TR2/3/3A The Book!!!

[sp53]

I have not drilled out the fork and added the bolt, but many people do. I get the harder bolt and put that in place. Are you a 100% sure the fork bolt is not sheered? Clearly there is something wrong. Those bolts on the fork can look good until you take a really good look at the bolt; it has a long end to it. At any rate, I would at least replace the bolt with a newer hard one.

 

[James A Martin]

Thank You:
I'm sure youre correct and I will follow posts and any info I have dealing with adjustment of the clutch MC & slave cylinder rods.

 

[James A Martin]

sp53, Thanks,
The tapered square head bolt was pristine. I did have a 1/4" hole drilled through the fork and shaft and am installing a 1/4" Gr8 bolt just about equal distance from the center line of the fork as the original fork to shaft pln..

 

[sp53]

I can see the hydraulic problem now especially if the clutch pin is good. Everything jammed forward keep the clutch disengaged and when you push down on the pedal again that pushed everything more forward and ground the back of the forks. Not sure if it was out of adjustment or the MC stayed down having no spring probably did not help. Heck the clutch could probably world work fine maybe a little weaker where the metal was ground off. What the heck, you said it was old. The disk actually looks like ones I would see years ago with the black and white color.
steve

 

[James A Martin]

sp53,
Yes about the clutch, I already had it ordered before the hydraulics came to the forefront of the investigation. I'm OK with the new parts and the used ones will go in a special box. Like most projects on this lil car I usually get it right the third time... My special box stash is getting quite impressive....

 

[sp53]

Yeah, I have been paying for that education myself.