
Offline
Yeah, with some work on it, it looks better, but still not as wide a latitude WRT tonal range. As you said, no sky info. It was an obvious "expose for the shadows" choice. Actually did the meter read with the F-2 aimed at my palm in shadow. That will usually approximate 18% gray. Did run it thru GIMP and gave it a bit more contrast, but that was it.

Offline
Another thing is, the D7200 will couple with the AiS diaphragm and also allows me to hit an Fn button to see DoF preview. Pretty handy IMHO.
And as an aside to the Epson's accurate scan focus, this image was severely underexposed, almost "thin" enuff to blow thru. And a good example as to why you should always "clean yer plate." Dirt on the scanner or neg... but the point here is the grain in the T-Max 100 is in fact fairly apparent when "zoomed in" on the original scan:


And as an aside to the Epson's accurate scan focus, this image was severely underexposed, almost "thin" enuff to blow thru. And a good example as to why you should always "clean yer plate." Dirt on the scanner or neg... but the point here is the grain in the T-Max 100 is in fact fairly apparent when "zoomed in" on the original scan:



Offline
Glasses off, a -4 diopter correction eyepiece on all bodies. Used to be a -2, but since the retina surgeries things changed. Have a scleral buckle around the left orb. Can't use the right side, the replacement lens has moved out of alignment just before the CoV-2 BS started and correcting it was forestalled.
As you mention that, my thoughts go to the possibility the F2 ground glass may be out of sync with the film plane... have to check that.
Meantime, I'll put the last roll of T-Max in the FE and do the same shot and bumble around to shoot the rest so as to process it right away.
As you mention that, my thoughts go to the possibility the F2 ground glass may be out of sync with the film plane... have to check that.
Meantime, I'll put the last roll of T-Max in the FE and do the same shot and bumble around to shoot the rest so as to process it right away.
GregW
Yoda

Offline
The reason I ask is the focus on the cat seems off. Especially with the fiber on either the scanner glass or the neg itself seems sharper than the whiskers. I feel that the focus on my 610 with the stupid green dot is not very accurate. That was the main reason I installed a split focus screen. I think we talked about that in the past.

Offline
There would be small wonder the cat is out, whole frame seems soft. Likely due to low shutter speed and shake. But the magnified section seems to show grain is fuzzy too, the contamination likely on the scanner plate sharp as a tack. That's another reason to try a scan with the Pacific scanner or shoot the neg with bellows/macro.
We did go over the split screen change. I've not done anything about that, I seem to have no issue focusing manually with the digitals (evidenced by the street shot with one). I will tripod mount the F-2 with some tracing paper on the film plane and see if it matches point-of-focus with the viewfinder. Meanwhile the FE will have a roll of the T-Max run thru it and souped, likely today.
EDIT: Someplace along the way I've lost a glass microscope slide that was "frosted" on one side to use as a film plane surrogate for focus testing/checking. A loupe and well placed tracing paper will do, tho.
We did go over the split screen change. I've not done anything about that, I seem to have no issue focusing manually with the digitals (evidenced by the street shot with one). I will tripod mount the F-2 with some tracing paper on the film plane and see if it matches point-of-focus with the viewfinder. Meanwhile the FE will have a roll of the T-Max run thru it and souped, likely today.
EDIT: Someplace along the way I've lost a glass microscope slide that was "frosted" on one side to use as a film plane surrogate for focus testing/checking. A loupe and well placed tracing paper will do, tho.
GregW
Yoda

Offline
Never seen or heard of that. I'll have to investigate.EDIT: Someplace along the way I've lost a glass microscope slide that was "frosted" on one side to use as a film plane surrogate for focus testing/checking. A loupe and well placed tracing paper will do, tho.

Offline
Learned that as a kid (17-ish) working part-time in a Ma & Pa camera store, did some repair work there. A lot of leaf shutters and apertures cleared of oil or spring replacements, too.Never seen or heard of that. I'll have to investigate.
A funny aside: It was fairly common to have someone come into the store with a Pentax SLR, shutter stuck. Most times it was due to self-timer stopping part way from lack of use. Instead of a tear-down, once figured on nothing to lose and gave one a sharp rap flat on its base, onto the workbench... "bzzzzT"!!
After that it was: "Sir, if you love this camera you may want to step outside for a few minutes."