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6969ronin6969
Senior Member
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any more pics of your dash? that is beautuful!
great job on the whole project.
Eric
great job on the whole project.
Eric
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The start of something big. Frame off restoration
- Thread starter justin_mercier
- Start date
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OP
justin_mercier
Jedi Warrior
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I'm just waiting on some new rubber mounts to arrive in the mail (should be here thursday or friday) and then I'll have the engine on the frame !
Many thanks to Al for the delivery of the engine and other goodies. Some of those goodies were his old rear axles and differential, the axles were rebuilt much more recently than my originals (aka my never rebuilt ones) so after getting some new rubber boots on them, I installed them on the rear. I've got to clean the differential still, and then I am going to drill and tap it for a magnetic drain plug and fill it with new gear oil.
The engine looks awesome. It was very clean to begin with, but since I had some time, I went and cleaned the heck out of it anyways.
I also picked up locally a pair of doors, since the ones that I have have quite a few rust problems, and more than a little bondo. These ones had already been stripped, cleaned, prepped, and primed. All they need is to be blocked down and final painted.
Finally, I decided on red for my brake drums and calipers. Still waiting for the calipers in the mail, but the drums baked tonight and are installed back on the car, and look sharp through the KN Minator wheels =)
Many thanks to Al for the delivery of the engine and other goodies. Some of those goodies were his old rear axles and differential, the axles were rebuilt much more recently than my originals (aka my never rebuilt ones) so after getting some new rubber boots on them, I installed them on the rear. I've got to clean the differential still, and then I am going to drill and tap it for a magnetic drain plug and fill it with new gear oil.
The engine looks awesome. It was very clean to begin with, but since I had some time, I went and cleaned the heck out of it anyways.
I also picked up locally a pair of doors, since the ones that I have have quite a few rust problems, and more than a little bondo. These ones had already been stripped, cleaned, prepped, and primed. All they need is to be blocked down and final painted.
Finally, I decided on red for my brake drums and calipers. Still waiting for the calipers in the mail, but the drums baked tonight and are installed back on the car, and look sharp through the KN Minator wheels =)
hondo402000
Darth Vader
Offline
did you reinforce the front lower a arm attachment points? I couldnt tell and while you are doing the keencerts you should go ahead and get Goodparts CV half shafts, much easier to install while the frame is off. and you wont have the TR twitch anymore. and mights as well send the engine off and have it bored out to 2.7 L , forged pistions, 0- decked, 9.5 to 1 compression, head port and polished, new valves, guided and seals, roller rockers, head CC'ed crank shaft lightened and nitried, main caps align honed, carillo rods, all balanced, block bored for cam bearing, front metal sealing plate, new performance cam, aluminum rear plate, Fedanza flywheel. new clutch and pressure plate,
new wiring harness
transmission uprated and add an OD
whew, did I leave anything out
Hondo
new wiring harness
transmission uprated and add an OD
whew, did I leave anything out
Hondo
OP
justin_mercier
Jedi Warrior
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Sounds like time for some of the stats on the engine =)
1: Block modifications
a. Late block, decked plus .030, motor numbers are milled away
b. Align bored
c. Cylinders bored .030 over
2: Crank shaft balanced, with polished treated oil passages
3: Stock flywheel, lightened and balanced
4: Early high compression head
a. Milled head to 44 cc's per chamber for 9.98:1 compression ratio
b. gasket matched and polished ports
5: Late stock rods, balanced, ARP rod bolts
6: standard Vandervell main and rod bearings
7: Hepolite pistons .030 milled off the top for zero deck height and balanced (see 1.a above)
8: Deves rings
9: Good Parts GP2 cam and dual springs
10: 1.55:1 roller rockers
11: Tubular chrome moly push rods
12: Bronze valve guides with seals
13: Good parts triple Zenith Stromberg 175 intake
14: Fuel regulator for use with electric pump
15: Spin off oil filter conversion with 13 row oil cooler with in-line thermostat
16: Stock oil pan with custom windage tray
17: HD Cam chain/sprocket set
18: Toyota 5 Speed HVDA conversion with hydraulic throw out bearing
1: Block modifications
a. Late block, decked plus .030, motor numbers are milled away
b. Align bored
c. Cylinders bored .030 over
2: Crank shaft balanced, with polished treated oil passages
3: Stock flywheel, lightened and balanced
4: Early high compression head
a. Milled head to 44 cc's per chamber for 9.98:1 compression ratio
b. gasket matched and polished ports
5: Late stock rods, balanced, ARP rod bolts
6: standard Vandervell main and rod bearings
7: Hepolite pistons .030 milled off the top for zero deck height and balanced (see 1.a above)
8: Deves rings
9: Good Parts GP2 cam and dual springs
10: 1.55:1 roller rockers
11: Tubular chrome moly push rods
12: Bronze valve guides with seals
13: Good parts triple Zenith Stromberg 175 intake
14: Fuel regulator for use with electric pump
15: Spin off oil filter conversion with 13 row oil cooler with in-line thermostat
16: Stock oil pan with custom windage tray
17: HD Cam chain/sprocket set
18: Toyota 5 Speed HVDA conversion with hydraulic throw out bearing
rlwhitetr3b
Jedi Knight
Offline
I think I have read that after an oven is used for powder coating, it should not be used for food. That looks like it is your kitchen, please do be careful.
OP
justin_mercier
Jedi Warrior
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None of that is powder-coating, that's just paint that needs to bake at temp to cure.
I hit a road bump today =D
I got my new engine mounting brackets in the mail, and spent the afternoon in the garage mounting up the engine and transmission on the frame... or so I meant to... Through a bit of oversight by myself, I didn't remember that there was actual frame difference for the transmission mount from earlier TR6s to later TR6s. The result is, the HVDA mounting bracket that I have works with earlier frames, but not with the later frame that my replacement frame is.
