TR2/3/3A The oil dipstick levels when checking oil?

[karls59tr]

The first line or bottom on the dipstick would indicate a low oil level but anything over the top or second line would indicate an overfill situation? The reason I ask is the last time I changed the oil I overfilled the crankcase but figured it would be OK. Come to find out that the overfill caused a build up of pressure in the crankcase causing the oil pan seals to leak! I drained the oil back to the 2nd mark. Our cars are not like the engines on older American iron where a little overfill is harmless.

 

[TuffTR250]

Karl, here is what the Standard-Triumph "Practical hints for the Maintenance of the Triumph TR3, sixth edition" says about the oil and the dipstick:

"Every 250 miles check the oil level when the engine is cold, and top up if necessary. Withdraw dipstick (F) (Fig. 5) and wipe clean, then insert and push fully home before withdrawing for reading. The lower mark on the dipstick indicates that 4 pints (Imperial) of oil will be required for topping up. The regular addition of oil not only maintains the correct level, but also tends to keep up the quality of the lubricant. Replenishment is via the cap (D) which must be lifted straight off."
Bob

 

[CJD]

Remember that these cars are old and have gone through a lot in their live's. The dip stick may or may not be accurate. Karl, for the next oil change I would add 7 quarts, run it, and then check the level to see what it shows. You will then know what "full" is without any question about it.

That said, even over-full, your engine should not blow out all the seals. At worst case, it should leak oil faster than normal until the level lowers to "full"...then it will only leak the normal amount, LOL. Are you running the factory road draft system, or has your engine venting been modified? A crankshaft OEM scroll seal or a positive seal at the rear?

 

[TuffTR250]

My 1961 TR3A takes a maximum of 6 quarts of oil, with filter, to fill it to the top mark on the dipstick. i.e. 5 quarts then run the engine to fill the filter, and then put the 6th quart in to complete the fill. The Practical Hints booklet says the TR3 sump capacity is 12 US pints, That is 6 US quarts.
Bob

 

[CJD]

Aye, it does. 12pts drain and fill, 13.2 pts dry. But does that include the filter? I really do not know?!? It lists the filter as about 1pt, but is not specific whether it is included in the total. The range would be from 6qt to 7.1 qts, depending on those answers.

Both my TR2 and TR3A took 7 qts with filter change, and that amount put both cars just below the full mark. What are the rest of you owners doing??

 

[charleyf]

My best answer is 6&1/2 qt. with the filter change.
For those of you out there that have restored your cars here is a question.
Did you replace the fiber buffer located at the stop point where the dip stick rests against the engine? If so did you notice that those are about 1/4" thick. If you have not changed it out , how thick is your present one? The variable here is at least 1/4" and could be greater.
I decided that the best method for me was to put in the 6&1/2 qts. And then read the dip stick and use that mark as the full level.
Charley

 

[karls59tr]

Karl, here is what the Standard-Triumph "Practical hints for the Maintenance of the Triumph TR3, sixth edition" says about the oil and the dipstick:

"Every 250 miles check the oil level when the engine is cold, and top up if necessary. Withdraw dipstick (F) (Fig. 5) and wipe clean, then insert and push fully home before withdrawing for reading. The lower mark on the dipstick indicates that 4 pints (Imperial) of oil will be required for topping up. The regular addition of oil not only maintains the correct level, but also tends to keep up the quality of the lubricant. Replenishment is via the cap (D) which must be lifted straight off."

Karl, here is what the Standard-Triumph "Practical hints for the Maintenance of the Triumph TR3, sixth edition" says about the oil and the dipstick:

"Every 250 miles check the oil level when the engine is cold, and top up if necessary. Withdraw dipstick (F) (Fig. 5) and wipe clean, then insert and push fully home before withdrawing for reading. The lower mark on the dipstick indicates that 4 pints (Imperial) of oil will be required for topping up. The regular addition of oil not only maintains the correct level, but also tends to keep up the quality of the lubricant. Replenishment is via the cap (D) which must be lifted straight off."
Bob

It would seem that it takes way more than a quart of oil to bring the oil up to the top mark?

 

[karls59tr]

Remember that these cars are old and have gone through a lot in their live's. The dip stick may or may not be accurate. Karl, for the next oil change I would add 7 quarts, run it, and then check the level to see what it shows. You will then know what "full" is without any question about it.

That said, even over-full, your engine should not blow out all the seals. At worst case, it should leak oil faster than normal until the level lowers to "full"...then it will only leak the normal amount, LOL. Are you running the factory road draft system, or has your engine venting been modified? A crankshaft OEM scroll seal or a positive seal at the rear?

I am running the factory road draft system and did install a positive seal at the rear. The last time I changed the oil and filter I ended up with oil about 3/4"above the top mark. I should have drained it down to the top mark. According to AI an overfill can cause enough pressure to build up in the crankcase that it could cause leaks at the pan gasket but as you pointed out our cars have a road draft tube that would prevent that from happening. It just seems odd that a few years ago I did everything that was recommended when installing the pan gasket and it's leaking again. I think eventually they tend to leak anyway no matter how diligent you are on the install of the gasket.

 

[CJD]

Well, AI and I argue quite a bit. It is programmed to "guess" when it is not sure of an answer, and I find some of it's guesses to be way out in left field. Here is the deal with overfill:

If you overfill an older engine with a scroll seal at the rear, it will simple leak out of the scroll and all over you parking spot when the engine is stopped. Since you have a positive rear crank seal, overfilling would have to be rather severe, and then the issue is the crank hitting the oil in the pan, which would then cause foaming of the oil. If the foaming gets severe, it could run through the pump and bearings...and not lubricate nearly as well as straight oil. Again, I think this would take 2-3 quarts of overfill before it became a problem. And then...you will see oil leaking profusely out of your road draft tube.

AI is completely wrong about overfilling a TR3 causing the seals to blow out. In a Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PVC) vehicle that could happen. But, since the TR is a road draft, it cannot build up any pressure. Any pressure would immediately be relieved out of the valve cover vent or road draft tube.

Overfilling a modern car is bad. TR2's and 3's are self-fixing in the case of an overfill, as they will spit out the extra without hurting anything.

Take that AI!!