, we tossed out the half dozen or so left from an order from whichever of the "specialty" suppliers (can't recall, mebbe Moss, mebbe Special Interest) it was, and went to NAPA from then on.
 
Aloha Karl,

I went back to points after my Pertronix fail a few weeks ago. Initial symptoms where occasional misfiring and hesitation, of short duration. A week or so later the car just died and initial trouble shooting reveled no spark at the plugs. After a few minutes I was able to restart the engine and made it home. I attributed this "failure to proceed" to a suspect wiring connection in the ignition circuit, but that may not have been the problem. About a week later, the car died again (in almost the same spot) on my trip home. Although I had a spare coil and a contact breaker plate with preset points I didn't have my tool bag in the car. After a tow home, the coil tested good, points installed and the car fired right up. So in my case the symptoms were an occasional miss, followed by intermittent failure and then complete failure all over about a 3-4 week period. I drive the car at least five days a week going to work.

My two sources for ignition parts are Advanced Distributors and NAPA.
 
Hi Dave. When your at Napa for your ignition parts what do they have them listed under? Do they actually have them listed under Triumph or is there a generic set of points and condenser made? Happen to know the code or stock number that Napa lists them under? thx Karl
 
I have had two Petronix fail both times had some missing under loads. Then engine quit and would only run on two cylinders. The last time I change back to points this has be over 2 years ago and have no problems since.
 
I have a pertronix for my TR250, I don't know if I am going to install it or not, I probably will, but I have points in now and works fine, they really are fairly trouble free and as mentioned easier to futz with to get home if you have a problem. That being said I have run Pertronix on a couple of cars for many years with absolutely no problems.

I think a recall somebody telling me that Grassroots Motorsports tested them and they were good for 2-3 HP. But I don't think I ever actually saw the article.

How is that for a rambling, conflicted post?
 
It does seem like there are more problems with the Pertronix than Crane ignitions. Any venture as to why (besides more people went to Pertronix)?
 
Probably because more people use the Pertronix and talk about them than Crane owners?
 
Aloha Karl,

I had a working relationship with the counter man at my local NAPA store and he wasn't afraid to look through his catalogs for parts to fit my older cars. Many can be found by searching their on line catalog for Triumph TR3A. Since I use my car as a daily driver, I can't always wait for parts to be flown in from the big three parts houses.

Here is a list of some of them by NAPA part number:
ECH EP41 Rotor
ECH EP29 Condensor
ECH CS207A TR3A Points (CS207SB alternate)
ECH EP39 TR3A Distr Cap
NBH 2524379 TR3 Fan Belt 19mm x 980mm (.75 X 38.62)
NBH 2528386 TR3 ALT Fan Belt 22mm x 995mm (.866 X 39.173)
NBK 703-1411 Radiator Cap, 7 PSI

Both fan belts will work as replacements for the standard wide belt, my alternate listing is if the first size isn't available.
 
SkinnedKnuckles said:
It does seem like there are more problems with the Pertronix than Crane ignitions. Any venture as to why (besides more people went to Pertronix)?
IMO, inside the distributor is a horrible place to put a relatively high power transistor (switching several amps at several hundred volts). Heat is the enemy of all solid-state electronics (even those rated for operation at high temperatures). The Crane puts it in a big box with fins, mounted away from the engine.

I believe the newer Crane modules are also considerably more sophisticated.
 
My friends and I have all gone back to points.My last petronics lasted about 45mins and I tired of walking home. I can always get it running with points. Nice way to meet new people though when they offer you a ride.Many roadside rescuers actually try to blame Mr. Lucas, but I correct them and assign the proper credit to the pertronics company when due.I wonder if some of the people at Petronics could be long lost relatives of Mr.Lucas???? Things that make go Hmmmmmmm.
 
SkinnedKnuckles said:
It does seem like there are more problems with the Pertronix than Crane ignitions. Any venture as to why (besides more people went to Pertronix)?

There was a Crane ignition in my car when I purchased it. The car had some problems and while sorting it out I noticed the Crane parts did not fit under the dizzy cap and rubbed causing the cap to move around. No idea why and I just removed it.
 
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