I gave Herman van den Aker a call and he's going to email me with a price to buy just the rear transmission mounting bracket, so that I can get back on the way with my project =)
In the mean time.. I'm so close ! I cant wait now to have the engine on the frame without my hoist above it
I hit a road bump today =D
I got my new engine mounting brackets in the mail, and spent the afternoon in the garage mounting up the engine and transmission on the frame... or so I meant to... Through a bit of oversight by myself, I didn't remember that there was actual frame difference for the transmission mount from earlier TR6s to later TR6s. The result is, the HVDA mounting bracket that I have works with earlier frames, but not with the later frame that my replacement frame is.
I gave Herman van den Aker a call and he's going to email me with a price to buy just the rear transmission mounting bracket, so that I can get back on the way with my project =)
In the mean time.. I'm so close ! I cant wait now to have the engine on the frame without my hoist above it
OP
justin_mercier
Jedi Warrior
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Darrell_Walker
Jedi Knight
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Looking good!
OP
justin_mercier
Jedi Warrior
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Yay, more parts arrived today. I now have the transmission mounted properly with the right mount, and I replaced the water pipe with a stainless steel one. In addition I got the high torque starter installed and a bunch of the hardware on the engine changed to stainless.
OP
justin_mercier
Jedi Warrior
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Yes, it's been almost 2 months, they haven't been wasted, but they haven't been all that productive either. I've been wicked busy at work, and then the weather's been too hot for a lot of car work... and then most weekends I've been either on vacation, or cruising around in the TR7 instead of working on the TR6. I've made progress though!
I just got mounted the oil cooler with in-line thermostat, the chassis cross member, replaced all the hardware on the engine with new nuts and bolts, and refurbised the rear differential. Tomorrow I should be mounting the differential, and then measuring for a new drive-shaft. I'm not sure if I should have the oil cooler lines run above or below the crossmember. Right now I've got them below, but it looks like the lines and the steering rack boot will rub.
Now, I'll have to take back off the intake manifold to get the body back on, but I wanted to get everything in place so that I can get all the hoses measured and cut to size for coolant, exhaust, fuel, etc. It sure looks pretty there !
The rear differential has been freshly painted, and is just waiting for paint to dry before mounting with new bushings. I forgot to take any photos of it when I had it apart.
I just got mounted the oil cooler with in-line thermostat, the chassis cross member, replaced all the hardware on the engine with new nuts and bolts, and refurbised the rear differential. Tomorrow I should be mounting the differential, and then measuring for a new drive-shaft. I'm not sure if I should have the oil cooler lines run above or below the crossmember. Right now I've got them below, but it looks like the lines and the steering rack boot will rub.
Now, I'll have to take back off the intake manifold to get the body back on, but I wanted to get everything in place so that I can get all the hoses measured and cut to size for coolant, exhaust, fuel, etc. It sure looks pretty there !
The rear differential has been freshly painted, and is just waiting for paint to dry before mounting with new bushings. I forgot to take any photos of it when I had it apart.
OP
justin_mercier
Jedi Warrior
Offline
It's been a long time without a huge amount of work, as I've been wicked busy with other things. Here's some updates though. Differential, driveshaft, radiator, exhaust, etc all mounted on the frame. I still have not mounted the brakelines to the frame because I need to order some more clips to afix them there. With the exception of the brake lines however... I think i'm done everything that I can really do without getting to the body / tub. Time to get grinding / sanding /blasting / stripping on that and taking care of rust. Ugh! =D
OP
justin_mercier
Jedi Warrior
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It doesn't feel On time / on schedule to me. But I'm still hopeful to be ready for / in paint for spring
OP
justin_mercier
Jedi Warrior
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My dashboard isn't completely finished, but I thought that I would show the slight layout changes that I've made. I still need to do some more layers of varnish, and to cover the back of the glove box door still.
I removed the indicator lights, and the rheostat, the trip meter reset will be where the hazard switch used to be, and although it's not in this photo, the ignition switch will actually be in the dash where the windshield washer switch used to be underneath the light switch. I need to drill that hole out still. (The holes were filled in from behind with pegs that were glued in, and then re-drilled out to smaller size) Originally I was going to put the ignition in the center console area like the 1969 TR6s but I decided to move the hazard switch and windshield washer switches to the center instead.
There's one flaw in the veneer that I unfortunately didn't get out properly, I thought that it would be drilled out with the hole where the hazard switch is, but it's actually slightly to the side, so I may turn on my lathe a custom nut to hold in place the trip reset knob that's a little larger than the stock one to cover it over.
I removed the indicator lights, and the rheostat, the trip meter reset will be where the hazard switch used to be, and although it's not in this photo, the ignition switch will actually be in the dash where the windshield washer switch used to be underneath the light switch. I need to drill that hole out still. (The holes were filled in from behind with pegs that were glued in, and then re-drilled out to smaller size) Originally I was going to put the ignition in the center console area like the 1969 TR6s but I decided to move the hazard switch and windshield washer switches to the center instead.
There's one flaw in the veneer that I unfortunately didn't get out properly, I thought that it would be drilled out with the hole where the hazard switch is, but it's actually slightly to the side, so I may turn on my lathe a custom nut to hold in place the trip reset knob that's a little larger than the stock one to cover it over.
OP
justin_mercier
Jedi Warrior
Offline
My brake lines are run and clipped to the frame... but they're only hand tight right now, How tight should they be to make sure i have a good seal? I dont want to over tighten them and damage anything. Also, the stainless braided flexlines that I got from TSI came with some copper washers, which my original brakelines dont have, they dont seem like they would help with any of the seals, does anyone know for sure where they should be used? =)