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The Painting begins

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That used to happen when lacquer thinner attacked and enamel paint under it. With today's compounds, I'm not sure of the cause, but it's not right, so you have to stop now.
 
Hondo,
I had the same problem with my inner fenders but I used Rustoleum primer underneath. Had to sand back to the metal, lost an entire cup of paint.
I used Duplicolor metal etching primer on all of my exterior panels with no issues.
I am not sure where you are buying your primer but be aware that Autozone has switched from Duplicolor to Rustoleum branded products and they are crap!
I have to drive to Advanced Auto find Duplicolor products.
Tom C
 
Well the good news, Dupli color metal etching primer is the problem. I sprayed the pannel I prepared with the dupli color and then sprayed the base coat and within about 15 sec the base coat started cracking,. it was fine with the SEM primer. So now I have to figure out where I primed the spots with duplicolor its very apparent where the areas are when the BC is applied but the whats still not painted is the issue. I am guessing I will basically just have to sand back down and start again

Hondo
 
You may find that your top coat system has a compatible primer/sealer that you can spray over the panels you have already prepped. Of course this will mean a bit more block sanding but it may prevent you from having to go back and find all the Duplicolor and sand it off.
 
Hi Doug
well I actually sealed the pannels before I sprayed them and it didnt help. however the sealer directions are, spray one medium coat let flash for 15-20 min and then apply top coat, and if you let the sealer cure overnight you have to lightly scuff sand and then apply top coat, now would letting the sealer cure overnight help??? dont know that could be something to investigate. I will consult with the paint guy tomorrow, but I thought I could buy the cheapest color Base coat, spray each pannel and use that like a guide coat as a way to find the trouble spots, fix, prime and paint. I really dont wont to have to take it to bare metal again

Hondo
 
Are the sealer/primer/top coat all the same family of paint? I thought that generally speaking it was a good idea to take that approach to help prevent this sort of thing.

Bummer to hear of it, but at least it was immediate rather than something that happened after a couple of months.

Hang in there!
 
all the products I am and will be using are of the dupont family except the duplic color primer,(big mistake) and as far as I know there is nothing that will cover the duplic color primer and keep it from cracking the base coat. From what I have observed is when the base coat is applied it actually disolves the primer and migrates into them and as long as the chemicals are compatable you dont get cracking they just melt into each other, but when they are not compatable the top coat melts the primer but its like oil and water that dont mix so they separate and you get cracking

just my opinion, however In the future if I ever use a non family product I will waste 10 dollars of paint and time to see if there is an issue


Live learn repeat
HOndo
 
Hondo, check your PM

Wayne (give me time to get there)
 
Hey Hondo. Got caught up doing some painting of my own this weekend except it was the living room. Not exacley what I had in mind this week end but it looks good now. Sorry to hear about the painting problems. Keep us posted on what you find out.
 
Hopefully the DuPont paint shop will have an answer for you. As was mentioned earlier, this sort of incompatible paint problem was common when lacquer and enamel were the two main systems. Surely DuPont will have some form of coating you can spray to seal the Duplicolor without it affecting the top coat... and without having to go back to bare metal. Be sure to post back with what they say.
 
I just got finished speaking with the dupont person, and here is what I found out. There is no primer that Dupont makes that will stop the wrinkling effect due to incompatable products, so unless I know exactly where the duplicolor is and sand it off he thought my suggestion of spray a base coat on the car but no clear coat. Sand out all the spots where the wrinkles are and I should be good to go. As far as the pannels that are painted, Sand out the bad spots, Wet sand entire pannel again and reshoot. So thats the route I am going. but I am going to finish one part at a time. and ps the paint guy had problems shooting this past weekend too

Hondo
 
How frustrating. Went thru about the same experience when it was lacquer/enamel incompatibility. Swore to never mix diff'rent products again. I stayed with PPG. Now it's epoxy primers only and indicator coat with a mist of Krylon. That has been fine (so-far).

I hate doin' bodywork and so paint infrequently. When it comes time to do another I go to the paint supply house selling to local rodders and custom shops for advice on what's new and tested. Last one was this MGB and it came out acceptably well for a "driveway" re-do. All Valspar products this time.
 
Sounds like there is no other way, so I guess not much to do but get on with it. BTW - I wasn't being critical with the "keep it in the family" comment, I was just passing along what a local paint shop told me.

Personally, I'm expecting this exact sort of thing to happen when/if the time for paint ever comes around on mine since who knows what has been applied.

Again, sorry if any of my comments came across the wrong way. We're all pulling for you Hondo!
 
No offense taken, I knew to stay within the family of chemicals, but I didnt want to drive an hour round trip to pick up a spray can of primer so I went to the local auto parts store, read the label and it said "compatable with MOST topcoats" I should have sprayed a test pannel. I have sprayed Nason primer surfacer over the duplicolor with no problems so I thought it would be ok. But NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO. Another member has offered a solution, Barcoat a barrier product so I think I will take the offer, spray duplicolor on a piece of sheet metal, spray the barcoat, then topcoat and see if it helps, I am just afraid to add another paint manufacturer to the mix.
 
Be sure to let us know how the Barcoat works. If it is OK, are you planning on shooting the color coat on top of that or will you put down another coat of DuPont primer?
 
Hondo, sent you a PM with a phone number to a store in Charlotte. You just shoot right over the Barcoat, and it's made in England, they knew we would have trouble shooting over what I think is cellulose.
If that doesn't work for you, come and get mine.

Wayne
 
thanks Wayne, right now I will have to experiment with the barcoat, so get a pannel, spray the duplicrap, I mean duplicolor, then barcoat then another spot, duplicolor, primer surfacer then barcoat, then third spot duplicolor, primer surfacer, then sealer then barcoat,

and see how they all fair and use the one that works with the least amount of material, I did sand down the drivers door, metal etch and one coat of Primer surfacer, well at least the second time around it should go faster cause I got a lot of practice and I know where all the low spots are

Hondo
 
Hi Hondo,

If you test that barcoat stuff, I'd suggest that you let your test panel with the duplicolor/barcoat/primer surfacer/colorcoat/clear sit under a heat lamp for a while to see if it will peel off. Back in the 90's Chrysler used a water based primer. Had it on my truck, it was ok until I drove through Kamloops when it was like 110 degrees, and all the paint peeled off my truck due to the heat.

cheers.
 
will do, doenst look like I will be paint the actural car any time soon any how. the fenders and bonnet will have to sand all the way back down, so its only the boot, rear fenders, door jams and rear end thats not been painted yet

thanks

Hondo
 
Hondo -that wrinkling of the paint is called Alligatoring. And as you found out it is usually associated with 2 materials that don't like each other.
 
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