twas_brillig
Jedi Knight

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but does anyone have any idea as to how many foot pounds would be appropriate (assuming I'm successful with the adaptor, the torque wrench would be right on the centreline of the wheel)? Thanks, Doug
I use a orange dead blow hammer/mallet from HF. Works great.
I use a orange dead blow hammer/mallet from HF. Works great.
Watch out using a plastic/dead-blow hammer in cooler temps too! Last one I had__a Proto__blew itself apart in mid-50* temps in southern Louisiana.Watch out for the shot canister edge cutting through the face - that will nick your knockoff. I went through 2 of the HF black dead-blow hammers that way.
Just before starting to reinstall a wheel and attach the knockoff I carefully anneal the brass end of my original Thor 04-310BHP hammer so that when measured with a Shore durometer (using the ASTM D2240 type D scale) I get a reading of 60, thus establishing a pre-tightening baseline.
I then have at the knockoff with the Thor, carefully measuring the hardness of the brass face with the aforementioned instrument. When the durometer reading increases to 74-76 measured at the center of the brass face I stop whacking.
It is important that the initial measurement be performed within 15 minutes of the annealing so that thermal expansion/contraction of the brass does not give a false reading, and naturally this procedure must be repeated for each wheel. I have been using this method for almost 20 years and I have yet to be passed by one of my own wheels while driving. This works on both the near and off side knockons.
BTW I imagine that ambient temperature may have some affect upon the readings I get and the relative force being applied but I have not yet factored it into my calculations.
I use an all-lead hammer from American Hammers (also sold by Moss) - available in various weights. No distortion.
How do you expect to hold the wheel from turning when using a tool? I always thought you
were supposed to tighten the knockoff with the tire off the ground. Thus the hammers.
Just before starting to reinstall a wheel and attach the knockoff I carefully anneal the brass end of my original Thor 04-310BHP hammer so that when measured with a Shore durometer (using the ASTM D2240 type D scale) I get a reading of 60, thus establishing a pre-tightening baseline.
I then have at the knockoff with the Thor, carefully measuring the hardness of the brass face with the aforementioned instrument. When the durometer reading increases to 74-76 measured at the center of the brass face I stop whacking.
It is important that the initial measurement be performed within 15 minutes of the annealing so that thermal expansion/contraction of the brass does not give a false reading, and naturally this procedure must be repeated for each wheel. I have been using this method for almost 20 years and I have yet to be passed by one of my own wheels while driving. This works on both the near and off side knockons.
BTW I imagine that ambient temperature may have some affect upon the readings I get and the relative force being applied but I have not yet factored it into my calculations.